Ford Focus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, it's finally done. Ok, it's not finished yet, I still have to set up the pump, reservoir and cooler. But the intercooler and charge tubing is all done and that was the hard part.

I managed to shoehorn that huge Spearco A/W core in, but it took a lot of underhood reengineering. I had to relocate the brake/clutch fluid reservoir over to the passenger side firewall. I also had to drop the relay box down. And replace the upper rad hose and one of the heater hoses going to that plastic water rail on the upper rad support.

The key to the whole thing, and the only way to make it fit, was using the cast aluminum elbows from ATP. They seem like nice pieces, and weld well. I'm no expert welder, but they came very clean with no mold material sticking to them, and welded fine with no weird offgassing or cracking.

I remade the upper rad hose out of silicone heater hose elbows from an industrial shop.

I've also made a bracket out of aluminum that mounts to the driver's side engine mount frame stanchion.

I still have a few things left to do, in addition to the water plumbing. I am going to install the Forge Motorsport dual piston BOV this morning, and I need to make some sort of bracketry to hold the relay box. I need to be careful because the positive battery wires go into it, and it's now very close to the shifter.

The aluminum charge pipe comes very close to the header which concerns me. So I heat shielded the crap out of it. First I installed self-adhesive fiberglass/alumimum heat shield wrap. Then I wrapped that with 309 Stainless foil. It's just something my tool shop uses for wrapping parts they are going to be heat treating. I intend to eventually replace the foil with a SS/Fiberglass corrugated sleeve if they make it in that size.

I took it for a drive last night, as is, and it seems fine so far. I can't hear any rubbing or banging. One thing I really like is ALL hose connections are beaded. So I shouldn't ever have any blowoffs.


I'm a little disappointed as it appears their is a 1 PSI boost drop compared to the old charge tubes with the manual boost controller at the same setting. I was thinking/hoping that with the huge Spearco A/W core that I'd have less drop than this. Has anybody ever taken similar measurements? Anybody know their real pressure drop?

It might be closer to 1/2PSI which would be my target, but it's very hard to say since the boost isn't very stable. I think I used to stabilize at 7PSI, I was getting 6-6.5psi yesterday, but I didn't get an open road to run on.

The good news is that it doesn't appear to have had any major effect on boost response/lag. I'll know more later. I did notice that the backsurge through the compressor is much stronger, due to the increased volume, so I need to get the BOV on there ASAP.

I'll get some pictures up ASAP.
 

·
Driver > Car
Joined
·
23,988 Posts
i was looking at those elbows from ATP for a custom project with my XR4Ti, thanks for the reassurance that they're top notch. I'm not following why you replaced the heater hoses unless it was just to replace them with something more robust. cant wait to see the pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,553 Posts
Hey p-51 what size core are you using? I'm almost done installing a speaco 231 into my car. I'm curious to see how you did yours, I'll post a pic of my setup later.

You say that you are loosing 1psi because of pressure drop through the core but did you add any more bends to your previous setup to get that core in? So the actual pressure drop through the core itself might be less than 1 psi? Unfortunately the way I ran my piping I had to use 4 90" bends to get everything hooked up from the turbo to the tb. I hope I don't see too much drop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
One of the elbows had a small void spot in it. Not all the way through, but it would have failed an OEM spec. I used it anyway. I welded them to 6061-T6 using 4043 filler rod, so far so good.

The pressure drop isn't through just the core, it's the whole system. The turbo outlet is like 1.5", and the TB is 3". In the old system, I started with 1.75" piping, and the sizing up to 3" was very gradual. It was a slick setup.

Now, the 1.5" turbo outlet dumps right into a 2.25" tube, so that's not so good. Then the 2.25 gets sized up to 3" just before the intercooler. Then it's 3" all the way through. I used 3" hump connectors, and those elbows are very tight. None of this helps.

My vane actuator gets it's signal from the compressor outlet, and my gauge comes off the manifold. So the change is through the whole system. I would guess that a lot of it is in the elbows, the transitions, and the hump connectors.

The setup has pretty much the same number of bends as before. I have 1 2.25" mandrel bent elbow. And 3 3" cast elbows.

I'm not sure which core it is... I got it used. It's way too big for my setup really, but it was cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,553 Posts
Your setup sounds very similar to mine. My turbo outlet is 2" inches into a 2" 90 degree bend and then it goes from 2" to 3" over a couple of inches to a 3" elbow that feeds the intercooler.

I can see why you moved the brake resevior, I may have to as well. It's going to be close, 3" piping is huge!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,553 Posts
Here's how I am doing it, any criticism is welcome.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Alright, got the BOV installed this morning. Here's the little 1" nipple I machined on the lathe, and fishmouthed by hand:



Here is the fit up onto the 3" tube just prior to welding:



And here is the finished work. What do you think Rod?



And, without further adieu, here is the whole thing:







This is a picture looking down at the charge tube coming off the turbo. As you can see, it's pretty busy up there!
You can also see the fiberglass/Alu wrap on the tube, and the SS foil on top of that close to the header.



I took it for a drive, I've most definitely lost about 1psi. It wouldn't be a big deal if I had a GT28, but with the Aerocharger, I'm a bit disappointed with that. I wish I had numbers from somebody else to compare to. However, I really like the Forge BOV. I don't get the "chirping" like a rally car, but it does give one solid chirp. Sounds good. Very noticable, it's a very quick, sharp chirp, but not obnoxiously loud.

I'm going to have way too much found chirping the thing at lights.


I also notice that a "buck" is gone when getting off the gas. It's smoother, which is good.

Now to hook up the water....

I find my underhood looks kinda "cluttered" still. I want it to look neater. Not sure why it still looks cluttered after I burried most of the wiring and hoses underneath the intercooler.

I think blue sparkplug wires would help, but an aftermarket header would help most of all. Any other ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,553 Posts
That looks sweet! I like the intercooler mount, way better than what I was thinking of doing. Nice job on the welding too. I stayed away from aluminum intake piping because I knew I wouldn't be able to pull off quality welds like that with my mig welder.
 

·
Driver > Car
Joined
·
23,988 Posts
the one thing that concerns me (and concerns you as well) is the location of the fuse box. are you absolutely certain the shifter linkage isn't hitting any wiring?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'm fairly certain. It's still a work in process, but I won't "sign off" on this project until I'm sure. I've tie strapped all the wiring and hoses together into a bundle, and the only possible problem is the harness coming out of the box. But I messed around with it and I think it's good now.

I could also throw a couple more layers of protection on it just in case.
 

·
Driver > Car
Joined
·
23,988 Posts
3m makes a rubberized tape that only adheres to itself (stretches) and protects nicely. can tolerate i think up to 400 or 500 degrees. And, as always, if all else fails, slice a piece of heater hose and slip that over for protection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,538 Posts
Nice work.


Two related questions:

1.) Why not use the OEM exhaust manifold heat shield? I would think that would be a huge help in protecting the charge-air tubing.

2.) Is the OEM exhaust manifold heat shield's only purpose to keep us from burning our hands, or does it protect other underhood components from excessive heat? I've been wondering that for a long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,983 Posts
I think you will find the power increase from the intercooler offsets the loss of 1psi of pressure.
Yep, the timing that you'll be able to add with the cooler charge should easily make up for the loss in pressure. Not to mention the peace of mind in actually pushing somewhat cool air into the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Oh, I'm aware of that, but I was just trying to keep as much "headroom" on the AC as I could. If I could get 12psi in the engine with the same turbine speed as you guys are getting 10psi... well, that was the goal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Dudley: I actually thought about the stock heat shield myself, but the problem is that it doesn't really fit with the charge tube. Otherwise, it's excellent protection. Multi-layer stainless steel with air gaps is the best heatshielding around.

The shield is meant to protect other things other than hands. My cam cover is melting a little bit.
Though I doubt any stock cars get nearly as hot as my header.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
that looks pretty sweet dude. I think the reason why you think it might look dirty under there is because of the stock manifold, that thing is ugly! also the open space where the battery used to be. What kind of numbers do you expect to be putting down after the I/C install?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I've got no clue, but I'm hoping for 200 fwhp at least. 220 would be great, but I don't know if I will get there yet.

I tried to increase the boost a bit last night, back up to 7-8, but went a little too far. I was running 11 for a bit... unintercooled and untuned. Luckily I had the tables tuned to dump fuel, low 10:1 and into 9's sometimes. No deto I could hear.

It's funny, I've been running turbo for 2-3 years now, and never get much attention. Drove it last night, and after a few BOV chirps, I've got this riced out Cavalier following me...

I also managed to bracket the relay box properly. The box rubs on the MC, but that should be fine. The cable underneath just brushes shifter, it just need to tie strap it back, but it's hard to reach under there.

I also heat shielded one of heater hoses close to the header, just in case.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top