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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay, I have no illusions that my build even shows up on the Richter Scale of Horsepower that is the FI section of FJ, but here goes!

Every so often I have a couple new pics to share, and rather than continuing to pollute somebody else's thread in the future, I'll post them here.

For the record, I have a 2002 ZX3 that has had a PWSC on it for about three or four years. I really can't remember exactly, and I'm not motivated enough to look it up. I got it during the Great Sell Off, however long ago that was. The kit itself has been great, trouble free and well put together for the price point. A few things have been upgraded, like the CFM throttle body and the intercooler coolant tank.

I blew the first motor putting the car on a trailer, after I got a little frisky coming off a stop light against a Hemi Charger that thought he'd show the little Focus who was boss! I got a nice rod knock for my trouble. Talk about winning the battle but losing the war! The car had had a vibration from the time I got it, and the resulting rod knock showed where that vibration had been coming from. After I drove it far enough for the oil light to come on, I looked on the U-Haul website, saw a nice low-slung aluminum trailer and called and rented it. When I picked it up, however, it was a steel thing that normally hauled a Bobcat. My car was low enough it kept getting hung up, and I got pissed and revved it to get it on the trailer. Well, when the pistons and rods ended up on the parking lot, and the car started on fire, I knew it was bad!

I contemplated whether I was obligated to put the fire out, and my friend with me said "you know what's going to happen, it's going to burn just enough to **** up the wiring harness." He had no sooner said that when the air conditioning lines melted through, and the refrigerant put out the fire. All the wires were melted, amongst other things. The only thing that worked in my favor was that the insurance company ruled that while they wouldn't cover the engine failure, the fire was covered. I can tell you that the engine wiring harnesses are worth $550+. The insurance payment allowed me to upgrade the clutch, amongst other things.

When I replaced the long block with a junkyard motor, tada! the vibration was gone!~ Of course, nothing comes without a cost. Guess what happens when you replace your engine in a manual trans car with one from an auto? Well, if you don't know about the crank position sensor bracket, you get no spark and have to pull the transmission, clutch, and flywheel AGAIN! Live and learn.

As it is my DD, I've been much kinder to this motor ever since. I know there's more left on the table, but I've been shifting at 6k to keep it together. I'm building a new motor, and I'm trying to build it so that no matter what I do in the future, this motor can stand up to it.

It's been an education. Dummy me, I ordered pistons in the first oversize, then only afterward realized that the SVT block I had obtained needed a .020" (second) oversize. Doh! So, I got another zetec block to build, and have TWO SVT blocks in my garage that both need a .020" overbore (PM me if you want one!) I couldn't afford to spend another $640 on pistons in the .020" oversize, just to keep the SVT oil squirters.

I also have a Quaife diff in my trans, that I scored cheap when it was listed only as a Cougar part on ebay. $350, woohoo! I put in the diff, then had the only Ford dealer in the area that does their own tranny work set the backlash/preload and seal it back up. I had a CM3 clutch for awhile, and despite a careful break-in, it still began slipping in short order. The Luk Pro Gold I got from FSW solved that, it is awesome! I personally didn't enjoy the Fidanza light flywheel, and put the stocker back in when I switched to the LPG.

So here I am now, with JE forged turbo pistons that were custom made with no dish to make them flat top, along with 22mm wrist pin bores to fit the Cosworth WRC rods that I got for a really nice price because of the odd wrist pin size. The only problem now is that with those two parts together, the pistons are .068" down the bore at the stock deck height, which brings my calculated compression ratio down to 8.8:1. I'm taking the short block apart and having it decked .070" to bring the compression back up to the 10.2:1 I wanted in the first place, without placing any piston domes in the flame path or losing the thick-top FI piston construction.


The jewel-like piston and rod combo!


Here's what the short block looked like before being decked.

I just got a set of Ishihara-Johnson crank scrapers, grabs clinging oil off of the crank.


I've also got a CFM billet oil pump, so I can spin this thing to 8400rpm (basically the piston speed limit) without worrying about the rods breaking and the oil pump gears exploding! Did I mention ARP main and head studs, and flywheel bolts!

All of which is terribly overkill for a PWSC, I get that. Some of it is just me finally being able to afford some of the trick parts I couldn't have as a kid. Some of it is just so that when I like 290-300whp, I won't have to re-do the motor when I want to go 350-400whp! Or 400-450whp with a 3582!

Enough for now. This won't be a daily-updated thread, just thought I should start contributing.

Denny
 

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My only concern is the HG what thickness are you thinking of going with? you need at least .030" piston to head clearance. So if your piston pokes .001" and you use a zetec hg at .027" you wont have enough clearance. I would also add another .005" because you are planning on reving the motor out so much just to give a little more peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jared. That was one of my concerns, and I've read different opinions on squish, but most agree that .020-.050 is the operating range to shoot for. With the .027" of the stock zetec gasket, I was thinking .000-+.007" was the deck height to shoot for. I have .096" at present, and I've read that after .055" squish you can increase detonation even with the compression ratio being lower.

That, and I can always increase head gasket thickness pretty easily to adjust squish and drop compression. An SVT head gasket drops me to 9.88:1 compression and maintains a .038" squish if necessary.

I appreciate any feedback, I'm operating from theory here, and don't have the experience that many of you do. In theory, as little squish as possible before contact is the best; do we have any real world feedback on what clearance resulted in contact?

Denny
 

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My machine shop said that much because at high rpms the rod will actually stretch further decreasing the space. What did you set your ring end gap to? If you plan on eventually going with a turbo, you need to open that up as well. Mine are like .030" on the top ring and .034: on the lower ring and the motor does not smoke and consumes no oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Jared, I'll check. Honestly, when I had the bores honed, I just gave them the parts and said "here', do it like the directions say. I will check and adjust, live and learn.

I don't remember off the top of my head, but someone on here was running .017" squish, meaning .010" out of the bore at TDC, without contact. I can believe it, I don't think these WRC rods are going to stretch even .001 at a measly 8500 rpms!

Denny
 

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It's not a "lowly build" to me. The more I read, the more I learn. A boy can dream...of 10.2 compression! :)

--Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Scott!

My original goal was to get ALL the parts I've wanted and do it once; Massive Ultimate head, put in my set of Mitch's PWSC cams, custom tuning, etc.

However, my son has had his heart set on going to the local Catholic military high school (I didn't know the Pope had an Army!) for years, and he started this week. He eventually wants to go to Annapolis and the USMC, so I think it's a wise investment in his future. The extra dollars to my ex to help with the school tuition (on top of the child support) was my car part slush fund.

I'm going to get the short block together with a stock head and cams, and then see if I can afford a 2 1/2"-3" exhaust to go along with the Kamikaze header. I'm going to have to live with the stock tune for now, and keep an eye on the AFR and pyro gauges.

I've got four more years of child support/alimony to go. After that, I'm going to have to think of sh*t to buy with all the money I'm not used to having!

Denny
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dropped off the block to be decked at the machine shop. The machinist says he's never taken that much material (.068") off one of these, so he's in uncharted territory. Calculator says that with -.004" deck, I'm looking at 9.99:1. I have to re-cc my head since it was skimmed to check the chamber volumes again. A 1cc difference will bring it back to 10.16:1.

Here goes nothin'! Hey, hold my beer and watch this!

Denny
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Good News! The block is done! Bad news! The original quote of $120 has gone up to $285! That sucks!

On a better note, I finally got my Ishihara-Johnson crank scrapers:

 

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Discussion Starter #10
My machine shop said that much because at high rpms the rod will actually stretch further decreasing the space. What did you set your ring end gap to? If you plan on eventually going with a turbo, you need to open that up as well. Mine are like .030" on the top ring and .034: on the lower ring and the motor does not smoke and consumes no oil.
Jared, I just had a chance to check the specs from JE on the ring gaps. They are saying moderate blown/turbo use .005" on the top ring for every inch of bore, and .0055 on the second ring. That would net me .017" on the top and .019" on the second ring.

The biggest gap they spec is a race nitrous motor with .007/.0065 per inch, top and 2nd. Even those larger numbers would only give me a ring gap of .023" on the top ring and .022" on the second. Did you set yours up at .030 and .034 just so nothing could possibly go wrong at super-high HP? I'm never going to have 500hp, and I'd hate to have a oil burner two years down the line. I know you said you are not burning oil, but how many miles do you have on that long block?

On a related note, what's the recommended technique for filing the ring gaps? Needle files? I can't afford the Manley $90 tool to do this once. My rings were tight even for the tighter spec that JE gives for a street blown/turbo engine. I've got .014" on top, and they call for .017".

Thank you, by the way, for making me check that! :thumbup:

Denny
 

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The Guy I use for my machine work told me to go that big. He really knows his ****, he built the engines in the boat that held the water speed record for a monohull for 10 years and has done some n/a Ford small blocks doing 800-900 HP. He is also the one who told me to keep the piston to head clearance at least .030" He has never steered me wrong before.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, I'm all for real world experience over untested theory. Better to have a little extra blowby than for the ring ends to touch under high heat/load.

I brought my uncalibrated depth gauge to the machinist with what it read to the middle of the piston crown, and it was a true .072" sticking out. He took off .068" from the deck, so with the .004" below the deck piston height I should have now, and a zetec head gasket crushed thickness of .027", I should have .031" squish.

I want to clay the piston, assemble it with the head, roll it over and then measure the actual clearance, but I hate to waste a $50 head gasket. Can it be reused if it wasn't fired up? Do I not torque it to full value, measure the uncrushed thickness and take that off the thickness of the clay? Or am I simply going to have to use up two head gaskets to make sure it's done right? After finding those tight ring gaps, I'm not much for assuming anything anymore.
 

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It can be reused as long as the motor does not heat cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Awesome, thanks Jared! One of the things I love about FJ is the sharing of information and experiences. I have little desire to reinvent the wheel if I don't have to!

Denny
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow, tried filing the end gaps by hand, with a file locked in a vise. After several minutes of filing, I removed exactly .002". Only .014" to go, and that's only the first ring. Looks like I'm buying that ring filing tool, unless someone has one they want to rent to me.
 

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Even with the little hand crank tool it s not a quick process. Make sure that they are nice and square too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the ring filer, and my experience is check often! It removes material in a hurry! I've got the top and second on the first cylinder to .030 and .034, have to check the JE website for the oil ring rail gap. Jared, do you know if that was altered from the stock specs too?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay, JE said a .015" minimum, so I just made sure it was above that.

The ring filing was an education! Boy, that second ring files down waaaaaaaayyyyyyy faster than the top ring.:rolleyes: Gotta order one, was out to .040" on the second cylinder before I knew it! Live and learn.

If anyone else needs to use the ring filer, I'll loan it out for the cost of shipping after I get my new ring and fit it.

Denny
 
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