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Discussion Starter #1
Being a practical and responsible alcoholic hatchback enthusiast can present some serious issues. Should one's back seats happen to be folded down (or removed), the question is raised...

Where do you put your open beer containers???
Even the "trunk" is now part of the main cabin. You can't chug it quickly before hitting the road as that is irresponsible. But you equally can't just throw good beer away now can you!

Alas, the solution:
Ducman's patent pending Stuby Metal Holder Thing that Beer Fits In tm.

Save that beer for later by stashing it under the hood! The design is both lightweight and supportive (easily accepting three of your favorite beers).

We are currently working out small bugs in the setup before hitting the market (such as the undesirable "warm p!ss" state of the beer due to poor underhood cooling). WRC style vents are our biggest hopes. Alcohol injection is also well known for its cooling ability and will be thoroughly investigated.

BTW, it may also work as a great way to stash a dynabatt out of the way (to allow for MONDO intake) by the drivers side wheel well.
Another market possibility we will investigate. Stay tuned for updates with pics of installed Stuby Metal Holder Thing that Beer Fits In tm.

[ 07-28-2002: Message edited by: Ducman69 ]</p>
 

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Ducman,
That is a genius use or metal. I would that the WRC style hood vents may pose a problem should rain foul weather be on the trip home.

Also if you were driving like you were Colin McCrae you would probally need some sort of tie-down to keep the beer from leaving the "Stuby Metal Thing that holds beer" I think you are right about the dynabat install being a much smaller market than those beer drinkers who have removed the back seat.


Keep up the good work and well await your testing results.


Cheers,
Andrew
 

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You may want to tap into the cold side of the A/C and provide a couple of cooling coils to keep the sids cold...

...or you could become British and learn to drink your beer and ale warm.
 

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Very nice. Planning on making more and selling them?


Oh...one more thing. For battery placment purposes, you need to have a tie down over the top. Anal SCCA techs will want to see something keeping the battery from popping out.

[ 07-28-2002: Message edited by: PhocusZX3 ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would want to see that too.
I also don't want it bouncing around on the road.

Plan is to have a J hook that goes up and across the top in the center ---> and hooks with an V on the front face.

Only issue is I need to make it just the right length that its taught, or I need a way to tighten it down. So I may "belt it" and put lots of dual holes for where the V part hooks into (in case it stretches over time).


I'll post up the specs you can print out and bring to a guy (its not rocket science once you know where to put it and what fits well). I just had him use a spare piece of scrap steel he had laying around and with my specs made a box. Did it for free for me, but obviously that was a one time favor.
If you are picky, have him make it out of thinner aluminum (doesn't have to hold much weight) and you won't have to box cut it like I had him do (cuz it was too heavy for my tastes otherwise).

I'll probably spray paint the sucker red before putting it into place. Hopefully can get to it tomorrow or wednesday.
 

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i need one of those... im such the beer drinker.

-j
 

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Nice!


Is it aluminum or steel? It kinda looks like steel, which makes me question why you would go to the trouble of using a dynabatt, but then use a 20lb steel box.

I hope it's aluminum?
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by JohnsZX2SR:


...or you could become British and learn to drink your beer and ale warm.
<hr></blockquote>

No, we drink it cold too. I thought it was you Americans who drank it warm from those huge pitchers you buy?
 

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OH IM QUITE THE ALCOHOLIC, can you make one of those that can fit maybe a case or two, and possible fit in the front bumper, and maybe the ram air will keep it cool, depending on where you live
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by P-51:
Nice!


Is it aluminum or steel? It kinda looks like steel, which makes me question why you would go to the trouble of using a dynabatt, but then use a 20lb steel box.

I hope it's aluminum?
<hr></blockquote>

i was thinking the same thing? what's the weight of that with the dynabatt compared to the stock battery? it looks like it would be a little lighter...

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ducman69:
BTW, it may also work as a great way to stash a dynabatt out of the way (to allow for MONDO intake) by the drivers side wheel well.<hr></blockquote>

but then again it seems like the reason for this is just to open up some space under the hood, not to save weight

[ 07-29-2002: Message edited by: Bmorezx3 ]</p>
 

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oh I must have one. Can I get one in a black carbon fiber finsh?
 

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Duc - I know where that goes, relocates batt below "frame rail" using 2 factory bolts to mount it. I made mine to locate the batt in the same location. All factory wires worked without lengthening too, just had to undo some tape and corrugated covering. Mine is skelatonized aluminum though with punched lightening holes and a double bolt down stainless steel retention strap over the top. I used camper shell sealing foam tape on battery at contact points to hold firmly and prevent any chafing. Came out really nice and is quite light.

[ 07-29-2002: Message edited by: Welding Rod ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, that was the main motivation all along. You just can't fit a good intake IMO trying to snake it around a giant battery. Moving it to the trunk was too much of a hastle, and after I puchased the cable, that stuff is quite heavy itself (and a possible fire hazzard).

Yes its steel (cuz he had steel laying around). Grand total for parts and labor was $0.
No, its not 20lbs!
Its steel not... Uranium 238. There really isn't that much material there. If you like, I can weigh it for ya. If I were actually picking out materials and paying for someone to do it, I would not box-cut it and just use thin aluminum. It WAS pretty heavy before removing about 50% of the material from it:



[ 07-29-2002: Message edited by: Ducman69 ]</p>
 

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Please make one to fit a bottle of JD and a tube that runs through the firewall and into my mouth. here in Louisiana, I don't think they would call that "open container"
 

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Nice welding though!


What thickness is that? Looks about 3/16"? I like the idea, I might try it out of aluminum.

Hey, Welding Rod, if I got to buy aluminum from like... home depot, how can you tell if it's "weldable" or not? I know some alloys don't react well to welding. Is it best to stay with a known alloy by going to a metal supplier?
 

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P - There is no expediant way to reliably determine alloy. Both the 2000 and 7000 series are pretty common and have rather poor weldability, so I would go ahead and buy from a metal supplier. Probably be cheaper anyhow.

If you already had some unknown aluminum, in a pinch for non-critical applications, a simple sample weld and destructive test by BFH may be adequate.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Damn, it is pretty heavy. Almost 3.5lbs on the dot.

Oh well, I'm not going to be that anal about weight reduction. I suppose I could swiss cheese it and it would still be strong enough, but I'd only be losing a pound or two from about 2700lbs worth of car and driver (0.05%). I take poops that big, so don't really have the motivation.

But yeah, use aluminum... it shouldn't weigh more than a two pounds and you won't have to make extra cuts.

Just picked up the rubber washers on the way from work, so will plop it in tnight. Pics should be up soon.


BFH = Big F'n Hammer?
 

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What about putting a 12pack sized one down where the AC Stage III Intercooler would go? That would fix you cooling problems
.

 
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