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Discussion Starter #1
In case anyone needs these in the future here you go! Huge thanks to Welding Rod for scanning these instructions and mailing them to me!
Print them out or expand the images to full size to read the instructions.

J&S ULTRA SAFEGUARD V 1.0 instructions and wiring schematic

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/mpetito/misc%20pics/JS-wiring-schematic.gif
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/mpetito/misc%20pics/JS-install-instructions-1.gif
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/mpetito/misc%20pics/JS-knock-monitor-instructions.gif

J&S ULTRA SAFEGUARD V 2.0 "Vampire" instructions and wiring schematic

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/FocusInstall.html
 

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Cool.. thanks for that.. I added this thread to the sticky
 

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Whoops, just noticed a SNAFU...

In the hand written notes on the first pic, where it says "Nitrous wire (yellow) to pin 89 (all white)" is incorrect and should be removed.

Sorry Gig, can you airbrush out that note?
 

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Is the schematic for the wiring to the ECU wires still the same colors on Foci 00-04(Zetec) or have they changed colors as the years progressed ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They should be the same for all year zetecs.
 

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Gigaherz said:
They should be the same for all year zetecs.
Ya, I was just a little paranoid that Ford would change them but I referenced the ECU pin out thread and everything still matches up.

Anyway, I got mine installed and it's pretty straight forward. Just a little work getting the wires connected to the ECU harnest.

Here's some tips that may help.

1.
Take the black ECU harnest cover off to be certain you have the correct wires.



When you take the cover off, you can see the harnest wire pin out.
It goes from left to right/top to bottom as:
79 to 104
53 to 78
27 to 52
1 to 26




Make sure you count the wires/pin out correctly when making the connections.

*The harnest has duplicate color combinations and you want to be certain you
have the right wire for the pin you want for connection.

If possible after making the connection to the ECU and J&S cable, use a small paper clip to insert in to the ECU connector and use an ohm meter to verify the correct pin has been use between the ECU to the J&S green weidmuller connector.

2.
Below is the connections I made. Pretty much the same as suggested except I
noted to use pin 71 for the power. This supplies power only when the key is
in the RUN position.





Here's the J&S Focus Vampire kit with knock meter I purchased. All parts shown were supplied with the kit.

 

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microtonal said:
2.
Below is the connections I made. Pretty much the same as suggested except I
noted to use pin 71 for the power. This supplies power only when the key is
in the RUN position.

According to John, the Safeguard needs to have power during cranking. Does pin 71 provide power during cranking? If so, then cool. :thumbup:

Personally, I prefer not to draw any power from the PCM harness, but I think John said the Safeguard only draws 1/4 watt, so it's probably fine. I'm a semi-paranoid SOB, so I took my power from the ventilation system's blower motor circuit.
 

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Dudley said:
According to John, the Safeguard needs to have power during cranking. Does pin 71 provide power during cranking? If so, then cool. :thumbup:

Personally, I prefer not to draw any power from the PCM harness, but I think John said the Safeguard only draws 1/4 watt, so it's probably fine. I'm a semi-paranoid SOB, so I took my power from the ventilation system's blower motor circuit.
Yes, pin71 has power during cranking.

I confirmed this with a voltmeter on the power pin to the J&S.
Also, you can see the J&S do it's monitor sweep test when the key is in the RUN position and it never runs the test again, indicating that power is constant from RUN to Start/cranking back to RUN.
 

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Where is everyone mounting these boxes? I have one on the way and want to know the most popular mounting points.
 

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Mine sits above the glove box and below the passenger air bag, completely out of sight. To access the sensitivity dial and the DIP switches, I run a precision screwdriver through a small hole in the dash.

I love the location, but it's a bit of work. I fabbed up a two-piece wooden "carrier" that mounts to the curved metal dash supports. It was worth the trouble, IMO, because:

1.) I didn't want to sacrifice any glovebox storage space

and

2.) Once I've dialed-in the sensitivity, I don't want to have to worry about messing up the settings. Plus I can stuff crap into the glove box without any risk of bumping into the Safeguard.

I tried a whole bunch of locations, and the only easy solution was to just mount the Safeguard in the glove box. If you don't have the Central Locking Module on top of your PCM, that might be a good spot, though.
 

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acnon said:
Where is everyone mounting these boxes? I have one on the way and want to know the most popular mounting points.
I looked around the ECU, around the blower and under the air bag and couldn't find a secure place for it so I just installed it in the glovebox with some velcro.

 

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i scratched my head for quite a while before installing my unit as I wanted the best spot to wire everything to the ecu harness and still be easily reached for adjustments, and not get in the way of all the other gizmos I have installed with custom fabed brackets (I have too many already I know!!). So as I was thinking about again fabricating an other bracket when I found the perfect spot. And so easy to install!

Flip the glove box completely down and out of the way. Flip the J&S unit upside down, and slide it forward and up at an angle toward the dash frame (that big horizontal tube you can see just below the passenger airbag). Rest the rear of the unit on top of the airduct, but just below the dash frame, which will squeeze the unit in place. That should allow you to rest the front of the unit underneath the top of the glovebox metal frame, just barely fitting behind the black metal "hook" for the glovebox. With a pen, trace the two holes of the unit on the glove box metal frame. Drill two holes and use two metal screws to screw it in place. As simple as that. Two metal screws and the unit stay firmly in place. And the nicest thing is that all knobs and dipswitches are reachable when you open the glovebox (just remember that UP is now down, and DOWN is now up!), but the unit can barely be seen (but still you can show it off to your friends and show how cool an install this is!!). My glove box requires just a tiny bit of a push to make sure it latches completely, but as fussy as I usually am on my install, this one is not even a concern. And all it took was two metal screws!! Man I'm glad I did not machined and welded a bracket for this!! I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post them. I hope this will help some of you... I love the unit and it was really easy to wire and setup. And it's nice to know that all is ok when I'm flat out! Definitely a must have when turbo.

Now can someone please tell me which pin number on the ECU for the A/F meter ?? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
In case anyone is interested I did a little mod when I installed my j&s. It's only usefull for the older non-vampire units. As most of you know if for some reason your j&s craps out you are dead in the water and have to fiddle with the plugs to get going again. When I installed mine I hardwired the two coil wires to the center terminals of a dpdt switch with a center off. I ran the green and brown wires that go to the j&s Coil input to one of the two pairs of terminals on the switch and I spliced in the white and blue ouput coil wires to the remaining two terminals in the switch. So now, with the switch all the way up to one side it runs normally through the j&S, with the switch off it cut's the ignition and the car won't start, and with the switch flipped down it bypasses the j&S in case it ever has a problem.

 

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so how are u guys setting these up do u use the boost retard part???
 

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I just connected the 2 coil wires, knock sensor +, ground and power.
The basic diagram shown on the J&S website.

You can retard on boost too and on mid range if you want but I just wanted the J&S to retard timing when it detected knock/ping/detonation.

Even has a retard switch input on demand that will retard timing 2 or 4 degree's depending on the dipswitch setting.

It's very flexible.
 
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