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Discussion Starter #121
I hear you, I nearly went that route too. The choice was a $2000 with 120k miles on it, and have to do some repair, or a $5000 car that had 70k and was okay to drive, and drain my savings but have no payment, or go with a 2 year old car with 25k miles and have the best car I've had in ages, but have a car payment again.

My wife put her foot down, said no more ****boxes, you deserve a nice car, and the Focus is already a project! Got to admit when she's right, and it has been REALLY nice to drive a basically new car for a change!

Just so I have some Focus content here, here's a pic of the manifold now that I've figured out everything that needs a vacuum/pressure source, and the hose barb size they need! Hope to get this mounted this weekend, then figure out where my piping needs tweaking.

Whoops, just noticed I labeled the bottom fitting "WG" for waste gate, when what I meant was BOV!


 

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Discussion Starter #122
Something just occurred to me as I was hooking up the vacuum lines onto the intake manifold. The PWSC I had previously had all the vacuum lines run to the neck before the blower, so none of them ever saw any boost. Now that I'm going turbo, EVERYTHING sees boost. The brake booster line has a one way valve in it, but that's it. I'm assuming I should put some one way valves in the vapor management lines, correct? How about the fuel rail pressure sensor, can it cope with boost?

Should I use brake booster line one-way valves, or does anyone have any other suggestions?
Denny
 

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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Got all of the vacuum/boost lines hooked up on the IM, still don't have any one-way valves on the Vapor Management Valve outlets (I think one is the sensor that opens a valve for the larger line, which I believe actually vents fuel tank vapor via the charcoal canister to the IM). Just put together the remote IAC, and realized I don't have the fittings for the socketless hose to mount on the -10 outlets on the IM and the IC piping, so I'll be ordering those on Monday.

In the "Can't Anything Be Easy" Department, I've misplaced the throttle cable bracket that came with the Jay Racing intake manifold. Here's to hoping I stumble across it, as I can't imagine this is something that they or anyone else stocks. I did find their website, and while the Zetec manifold is still on there, it says it is sold out. I left an email asking if I could get a throttle cable bracket, we'll see if I get any response.

In other news, I mounted the IAC onto the remote plate I got from Chaz, and had socketless -10 hose barbs welded on.

 

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
Found the JR throttle cable bracket! Yay! Now the problem is, the cables don't reach! I got a stock bracket from Karl at Massive, as that was used with the CFM 65mm throttle body on the PWSC. That solved my current cable problem, I'm assuming that the supplied bracket was for whatever other throttle body the manifold is drilled for. I sent an email to Jay Racing, but haven't received a reply.

I'm hoping it's used with a Mustang TB that has an integral IAC. If I upgrade to a GTX 3076, I'll see if that is true and go up in TB too.

 

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Discussion Starter #126
Man thats a lot of vaccum bungs LOL.
Yeah it is! This is FocalJet, nothing succeeds like excess!

I figured I'd put in as many as fit, just in case. As it is, I'm probably not going to need the BAP pressure switch, so I'll have two spares. Who knows, maybe I'll want water/meth injection at some point, this way I already have two ports for it!
 

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Discussion Starter #127
My welder came over today to scope out what changes I need on my intake piping and my downpipe to get everything to play nice together. Also discovered that I didn't realize the mounting flange I have for my blowoff valve is stainless steel, and my piping is aluminum! Doh! Ordered an aluminum flange from Summit, too late for this round of fabrication!

Still need to drop the oil pan to have the temp bung welded in, and am in the process of wiring in a couple more gauges along with the eBoost2. Figured while I'm at it, I would get all the gauges from the same Autometer series, so I'll have a couple Phantom gauges for sale soon (pyromter and oil pressure.) As it is now, I'll have AEM AFR, pyrometer and boost on the pillar (already had the Phantom II vac/boost gauge from when I was running the PWSC, so I'm going to keep it, even if it is redundant with the eBoost2), I think the eBoost2 is going in the coin tray area on the bezel, and above the glove box I now have oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp. Pics to follow!
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Does anyone know if the eBoost2 needs the Ford Racing Tach Adapter in order to run the yellow wire to an RPM signal wire? I have the FRPP Tach Adapter, just wondering if that is the correct wiring, or if it should be done another way. I don't have the tach adapter instructions, only the eBoost2 generic instructions to link the yellow to an ECU RPM signal or the ground of a coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
This looks bad, but it's not. I had put in a couple distribution blocks for ground, ignition switched power, and gauge lighting switched off the parking lights. I'm moving one gauge and adding three others, this is how it looked while I was fishing the new wire loom (two grounds per gauge, power to the lighting, power for the sender, and sender input for each of three gauges, 15 wires!) behind the dash to the area above the glove box.



Here's the wires divided amongst the three gauge mounting holes. I'm using the Autometer angled adapters, to get them facing me as much as possible. I used a 2" hole saw for the initial cut, then filed them so they would turn toward the driver.



I'm a fan of the Phantom II gauge series from Autometer. During the day, it's classic black numbers on white background.



When the lights come on though, the LED light comes through the numbers, instead of the dim backlight of the regular Phantom.





Now to fabricate the mount for the eBoost2 where the oil pressure gauge used to be in the coin tray area to the right of the speedo.
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
Here's how the oil temp sender gets mounted. You need as 1/8th NPT bung in the oil pan. I picked this spot so that it angled up into the bulk of the oil while avoiding the oil pickup screen or tube.



Here's with the bung mocked up on the outside. It was welded in and out to prevent oil finding itself between cracks, to the outside!
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Well, good thing I put the "extra" vacuum bung in the intake, the eBoost2 gauge needed a port. I thought it only went into the turbo outlet, but that's where the solenoid gets routed to, so now they're all being used!

My search for an O-ring for the SVT oil cooler has come to an end, no one can find anything to work. Ford never sold the O-ring seperately, and the cooler assembly is discontinued. I've been to Grainger and a hydraulic cylinder repair shop, and no one has anything that will work. I guess I'll see where the oil temps end up, and if needed, I'll have to go with a Mocal setup from BAT Inc. If someone has an SVT cooler that is rusting out and wants this one, let me know and we'll work something out.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
I have no idea what it looks like, it didn't come with one. Some larger diameter oil filter O-rings are about the right diameter, but they are all more than double the height I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Finally got all of the charge tubing trimmed to length and welded up. My welder (Lindsay Metal Madness, part of the NAPA store in Marengo IL), talented as he is, doesn't have a bead roller. He also altered the angle of my downpipe, to reflect the added spacer on the exhaust manifold.





Found Chassis Service in Waukegan IL at the airport, that are a chassis fabrication shop. They put the beads in the aluminum charge tubing for me; I don't know how I didn't know about this place before; it's a classic race car shop who are excited about everything wanting to go faster! We chatted about another customer running a turbo "double overhead cam 4 banger" Toyota who was making 960 WHP on 25lbs of boost, while gazing at a '36 Chevy street rod. Heaven. Now, pics;

 

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Hey in regards to the oil cooler o ring, I found a pretty good match out of an assorted o ring pack from O'Reillys. Work's good no problems with leaks or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #138 (Edited)
Progress continues! Exhaust gaskets made, exhaust on and axles back in along with suspension, motor oil and transmission lube changed. The tranny lube was basically new, but with the axle splines being wiped off, I wanted to make as sure as I could that I took every step to minimize debris in the lube, pulled out most pieces with a magnet through the axle hole. Need to wire brush my brake discs, they're so rusty from sitting for so long! All charge tubing is welded up and installed, made the last connection to the Turbosmart eBoost2 boost controller from the turbo discharge to the solenoid.

Made the final oil drain connection, now that I have a 5/8" brass elbow. I have wrapped the downpipe in titanium DEI wrap, and have a fire jacket over the oil drain line. I hope the combo keeps these two playing happy despite their being in direct contact.

Had the Boost A Pump wired up (GN/OG wire at pin 9 on the FPDM connector, to get between the fuel pump relay and the FPDM per the instructions on the BAP and the wiring diagram for a 2002 Focus) but seem to have misplaced the dial controller. Doh! I have only to put the front brakes and wheels on, and start assembling the front bumper cover and trim to fire it up!
(Note: After talking to Kenne Bell, they said the kit didn't come with the adjustable control knob for the BAP, as it isn't needed most of the time. They set the voltage output to 17.5V, and that works. Thought I was losing my mind!)
 
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