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Okay, so I have been fighting a stumble for the last week. It was getting REAAAAALLLLY bad. So I decided to tackle the stumble at the simple less expensive options.
Plugs, wires, coil pack.
No better. I used motorcraft plugs, wires and coil.
I checked all wiring to coil, rechecked gap on plugs and wires. So. Still no better. Then backfiring into intake! I thought I had wires backwards. Nope.
Replaced fuel filter.
"Little" better.
Replaced DPFE sensor.....(mine was full of water!)
Decided to start over.
DIFFERENT plugs, Different wires.

All is well, smoother than ever. I am using the D3 plugs and BWD wires from o'Reillys/

I am not sure if it was a combo of a bad plug and bad wire, but its better than it has been in the last year and NOOOO stumble under load!

YAY..
Check your plugs. I am not sure if my DPFE was failed, but it never had a CEL for it, or drove different witht he bypass.
 

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I have a 2007 SE Focus, 2.0L, and I cannot find the DPFE on it at all. I purchased a Motorcraft DPFE-15 sensor that is supposed to fit my car and I thought it would be an easy thing to just find it on the car and replace. I've been searching the web for advice with no luck, not even here. The EGR valve EGV-1025 has a hose connection to it, but it appears to attach to a coolant hose going to the thermostat.
Edit: OK the DPFE is built into the EGR valve on this car. Why is this information so hard to get. I'll have to check the operation of the EGR valve to see if it's working properly. Maybe just change it and see if the engine smoothes out .
 

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The DPFE on like 2002 models is too close to the exhaust, it builds up too much water as a result. The water gets under the very thin silicone seal over the DPFE strain chip and shorts the chip out. I lifted my DPFE about 6 inches by plastic wiretying it to the air intake tube then used maybe 4 feet of rubber vacuum line split in two pieces to extend the hose to the sensor. I let the hose drape down back of motor to create a water trap for condensation to go to. After losing a couple of sensors to the problem and then the mod, I have had zero problems and no CELs now for several years. The water freezes in the DPFE during the winter and then the motor goes spastic at idle since EGR is signaled on when it should be off.
 

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someone help me find a replacement for this dpfe sensor, its off my 2002.5 focus zx3 and neither ford nor advanced nor autozone can figure out why mine is different from EVERY OTHER FOCUS!!!
I have the exact same issue and part! What the he11?????? Where do I replace THIS???
 

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I just replaced my 2002 ZX3 (Zetec) DPFE sensor. Mine is mounted on the firewall. I have read through these posts and cannot figure out which connector goes to which sensor. My vehicle's sensor has the hose mounts one in front of the other whereas most of the replacement sensors seem to have them side by side.

I purchased a used EGR setup (EGR, DPFE, hoses, solenoid, connectors and wires) off a Pick-n-pull car. Here's what the replacement DPFE looks like:


And this is what the one that came off my Focus looks like (98BB-9J460-AB):


You can see how the connectors are a different shape. I knew there were differences in the connectors because the RockAuto.com listings all indicated "may require new pigtail." I cut off the old connector leaving enough wire to recrimp it to the wires if I needed to go back to the old connector. My used part might not have been good - but the EGR looked shiny, so I figured it was pretty recently attended to.

After some connectivity trouble with my crimping work caused a bunch of P1401 codes, I cleared the code a final time and removed the battery ground to clear the DPFE history. Until I did the final reset (disconnect battery), the Focus continued to throw P1401 even through it drove smoothly.

My symptom that prompted replacement was as follows:
  • Poor gas mileage
  • Occasionally when cold, RPMs at startup would oscillate up and down over about 300-500 rpm with a period of about 3 seconds. This would not happen with every start
  • Engine would seem to miss occasionally: Running on level ground in 5th gear (manual trans), at about 30 mph [50 kmph], the car would seem to miss causing a jerk front-to-rear intermittently and noticeably. A miss would occur on average about every 5-10 seconds but with no consistency. As steady-state RPMs increased, the jerks would be less noticeable. I did not notice any missing under acceleration or deceleration.
  • Idle was very slightly rough, but we have only owned the vehicle for about a year and it has been this way the whole time.
Lots of research led me to believe this intermittent issue was the DPFE. I recently had an alternator fail, and I drove it to within pushing distance of a repair shop. The last 1/4 mile, it bucked really hard until it died completely. I am pretty sure I fouled the plugs at the end of that stint, so when I got it back it was WAY down on power, noticeably rough idle and occasional misses worse than before. Three hours of highway driving later, and the plugs were cleared up, but the missing was still occurring .. hence the research and decision to replace the DPFE.

I have a multimeter, but did not bother checking the DPFE. Instead, I figured I'd drop a replacement in and just see how it performed afterward. If that didn't clear it up, I was planning on also replacing the hoses and EGR. My cost for the used parts was $50. I thought that was pretty expensive (about 50% of new) for pulling my own used gear. I miss the old days of independent yards offering competitive prices on this sort of thing - Now that scrap metal has gone corporate, they're using monopoly power and prices have skyrocketed.

Hopefully someone else can use the symptoms information as well as the info on the connectors to sort their Focus stammer and miss problems related to the DPFE sensor.
 

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You need the exact same type as what was on the car originally as the calibrations can be totally different. As well, what if the pin locations are not the same? You wired a connector on but is it right?

The two steel tubes that the hoses go to are in different locations on the EGR tube. The one that is first gets full exhaust flow, or HI for high pressure, then there is a washer with a hole in it welded across the tube to restrict it, the steel tube after that is the REF or reference hose. Look at the EGR pipe and imagine a washer inside pipe between the steel outlets there.

Take the vacuum hose off the EGR VALVE and plug the hose and drive car around. If the problems are still there it is NOT the EGR unless the valve itself is bad.
 
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