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Junk yard Turbo?

3.2K views 48 replies 12 participants last post by  richmedium  
#1 ·
What are some good turbos to look for at junkyards, and what cars do they come off of? Are early 90's model talon tsi turbos good?
 
#3 ·
How many km can a turbo withstand .. I don't plan on making a rebuild of a turbo .. I just want to use it in the shape its in .. What should i look for? not the cars .. but on the turbo
 
#4 ·
Just look for free moving bearings(meaning it rorates easily), Shaft play(meaning if the turbine shaft "wobbles" in an in and out motion), bent fins on the turbine wheel and compressor wheel, coked oil(meaning that the turbo had insufficient oil flow and the oil was literally COOKED to the point of being a thick sludge substance), cracked turbine housing(high temp and high speed sometimes creates cracks in the housing).

I got lucky and found one that was rebuilt like 3 months before I got it.
A rebuild would cost ya something like $300 and that is if none of the major parts are messed up....add from there if you have messed up compressor or turbine wheels, scored shaft, cracked housings....they usually replace the thrust bearings and all of the seals when you get a rebuild...and also clean the turbo up too.

hope that helps.

here is a site that you might want to look at...these guys know thier stuff
ForcedPerformance.com
and here is a link to what they do on a rebuild..
rebuild
 
#6 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by YelloZX3SA:
Just look for free moving bearings(meaning it rorates easily), Shaft play(meaning if the turbine shaft "wobbles" in an in and out motion), bent fins on the turbine wheel and compressor wheel, coked oil(meaning that the turbo had insufficient oil flow and the oil was literally COOKED to the point of being a thick sludge substance), cracked turbine housing(high temp and high speed sometimes creates cracks in the housing).

I got lucky and found one that was rebuilt like 3 months before I got it.
A rebuild would cost ya something like $300 and that is if none of the major parts are messed up....add from there if you have messed up compressor or turbine wheels, scored shaft, cracked housings....they usually replace the thrust bearings and all of the seals when you get a rebuild...and also clean the turbo up too.

hope that helps.

here is a site that you might want to look at...these guys know thier stuff
ForcedPerformance.com
and here is a link to what they do on a rebuild..
rebuild
<hr></blockquote>

Thanks for your tips bro.. and the links too!!
 
#7 ·
Ok, weel I have the turbo. Not sure what shape it's in but the bearings sound and feel fine. Hope there's no stress cracks or anything. Know of any good turbo shops around Orlando Florida?
 
#8 ·
Ok .. here's a question for you custom turbo guys .. I wanna get a junk yard turbo .. which one should I get if I'm looking into about 200whp (maybe 220whp) so about 8-10psi .. I will have it intercooled so what size turbos should I get and what turbo models or turbo car models should I look for.. i know there's plenty of turbo cars out there but I just don't know which turbo would be good for my application/needs

Thanks
 
#10 ·
Ahhhh! Shiping probably sucks on that.
 
#14 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bofeeka:
yea doogie a stock tsi comes with a 14b, pretty small but prolly good for our engines, i was gonna get 1 for free by throwing it over the junkyard wall but the guy walked out
Image
<hr></blockquote>

hahaha ok .. so a 14b would be good enough for a custom kit? those are from a 1st or 2nd gen talon?

Jay: if your reading this .. what turbo did you use the first time you installed the turbo?
 
#15 ·
Ok, so Bofeeka tried to STEAL the 14B from the junkyard
Image
if money is a problem for getting a Turbo, I suggest not going through with the project!

BerinG-How did you know I was reading??
Image


I used a 14B, got 190whp and 215ftlbs of torque. Now the turbo did show signs that it was running out of steam at higher RPM's, BUT, I did only have a 2 inch downpipe, going into the stock flex pipe to a 2.25 inch Bosal cat back. So I am 100% sure this was not helping anything!

For the New setup you were asking, well, I have a Tial Wastegate, T3 comming this week, the bigger .63A/R turbine and .60A/R Compressor, a Starion FMIC like Lee Martinez' that will look the same once I get the pipes re-welded, I am getting the TurboXS Type-H RFl BOV, I have the Clutch sitting here as well.

I will go in the next couple weeks to the shop to make the manifold adapter piece. Then I gotta save up to get the 3 inch Turbo back exhaust (MAX this will cost is 1200$ CDN for 3" Turbo back Stainless Steel with muffler and highflow cat)

I am going on vacation at the end of July, I am not sure if I want to put the turbo on before then as we are driving 13 hours to get to where we are goin. So it might only be in August that I get the Turbo on!
Image


And I WILL have a SWEET "How to Custom Turbo a Focus" Website!
Image


[ 06-26-2002: Message edited by: Jays2000ZX3 ]</p>
 
#16 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by BerinG:


hahaha ok .. so a 14b would be good enough for a custom kit? those are from a 1st or 2nd gen talon?

Jay: if your reading this .. what turbo did you use the first time you installed the turbo?
<hr></blockquote>
 
#17 ·
14b is from 1st Gen.
t25 from 2nd gen.

Lots of aftermarket support. Check out dsmtalk.com
faq.com
 
#20 ·
All in all this custom job will be cheaper than say a AC Kit? Any clue to what $ I'll be looking at for a basic job just to start?
 
#22 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
Ok, so Bofeeka tried to STEAL the 14B from the junkyard
Image
if money is a problem for getting a Turbo, I suggest not going through with the project!

BerinG-How did you know I was reading??
Image


I used a 14B, got 190whp and 215ftlbs of torque. Now the turbo did show signs that it was running out of steam at higher RPM's, BUT, I did only have a 2 inch downpipe, going into the stock flex pipe to a 2.25 inch Bosal cat back. So I am 100% sure this was not helping anything!

For the New setup you were asking, well, I have a Tial Wastegate, T3 comming this week, the bigger .63A/R turbine and .60A/R Compressor, a Starion FMIC like Lee Martinez' that will look the same once I get the pipes re-welded, I am getting the TurboXS Type-H RFl BOV, I have the Clutch sitting here as well.

I will go in the next couple weeks to the shop to make the manifold adapter piece. Then I gotta save up to get the 3 inch Turbo back exhaust (MAX this will cost is 1200$ CDN for 3" Turbo back Stainless Steel with muffler and highflow cat)

I am going on vacation at the end of July, I am not sure if I want to put the turbo on before then as we are driving 13 hours to get to where we are goin. So it might only be in August that I get the Turbo on!
Image


And I WILL have a SWEET "How to Custom Turbo a Focus" Website!
Image


[ 06-26-2002: Message edited by: Jays2000ZX3 ]
<hr></blockquote>

Ok sorry took a while to respond .. I had done a reply but then my IE crashed before I could send it .. and i didn't feel like writing a new one just yet hehe ..

I'm just asking caus I don't want the turbo to be at the top of its "lungs" to get the power .. So I'm wondering if another turbo, maybe a little bigger than 14B could do the trick .. I don't mind about lag that much (as long as its not spooling at 6000rpm ..) caus I don't want to spin the tires too much either
Image


I could probably just use the 14B to start with but then If i decide to go with something bigger, I'll need to fix up a new flange etc.. But I'm looking for 200-220whp .. that's why I don't know if the 14B would be ok .. caus I probably won't be able to get anymore power of it even with intercooler..

Is there a difference between a turbo back or just a catback for example? or is it just called turbo back caus its bigger and ideal for turbo ? I'm probably gonna get 2.5" inch exhaust depending on how much I have to spend on all of this .. IF I can, I'll get a 3" but not sure about that for now ..

Does the 14B come with an internal wastegate or do I have to get an external one.. (should be in there anyway..), and what about bypass/bov ? is it a necessity? I know it sounds good but do I need it? I heard you run rich with one (while changing gears) is it really necessary to run rich just to have a sound?

[ 06-27-2002: Message edited by: BerinG ]</p>
 
#23 ·
Ok, I was running about 8PSI of boost on the 14B, it can handle at least 15PSI comfortably from what I have read. Now at 10-12PSI, you would definetly get 200-220whp.

If you eventually want to upgrade, you just buy a 16G, or a Big 16G, basically has the same compressor housing, but a different, bigger wheel, and a bigger turbine housing as well.

The 14B is internally wastegated which is less of a PITA.

IMHO, you NEED a BOV/Bypass Valve. Not for the sound, but to save the turbo. If you don't have this, when you let off the throttle, all the air that is pressurised in your intake pipes gets routed back and hits your compressor wheel, slowing it down. Because the engine is making it turn one way, but all the excess boost in the pipes is making it turn the other way. That is BAD BAD BAD!
Image
So the BOV/Bypass Valve prevents this. And if you get a 1G DSM BOV, it is actually a Bypass valve, and you can plumb that back into the intake before the Turbo, after the MAF and you will not run RICH between shifts.

As for the Exhaust. On our cars, CAT-BACK means starting after the Flexpipe, to the back bumper. Turbo back, means from the TURBO to the Back Bumper, so on the Focus, that would mean the Downpipe, Flex pipe and "Cat-Back". So from the Turbo to the back Bumper!
Image


BTW, I still have a SFMS that I could part with!
Image
 
#24 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
Ok, I was running about 8PSI of boost on the 14B, it can handle at least 15PSI comfortably from what I have read. Now at 10-12PSI, you would definetly get 200-220whp.<hr></blockquote>

Ok .. that's great then .. it'd be perfect .. but with 15 psi, the air begins to heat up a little doesn't it
Image
.. but I was thinking about running it at about 10 psi .. should be good for at least 200whp.. (intercooled)

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
If you eventually want to upgrade, you just buy a 16G, or a Big 16G, basically has the same compressor housing, but a different, bigger wheel, and a bigger turbine housing as well.<hr></blockquote>

good .. where does this 16G come from? any stock cars come with it?

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
The 14B is internally wastegated which is less of a PITA.<hr></blockquote>

that's what I was hoping .. but can I set it at whatever I want? the wastegate? its probably got a stock setting you know, that's why I'm wondering..

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
IMHO, you NEED a BOV/Bypass Valve. Not for the sound, but to save the turbo. If you don't have this, when you let off the throttle, all the air that is pressurised in your intake pipes gets routed back and hits your compressor wheel, slowing it down. Because the engine is making it turn one way, but all the excess boost in the pipes is making it turn the other way. That is BAD BAD BAD!
Image
So the BOV/Bypass Valve prevents this. And if you get a 1G DSM BOV, it is actually a Bypass valve, and you can plumb that back into the intake before the Turbo, after the MAF and you will not run RICH between shifts.
<hr></blockquote>

that's what I was talking to my friend about last night .. If I put it before my maf .. it won't sensor the additional air.. so shouldn't give me additional fuel there ... but if I put it AFTER the maf, then its gonna see more air .. give me more fuel, but the air is gonna get vented (to air or to turbo ..) so the extra fuel will still be there.. that's what I'm still wondering about ..

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
As for the Exhaust. On our cars, CAT-BACK means starting after the Flexpipe, to the back bumper. Turbo back, means from the TURBO to the Back Bumper, so on the Focus, that would mean the Downpipe, Flex pipe and "Cat-Back". So from the Turbo to the back Bumper!
Image
<hr></blockquote>

aaaaah yeah
Image


<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
BTW, I still have a SFMS that I could part with!
Image
<hr></blockquote>

I'd love to get it but I'm thinking about getting tom's fuel .. just don't know how much time it would take them to make the chip, get the injectors and new maf .. would other injectors work for exmaple from a mustang or something .. I don't mind the gettho setup
Image
I'm trying to make it cheap (no really in quality ..) but it should still work just as good as other kits .. and I'm wondinerg how much it'll cost me to get this shipped to canada etc..

the sfms just doesn't seem as reliable as I'd like it to be .. I just can't afford a new engine
Image


so right now, what I've planned, is to get a used MX6 intercooler (100$), a used 14B (100-300$), fuel solution.. chip, maf, injectors (~1000$.. thats what i'm wondering), piping (about 500-600$), manifold (~400$)

notice these prices are in CAD$
if you want to rectify anything.. go ahead
Image


[ 06-27-2002: Message edited by: BerinG ]</p>
 
#25 ·
Well, first off.......

IT's a 14B, not 14G
Image


The 16G is the stock Turbo from a JDM Talon/Eclipse Engine.

The stock internal Wastegate is set for about 7PSI, you can set it to anything higher then that, just not lower. You can also buy a different wastegate actuator, same form factor as stock, set to lower PSI.

I dunno what you mean about the BOV and MAF's, I meant you put the Bypass Valve between the intercooler and the Throttle Body, and you put a hose on the Bypass Valve, that goes to the intake tubing, between the MAF and the Turbo.

I am thinking of Tom's Fuel setup too, only 10 hours away, not too bad. But I dunno, I still want to proove that the 5th injector works well!
Image
I just want 200whp right now, I mean, even with more power, I will not be able to use it to it's fullest!

Tom's Fuel setup, is 220$ for injectors, 200$ for MAF, 650$ for Chip tunned on the Dyno, so 1070$US about 1700$ CDN. If you get mail order, it will be cheaper of course. BUT, I can get a Standalone, for about 1500$, I also then need some bigger injectors, and Dyno time.

Oh, for the MX6 intercooler, make sure you check how you are going to set that up!
Image
Not that easy to fit something in front of our car, and in it's stock form, that intercooler might be a little hard to fit.
 
#26 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
Well, first off.......

IT's a 14B, not 14G
Image
<hr></blockquote>

hahaha.. its funny caus I was correcting just that while you we're writing the message
Image


<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
The 16G is the stock Turbo from a JDM Talon/Eclipse Engine.<hr></blockquote>

ok so is it easy to get around here? (probably not..) .. probably gonna get the 14B anyway
Image


<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
The stock internal Wastegate is set for about 7PSI, you can set it to anything higher then that, just not lower. You can also buy a different wastegate actuator, same form factor as stock, set to lower PSI.<hr></blockquote>

ok so I CAN'T go any lower than 7 psi .. so I need fuel for sure as soon as I install it .. good to know about the actuator

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
I dunno what you mean about the BOV and MAF's, I meant you put the Bypass Valve between the intercooler and the Throttle Body, and you put a hose on the Bypass Valve, that goes to the intake tubing, between the MAF and the Turbo.<hr></blockquote>

well, if you don't pass the air your returning from the bypass to the MAF, then your gonna get more air but no extra fuel ..

your gonna run rich, and then lean .. air .. fuel .. but then you remove the air .. so too much fuel .. but then air comes in but not through maf .. so no fuel .. so too much air

that's how I see it .. there was a thread about this .. I can't remember which one though .. hehe

I know I'm not understanding something about this .. I've been trying to figure it out .. can't seem to find an answer .. concrete answer (concret en francais hehe)

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
I am thinking of Tom's Fuel setup too, only 10 hours away, not too bad. But I dunno, I still want to proove that the 5th injector works well!
Image
I just want 200whp right now, I mean, even with more power, I will not be able to use it to it's fullest!
<hr></blockquote>

well, I wouldn't mind using the 5th injector but it supports up to about 200whp .. but it seems to close to the limit to play with it .. that's why I'm not fully convinced..

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
Tom's Fuel setup, is 220$ for injectors, 200$ for MAF, 650$ for Chip tunned on the Dyno, so 1070$US about 1700$ CDN. If you get mail order, it will be cheaper of course. BUT, I can get a Standalone, for about 1500$, I also then need some bigger injectors, and Dyno time.<hr></blockquote>

I heard it was 675$ for chip, maf and injectors .. I won't be driving 10 hours (and that's probably 10 hours from you .. maybe more for me hehehe) that's why I'm probably gonna go with mail order .. but I asked tom once .. if the chip doesn't work properly, for example, the 4 settings all have some kind of problem .. a/f not OK .. or timing not pulled enough .. pulled too much .. I dunno what could happen but anyway .. I was wondering If its possible to reprogram it even after its done .. to allow tweaking and such ..

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jays2000ZX3:
Oh, for the MX6 intercooler, make sure you check how you are going to set that up!
Image
Not that easy to fit something in front of our car, and in it's stock form, that intercooler might be a little hard to fit.
<hr></blockquote>

I was thinking of maybe putting it UNDER the car (facing the ground) with the way its made .. i know its not the ideal place but if it fits ..