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Discussion Starter #1
I have both the Ford Service CD-ROM and the Haynes Manual to guide me, but are there any tips/tricks/warnings I should know before I really get into this install?

Oh and it's a Zetec clutch btw.

Nate
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know?

The shifter cable ends can be a major PITA to remove. They feel like they are going to snap before they come off. You have to really yank on them, which, if you are like me, makes you uneasy as they are plastic.
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know?

....zip tie the inner cv together before you pull the shafts.If you don't the cv can fall apart inside the boot.......You may also want to consider renting a slide hammer with a cv fork attachment to make it easy to get the CV out of the trans....
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know?

I pryed against the ball joint ends (shift cables) with a screwdriver. They ARE on tight though.

have fun with the driver's side half shaft. without the slide hammer and fork attachment, its a real blast. make sure to mark the flywheel alignment before you take it off to get resurfaced. I know that people disagree with me but I will reiterate that it IS possible to put it on wrong.

1 more, make sure to keep track of which mating bolt goes in which hole. they are different lengths and it'll save time if you already know where to use it.
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know?

If you're uneasy about disconnecting the shift linkage, you can leave it attached and unbolt the shift tower from the top of the tranny.

The driver-side CV joint was a huge PITA until I tried popping it out from the other side. That was a piece of cake - I just used a 1/8" x 3/8" steel bar from Home Depot. With a Quaife installed, an aluminum dowel would work, since the Quaife doesn't have that shaft (I don't know its name) in the way.

For me, removing the steering knuckle pinch bolts was a nightmare. Also, I followed the Haynes instructions and removed the axles completely, but I wouldn't bother with that. I also wouldn't remove the starter - just zip-tie it out of the way like the Ford CD says.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know? PROBL

I ran into one BIG problem yesterday that I will be continuing to attempt to fix today.

I hit a snag with the bolt that pinches the lower control arm into the brake spindle assembly on the driver's side. I put a T50 on the one end and used an impact wrench to spin the nut off. First thing that happens is the end of the bolt shears off with the nut. So I've got half the bolt stuck in the hole. Problem is I try to wrench it off with the T50 and it just strips the whole end of the bolt. So I start trying to tap it out with a hammer chisel... and try... and try... and FOUR HOURS (No, really, four hours) and one can of PB later I decide to try to drill the core of the bolt. Well that leaves a lot of metal shavings and no budge from the bolt. So I put a vise grip on the head of the bolt as hard as possible and try hitting it with a hammer to get the thing to turn loose. NOTHING!

The bolt hasn't moved a tiny bit. It's like it's welded to the spindle.

At this point I have no ideas about how to remove the bolt save for getting a whole new assembly...


I'm going to try hitting it with a propane torch today to soften the metal, but I doubt I'm going to get any farther.

Nate
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know? PROBL

I've had that happen too. Don't panic. Drill out the bolt remain. Then, I think the hole is tapped M8. Open it up to M10 pre-tap size and re-tap M10 1.25. Then you find that the threads on the bolt will not go past the balljoint stud once it is in the knuckle and tightened down. Just flatten the extra threads down with a grinder in the area that is against the baljoint stud and you are done.
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know? PROBL

Heating it with a torch will work wonders, but be very careful not to melt the ball joint boot.

As I said above, my pinch bolt removal was a nightmare. The bolt didn't break when I removed the nut, but the Torx head stripped. Then I used the double-nut jam method to turn the bolt, and it broke. Next I used a Dremel to cut two parallel flat surfaces into the bolt's head, and then I was able to stick a wrench on it and turn it. That was for my first pinch bolt removal. The second one went much faster because I decided ahead of time to just trash the bolt by pounding it out. But on my knuckle, the bolt hole isn't threaded like TeamDFL was saying, so the bolt could just be pounded free. I didn't know that for the first one, which is why I didn't try pounding it out - it looked like the bolt was threaded into the spindle, but it wasn't. It was just frozen in place from corrosion.
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know? PROBL

You are correct, it is not threaded from the factory. I threaded mine after the replacement bolt was not available and I had to drive to work.
 

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Re: Installing a new clutch today, anything I should know? PROBL

Oh, okay - gotcha. When I did mine, I bought the last two OEM bolts in the Syracuse area.
 
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