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Discussion Starter #1
I was in the process of installing my Crower stage 2's and some Fidanza cam gears. I had everything put back together except the valve cover so i could turn the motor and see that everything was working. When i turned the crank pulley the only thing that was moving were the 1st set of lobes on both cams. When i took a closer look I freakin cracked both cams in half right before the 3rd camshaft cap. Now the only thing i could narrow down to what i did that could of caused it is when I did the tightening sequence for them. I noticed that they didnt sit in there without having to push them but when i tightened them i went by the write up on FocusHacks.com. My question is that should I of screwed the caps on one by one or put them all on at once and then torque them down in the sequence. I have the cam gears on so it wasnt a total waste but now my car is idling a little rough. With some tuning will i be able to get rid of this. Thanks.
 

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OK, I am assuming that you removed the broken cams, else, well....I won't even go there.

If you are using the Cam Gears with the prior stock cams, try and retard the intake cam a few (3-4) degress and see if you idle/run smooths out. Mine did, and by the ol' "Butt Dyno" it improved the performance as well.

The actual correct recommendation would be to dyno and adjust the gears, but hey, I can't be driving 200 miles for a dyno.
 

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OK poSSumX, I'll say it. Just for clarification, you took the cam gears off the "broken" cams and put them back on the stock cams and it's idling rough now..........? Hard to imagine you could break/crack the cams.


[ 10-11-2002, 07:43 PM: Message edited by: FocusBoy ]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Listen, im not that much of a retard. Of course i put my stock cams back in and I put the aftermarket cam gears on those. I have a rough idle now and i wanted to know if that can be cured when I tune the gears. From what the instructions said its a 2 stage tightening process but i guess i didnt follow it right.
 

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I just read those last night, it's a little deceiving, here's a quote:

Tighten the bolts of the camshaft bearing caps.
A. Stage 1: 89 in/lb
B. Stage 2: 14 ft/lb

You'll notice the first one is in/lb, not the more often seen ft/lb. I bet you did these to 89 ft/lb on the first stage huh?

Either way, sucks, sorry to hear.
 

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Originally posted by whiskeytangofoxtrot:
I just read those last night, it's a little deceiving, here's a quote:

Tighten the bolts of the camshaft bearing caps.
A. Stage 1: 89 in/lb
B. Stage 2: 14 ft/lb

You'll notice the first one is in/lb, not the more often seen ft/lb. I bet you did these to 89 ft/lb on the first stage huh?

Either way, sucks, sorry to hear.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Is it correct to assume that you can divide in/lb by 12 to get ft/lbs?
 

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Here's a quote from a conversion site:

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

From this site: Here

[ 10-12-2002, 01:57 AM: Message edited by: whiskeytangofoxtrot ]
 

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in lbs / 12 = lb ft
lb ft * 12 = in lbs

not that hard
 

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When you lay the cams in they arent going to lay flat. Some of the springs will need to be compressed where ever there is a cam lobe in the opening position. If you torque one side down while the opposed end needs to compress springs it will place the cam in a bind and snap. After you place the cams in install the caps evenly tihghtening them one by one back and forth, (A LITTLE AT A TIME) keeping the cam straight. Once all the caps are seated to the head all the way across then use the torque sequence.

[ 10-12-2002, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: bugshack ]
 

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the only thing i can say is.....that really ****ing sucks....wow...i cant even imagine it.
 

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Originally posted by Vegeta:
Listen, im not that much of a retard. Of course i put my stock cams back in and I put the aftermarket cam gears on those. I have a rough idle now and i wanted to know if that can be cured when I tune the gears.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">LOL
Tooo much, I really didn't think you lefty the busted ones on, but some people...ya know.

Anyhow, adjusting the gears can improve your idle. I know, mine idle like **** when at TDC, however my intake is now retarded to -4 (STR Cam Gears) and it is smooooth....like butter. And it pulls like a bitch as well.
 

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A ziptie across the broken cam will fix that right up...

wow..that sucks!Did you get your idle fixed?Also did you use the stock timing belt or did you replace that?
 

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What a waste....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Actually, it wasnt that much a waste cause I got the cams for free. Ive adjusted the cams so the idle is smooth but ive got to get to a dyno because I lost power when I take off. In 1st its alright but when I shift to 2nd it bogs just a bit. At least I know how to do it if I decide to get them again. I didnt change the timing belt cause I only have 8700mi on the car but im thinking if i do it again i may have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
See thats what got me, i did torque them down right and I did it in in/lb then ft/lb but i believe that they cracked cause i did each cap one at a time instead of putting them on all at once and then tightening them down even. I heard the cam pop but i though it was just settling into place cause it was such a clean brake that i didnt even notice it untill i turned the crank to make sure everything was working. Well ill just mark this one up to experience. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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