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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sorry if this is in the wrong place. If so movement would be appreciated :)

So far I have only replaced the bushings in the rear arms with the spring seats. I will update this once I get around to the toe-arms and cam-arms. The bushing kit that I bought says it is only for 00-04' Focus including SVT but the parts are the same from 00-11' so this should work on any Focus from 00-11'.

So here goes...

Job: Rear control arm bushing replacement. This should be pretty much the same on any Focus from 00-11'

Time required: 3-4 hours (leaving some time for paint to dry)

Tools: Lift (this is not something you want to do on jack stands unless you have no choice)
Wrenches/Sockets: 15mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm
Impact gun along with 15mm impact socket (will save lots of time if you have one)
Pry bars of various lengths
Cut-off wheel/Die-grinder with metal disc
Torch to heat up stuck bolts
Penetrating oil
6' tall jack stands or spring compressors if on a lift
3 jack stands if doing it on the ground. (1 with an adjustable head really helps) You should only need to jack up the rear end, just make sure to chock the front wheels so it doesn't roll away :)
2-ton shop press

Parts needed: 6S4Z*5K978*AA x2 $10.20 each (eccentric adjustment bolts)
*W500746*S439 x2 $4.95 each (shock bolts)
*W500744*S439 x8 $1.10 each (control/toe/cam arm bolts)(these are just the bolts. I also got a couple extra nuts but didn't need them since there's almost no rust on my car...yet....)Thanks Steve for your help on these :)
Prothane kit 6-2026. I bought it off Amazon for $177. This kit includes all bushings that prothane makes for the focus (coil spring isolators, rear control/toe/cam arms, front control arms, bump stops, etc...)
(optional)A good exterior paint (I got a Krylon paint made for farm implements which has a faster drying time and is supposed to hold up to the elements better).
(optional)Rustoleum primer
(optional)Sand paper

Experience level: Moderate?

Extra steps: You will definitely need an alignment when this is done.

One thing to note is that as of right now I do not have a rear sway bar so if you have one there will be a few extra steps to remove that as well which is pretty straightforward. Once I get my sway bar I will try and update this post.



How to:

Step 1:
Lift the car in the air as high as you can and remove the rear wheels. I used a lift which makes the job so much easier since you don't have to try and work with the car 2' off the ground.

Step 2:
Identify the bolts you will be removing (identified in red)


Step 3:
Secure the control arm with a jack-stand. I used tall stands since I was on a lift but you could also do this with a regular stand on the ground or use a spring compressor tool to compress the spring so when you take the bolts off the arm doesn't come crashing out and hurt you.


Step 4:
I would suggest removing the lower shock bolt so that the spindle and brake assembly move more freely to allow you to get the arm out more easily. (shock bolts should be 15mm)



Step 5:
Take out the outer bolt (should be a 15mm) (using and impact gun is easiest and quickest) This is where the fun begins.... If your car has a lot of rust you may need to use heat/penetrating oil or cut the bolts to get the arms out. The bolts like to seize to the inside sleeve of the bushing so that they won't want to come out. If this is the case just get out your cut-off wheel and cut both sides of the bolt and the arm will come free (might need a little persuasion). Just make sure you have the jack-stand underneath so that the spring doesn't propel the arm down and hurt you when the bolt is cut loose.

Step 6:
Once the outer bolt is out move to the other side and repeat steps 3-5. Once that is done both arms should look like the one on the right in the picture.


Step 7:
Now remove the eccentric bolts from the inner arm. The nut should be 18mm and the bolt head is either 19mm or 21mm I can't remember for sure. The nut is on the rear side of the subframe. After removing the nut and the eccentric washer you should be able to pound out the bolt. If not go ahead and cut these too, that's why you buy the replacements. I did have to cut 1 out because the bolt was seized to the inner metal sleeve of the bushing. You will see in the picture I nicked the subframe a little when cutting.
The rear end should look like this now...


Step 8:
Your arms should look like this when they are out.


You want to make sure you keep track of which bushings you are taking out and match them up with the new ones. The bushings are not the same on either end of the arm. The bushings closes to the spring seat are shorter and have a bigger circumference. The bushings on the long end of the arm are longer and have a lesser circumference. You can sort of tell from the picture.


You have to press out the old bushings. This was the hardest part since I had to use sockets and other things to use as press cones since I didn't have the right size. Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the pressing process. I was so frustrated and needed extra hands as it was. Just be careful not to bend up the arms too much when pressing. I had to use a spacer to keep the 2 halves of the arm from crushing while I was pressing the old bushings out. If they get bent use a vice and a pry-bar or some pliers to get them straightened back out as much as possible. Otherwise when you go to put the new bushings in they won't line up properly and you will have a very hard time pressing the new bushings in.

Step 9 (optional):
My arms were starting to get a bit of rust on them so I decided to sand, prime, and paint them to hopefully give them some more life. You can also paint after pressing the new bushings in but then you have to tape off the bushings so they don't get primer or paint in them. If you paint before pressing you just have to be careful not to scratch them up, then you'll have to touch up after the pressing is done. The krylon paint I used supposedly dries in 15 minutes but I let mine dry for about an hour just to be safe. I only ended up with a couple small scratches in the paint which I touched up after the arms were installed. Make sure to remove your bump stops before painting. They just pop off with a little bit of pulling and twisting.



Step 10:
Prep the new bushings. You have to take the prothane bushings apart to grease them before installation.

a. press out the center sleve
b. pull out the poly inserts from the outer sleeve with your hands. They will come out in 2 halves.

The picture should give you an idea of what they look like torn down. I had already pressed the outer sleeves into the arms but the other pieces are there.


Step 11:
Press the outer sleeves into the arms. Should look like this when done. MAKE SURE THAT THE SLEEVES ARE CENTERED IN THE ARMS.



Step 12:
Put a line of the provided grease into the outer sleeve before putting the poly inserts back in.


Also grease the outside of the poly inserts before insertion.


Press the poly inserts into the outer sleeves by hand. Turn the inserts while pressing to get the grease to spread evenly inside the outer sleeve.

Your arms should now look like this...


Step 13:
Spread a line of grease on the inner sleeve and start it in the bushing. You will likely have to use the press to press the inner sleeves in.




Once the pressing is complete your arms should look like this...


Step 14:
Now time to put everything back together. Slide the long end of the arm into place and secure it with the eccentric bolt and washer. Go ahead and do both sides at the same time.


Step 15 (optional):
If you bought the complete kit replace your old rubber coil spring isolators now. Make sure the spring is seated in the groove.


Step 16:
Place the spring up into the upper spring seat, then lift the arm into place and set a jack-stand under it to hold it in place while you get ready to move it back into place and bolt it in. Put a rag on the head of the stand so you don't mar your new paint.


Step 17:
Move the arm into place and bolt it in. It usually helps to have a second person maneuver the brakes/spindle assembly while you move the arm into place. Once it is bolted back in put your bump stops back on as well. If you get the whole prothane kit it will come with new bump stops which just pop on.


Step 18:
Reattach your lower shock bolts and tighten.


Step 19:
Go get an alignment right away.

Here are a couple pics of the finished product.



Hopefully this helps some of you who either have bad bushings or just want to replace them to have a stiffer suspension setup. Hopefully I didn't miss anything major. If there are any questions I'd be happy to answer them.
 

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Good write up.

A tip for step 16. Remove the camber arm and you can then get the lower arm back in place with ease. It will allow for enough room to fit the spring back in by hand with out the need for a jack.
 

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well, now this REALLY makes me wonder what the hell I bought off another member. Thanks for such detailed pics....I purchased "rear trailing arm prothane kit" off another member, and upon removing my trailing arms realized that was NOT what they fit...I thought maybe he meant rear control arms....but seeing yours, I now know it's definitely NOT those either. GREAT, I've been shafted.
 

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The trailing arm bushings are on the arm that his drum is attached to. If you look under the car you will see a small rod with two bolts that hold it to the frame. You will need to burn out that bushing and reuse the rod when you press in the new one. Best to do the whole rear end when going for it. Plus its a great time to put on some braided brake lines since you have to disconnect them anyways to remove the arm.
 

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well, now this REALLY makes me wonder what the hell I bought off another member. Thanks for such detailed pics....I purchased "rear trailing arm prothane kit" off another member, and upon removing my trailing arms realized that was NOT what they fit...I thought maybe he meant rear control arms....but seeing yours, I now know it's definitely NOT those either. GREAT, I've been shafted.
no you just havent. You just didnt know what you were buying.... but do the trailing arms those were not too bad you will need to burn out the rubber though and reuse the bow-tie to bolt it back down.

and you dont need to undo the brakes just un do the 4 bolts holding on the hub/ + speed sensor for ABS if you have it and the trailing arm will drop down
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, now this REALLY makes me wonder what the hell I bought off another member. Thanks for such detailed pics....I purchased "rear trailing arm prothane kit" off another member, and upon removing my trailing arms realized that was NOT what they fit...I thought maybe he meant rear control arms....but seeing yours, I now know it's definitely NOT those either. GREAT, I've been shafted.
Do you have pics of the bushings or P/N's? In the kit I bought everything is separated out into sections and is marked by P/N and with a description. I might be able to match it up to mine? Or if you take measurements I could probably match them up that way too...
 

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Still have the box from cfm for the trailing arms. PN 6-308-BL and stamped on the bushing was 64263
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is that the prothane or the cfm part number?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When I get a chance I'll try and compare to the box I have...
 
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