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I used an Epoxy Putty, I think it's called Water Weld. Several companies make it including JB Weld. It's a grey putty with a white center, you just kneed it together, put it on, and 10 minutes later it's hard as steel. It's held up on mine for several months with no ill effects.
 

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I've done several TB's now and I use an epoxy called Marine Tex. It's super strong and designed to withstand marine use. My father owns a marina and we use this to fix the parts that apear to be unfixable, you can drill into it and even tap it so you can thread a bolt into it and it will hold, it can even be used under water. It takes about 24 hours to cure completely but once cured IT WILL NOT BREAK! It's fairly reasonable priced too, about $12-$15 for enough to do about 6 TB's. It's a 2 part epoxy much like Bondo but once cured there is no comparison. You can find it at any local marine retail store. If they dont have it on the shelf they can order it. Hope this helps you.

[ 12-21-2002, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: ZX3S2 ]
 

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JB Weld works fine on plastic, though any reasonable epoxy that takes a day ro so to cure should be fine...
 

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Well, I'm getting closer to doing this modification, but am wondering which epoxy to use. I've looked at several brand name products, and the upper temperature limit is 200F. Someone mentioned JB Weld, it goes to 600F, but does not list for use on plastics. Anybody got a good recommendation? I don't want the epoxy to fail and have the TB open up to extra air.
 

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if epoxy would fail, you would have heard about it before as so many people have done it this way. Even after driving for hours, I can touch the epoxy and its totaly HARD.

Happy modding
 

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Originally posted by Blue01Street:
I used an Epoxy Putty, I think it's called Water Weld. Several companies make it including JB Weld. It's a grey putty with a white center, you just kneed it together, put it on, and 10 minutes later it's hard as steel. It's held up on mine for several months with no ill effects.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Generally speaking, the longer it takes to cure the better the material will bond. 5 minute epoxies are not the best to use for this purpose. perhaps this material is the exception...
 

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It's just a matter of basic chemistry. A good epoxy will post cure when exposed to heat raising the softening point. Ideally you would want to post cure the epoxy before the final machining step.

I agree that slower curing epoxies generally react to a greater degree of cure and have less trapped strain that might cause distortion or cracking later on. An aerospace epoxy with a small amount of silica filler and a use temp above 350F would probably be best for this application.

I don't know what the stock throttle body is made of but I think it is a high temperature thermoplastic, such as PPS, with a softening temp above 400F. If someone sent me a piece of plastic from a junk throttle body, I could analyze it at work next year and identify the material, determine the softening point, determine filler content and get a good idea what type of thermoset (exoxy, for example) might be best to add material to the throttle body.
 

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LoL that is way to much work to go to to figure out what kind of epoxy for 1-2 horsepower...under low stress situations such as this you hsould be fine with about any kind of epoxy...now what can I use to fix the top mounting holes on my headlamps, I bought a non scratched set from anoth jetter and when they arrive these parts had snapped off...
 

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Originally posted by ZincYellowZx3Guy:
LoL that is way to much work to go to to figure out what kind of epoxy for 1-2 horsepower...under low stress situations such as this you hsould be fine with about any kind of epoxy...now what can I use to fix the top mounting holes on my headlamps, I bought a non scratched set from anoth jetter and when they arrive these parts had snapped off...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Bondo fixes everything
 
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