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I need your help...euro rear.

1K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  RUN_ZX3  
#1 ·
I have an ST 170 bumper cover, rebar, and foam. The body shop said that they could not get the rebar and foam to fit under the cover after trying numerous times.They said that it caused the bumper to bulge excessivey and just wouldnt fit right. I find this hard to believe. I also noticed that they did not trim those "triangle: shaped edges of the body that the euro cars do not have next to where the rebar mounts. I think that may be part of the issue. I am going to give it a week to allow the paint to cure some more and pull the bumper off and try to fit everything under there.

I belive the rebar and foam I have are from a car with the euro 98 bumper. Does anyone know if the ST foam and rebar are different? I don't believe they are but maybe that's the problem?

I paid for all of the stuff I needed to do this right so I want it all installed. It makes me realy nervous driving around with just a bumper cover in the rear.

Pics will be appreciated!!!!....anything, even just stock with no bumper cover installed would help.
 
#2 ·
did they remove na spec reinforcement bar before try to fit euro re bar??

if they tried to put euro rebar right onto na rebar, then they should stop their business..


EDIT*
they have to trim something??then i am pretty sure they put euro rebar right onto na rebar..
go back there and tell them to remove na spec rebar..
 
#3 ·
focusonfocus said:
did they remove na spec reinforcement bar before try to fit euro re bar??

if they tried to put euro rebar right onto na rebar, then they should stop their business..


EDIT*
they have to trim something??then i am pretty sure they put euro rebar right onto na rebar..
go back there and tell them to remove na spec rebar..

I was referring to the lower left corner and the parts that protrude next to where the us rebar mounts in this thread. http://forums.focaljet.com/exterior...ions/491756-help-problems-installing-euro-bumper.html?highlight=rear+euro+rebar

I think I have figured out what needs to be done and hopefully I can get this done this coming weekend. I am still looking for pics of a successful install for reference.
 
#4 ·
That how too link you posted there. I believe that will only work if you AREN'T using the foam, as the foam sits above the rebar. With my rebar and foam in place, the euro rebar sits almost directly overtop of the two frame holes.

I just spent a day drilling holes and shaving metal to get my ST170 bumper to sit correctly, but it looks great now. I'll snap some pics when I get home from work (I can pull it all apart easy as I only did a test fit) of the work that I did and where I drilled the holes.

The how too IS correct however in that you do need to cut off that little triangle of metal to get the bumper to fit. I tried with it still there and it pushes the passenger side of the bumper cover out enough that you can't get the bolts in the holes just behind the rear wheels.
 
#5 ·
Just to be on the side of the body shop, they probably didn't want to remove the na spec reinforcments. Removing/altering crash/safety component(s) could get them in trouble, espcially if someone was severly hurt/killed and they could link it to the component being altered or removed by them.
 
#6 ·
^^^What Omega said.

Remove N/A spec rebar, mock up euro rebar, drill holes. Good to go :thumbup: Had one on my last car, i miss it :(
 
#7 ·
Omega Anomaly said:
Just to be on the side of the body shop, they probably didn't want to remove the na spec reinforcments. Removing/altering crash/safety component(s) could get them in trouble, espcially if someone was severly hurt/killed and they could link it to the component being altered or removed by them.
dude, they removed everything and returned the car with no rebar or foam installed. they left the euro rebar and foam in my hatch and said they tried numerous times and didnt get it to fit. the NA bar doesn't fit behind a euro bumper so that isnt installed either.

I am bringing it back in on Friday to get it taken care of. So pictures will help.
 
#8 ·
slipster17 said:
That how too link you posted there. I believe that will only work if you AREN'T using the foam, as the foam sits above the rebar. With my rebar and foam in place, the euro rebar sits almost directly overtop of the two frame holes.

I just spent a day drilling holes and shaving metal to get my ST170 bumper to sit correctly, but it looks great now. I'll snap some pics when I get home from work (I can pull it all apart easy as I only did a test fit) of the work that I did and where I drilled the holes.

The how too IS correct however in that you do need to cut off that little triangle of metal to get the bumper to fit. I tried with it still there and it pushes the passenger side of the bumper cover out enough that you can't get the bolts in the holes just behind the rear wheels.
Pleaseeeeeee on the pics!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#9 ·
oh and in that how-to isn't the rebar upside down? does the side with the 3 holes in the rebar itself (not the bracket) face up or down?
 
#10 ·
Is this the front or rear? For the rear, the rebar has to be taken out and either welded to the frame or tapped and bolted to the frame. The foam will sit on the rebar. As for the front, your options is chopping off the corners of the US bar or getting the euro rebar which is curved more than the US one and protrudes less.
 
#11 ·
screwdiver said:
Is this the front or rear? For the rear, the rebar has to be taken out and either welded to the frame or tapped and bolted to the frame. The foam will sit on the rebar. As for the front, your options is chopping off the corners of the US bar or getting the euro rebar which is curved more than the US one and protrudes less.
this the rear.


the front is fine. only needed to trim a small section about 2''x6'' from the bottom of the rebar on each side to clear the fog light buckets on the ST170 bumper. I didn't have to dig into the corners since the ST bumper does not have indicator sockets to clear
 
#13 · (Edited)
Ok, so here are the steps that I took to get it all to fit. I doesn't look too pretty without the bumper cover, lol, but it gets the job done.

Step one;
Rip apart the back of your car. With a breaker bar and good enough socket set you can unbolt everything.
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Step two;
Check for fitting on the euro rebar and mark for holes to drill. First you'll need to either cut off, or bend backwards (like I did) the little metal lips that were at the sides of the NA Spec rebar. You don't have to bend it back much, as the euro rebar ALMOST snugs right in between them.
What I found to be the best placement for the new euro rebar was to set it just above the two bottom bolts that had once held the NA Spec rebar, centered between the two metal lips you bent back. This should place the ends of the euro rebar so that they cover the big sqaure frame holes.
I only drilled new holes in two places because that third hole would be awkwardly placed against the subframe. The bottom holes are easy enough as they go right through the peice of metal that held the NA Spec rebar (make sure to use some lock washers on the bolts you put through). The top holes were a little tricky as they go through a thicker piece of metal into the trunk area and emerge just above the trunk floor. You may have to remove the side carpetting to push the bolts through these holes. Again, use some lock washers on the inside so you don't have to hold the one end of the bolt while you tighten it.
And, as shown in the second picture, you will need to hacksaw off a little corner of the metal on the passenger side so that it allows the new bumper cover to sit properly.
All the bolts that held the NA Spec rebar can be left where they are and do not effect the fitment of the new foam or bumper cover. You can just push the foam onto the top bolts and it will bury them inside itself.
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Step three;
You can hang the euro bumper foam onto two of the existing bolts. There is the little metal lip, just below the hatch door, which the panel retainers for the top of the bumper go into. If you remove the nuts at either end, you can slip the hanger on both sides of the euro foam onto the bolts and then put the nuts back on. Not sure if this is how it is supposed to be done, but it looks like it was meant to fit there.
Word of warning though, the bumper cover is REALLY tight across the foam there and I went and shaved about 1/2 an inch off the whole front of the foam to allow a better fit.
Ignore the pencils holding the ends of my bumper foam, lol, it was damaged in shipping and I epoxied those make-shift braces in on both side to hold it where it needs to be.
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Step four;
Make sure to slip the bumper cover on for a test fit before bolting anything in place. I got a little too anxious and bolted stuff up every time I tried fitting it and ended up having one of the bolts behind the rear wheel break off of the bumper plastic on me. Granted, it wasn't secured on there very well in the first place, but I still almost crapped myself when I though I had ruined the bumper cover. All fixed with epoxy now and I'm pretty sure more secure then it was originally :thumbup:
If the holes in the top of the bumper cover don't line up well with the holes for the retainers, take the cover off and shave a little more off the top edge of the foam.
But when everything is in the right place, the result is beauty :D
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Step five;
Wire up your lights to make sure they all work properly
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Then take it back apart and send it off to paint!

Hope that helps you out, Bro. I'll post some pics early next week probably when I get this all painted up and back on for good
:rock:

-Slip