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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a coolant leak... it looks like this plastic pipe has split.

I'm going to swap it out this weekend. Any tips?

7635
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey guys, so I've now replaced the coolant pipe on my car (for the second time). Take a look at the vid if you need any tips on how to do this at home. There's even a little hint in there which I think will stop these from failing as quickly. Hope it helps 馃憤

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Make one out of Home Depot copper pipe in 15 minutes and they last forever. Done on both my cars and at the time even cheaper than the OEM part was.
That's a good idea. I was wondering about a metal option, and copper would be best considering we're dealing with water (y)
 

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That's a good idea. I was wondering about a metal option, and copper would be best considering we're dealing with water (y)
The copper will work fine, but just don't get creative and try to solder anything. Similar to wire nuts, both are not meant for an automotive environment with vibrations. Wire nuts fall off (and aren't waterproof), and solder joints will crack and break.
 

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There is also a few companies out there that offer a metal replacement.

I've seen a few one-offs pop up in other groups, but not from a storefront. Thanks for sharing (y)
 

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Uh, I have to firmly disagree with the soldering comment, the parts can last forever done like that, I've had no trouble at all. I've used that copper pipe bypass made up of 7 parts on two cars with a combined total of well over 20 years use. Simple soldering to make them. I've also soldered up many transition pieces to allow for bulk straight hose to be used to not have to buy preformed specialty hose that commonly have one end be bigger than the other. It can save hundreds, I save a $100 bill doing that on a single Focus as compared to using OEM motorcraft hoses. The only hoses I buy are the upper and lower main rad hoses, all else is bulk straight hose only. Doing the same now to my Nissan.

The only thing you can't do is get the soldered part too close to exhaust heat. Most solder has to get to at least 450+ to yield under temperature. Before aluminum composite radiators showed up all rads were soldered brass and copper and very low trouble with them. The only reason we don't use them now is they are too heavy (fuel mileage thing).
 

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Best to use silver solder such as used in refrigeration lines.
It melts at a higher temperature, and is physically stronger and resistant to vibration.
Also, use only the thicker wall copper pipe for the same reason.
 
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