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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, so I never was really very clear on this.

From my understanding, ideally, you hold the RPMs at whatever the car likes best, then when the light turns green/you want to go, you let out the clutch, and you're off. This doesn't work at my local track, however, because if you're off the brake for long, the wind that is typically there will blow you off the line. What i've been doing is holding the brake until right before I launch, blipping, and then going, but this is inconsistent, and makes it hard to get a good launch.

I'm looking for alternatives...do you hold the ebrake, and let off when you launch, or hope that the wind doesn't blow you off the line, or...? Help me out here.

TIA.
 

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hold at right rpm, pull ebrake SLIGHTLY (if you have wind) and hold button in of course

few things you can do next
drop clutch, and floor it
feather clutch (let out slower) while giving more and more gas
 

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That shouldnt happen. The wind shouldnt blow you off the line. Are you sure you arent letting the clutch out to much and its starting to grab and creep forward? Either that or your track is on an incline. I have never had a problem like that and unless it is REALLY windy, that should never happen.
 

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Also you have to move almost a foot to red light. Just pull into the steging lights, wait for the other lane to stage, push hard on the break pedel to set the pads, hold the gas steady and wait for the 3rd yellow and go. you should not roll out of the staging before the 3rd yellow.
 

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I go right after the second light and have netted a .028 r/t. I was curious usually I just sit at the light with my rpm's at 2800 and clutch just engaged. Then fully let out the clutch and work the gas pedal to keep it from bogging. Anyone have a better technique? I was wondering why on a manual tran u'd use the ebrake?
 

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I go right after the second light and have netted a .028 r/t. I was curious usually I just sit at the light with my rpm's at 2800 and clutch just engaged. Then fully let out the clutch and work the gas pedal to keep it from bogging. Anyone have a better technique? I was wondering why on a manual tran u'd use the ebrake?
i only said to use the ebrake for him.. cause he said his car was rolling off the line

your technique seems fine, as long as its quick... good idea to keep the clutch engaged LIGHTLY while revving to prepare to go .. reduces shock on the drivetrain
 

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Comment on the wind:

Infenion Raceway (which is the track demon most frequents,) has some stupid wind some nights. I've been moved a fair bit there too, never enough to un-stage, but I could tell I was moving backwards when staged.

With that in mind kev, what about staging "deep" on windy nights? Roll to the second staging beam, so that if you do move back, it's not going to throw a light or anything...
 

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I'm planning on making/using my sct proracer pkg to create/use a "Drag Rev Limiter" where I can rev to X,XXX rpms and it will hold that rpm until The clutch is fully disengaged, then go to my normal rev limit untill I'm at idle again. I think FS had a program simmilar to this at one time. Thoughts?
 

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MSD Ignition has a two-step program just for that. Set your RPM, hold a button, and dump the clutch. Perfect launch everytime.
 

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So it will do that everytime the clutch is engaged? Is there any way to turn off that feature?
 

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Not sure until I get all versed in the SCT Programs, but I imagine one would simply do a reflash on the spot with the OBDII cords.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm not a fan of the two step in the ECU idea, at least if there's no way to deactivate it. If you're trying to get started up a steep hill, have that, and need to rev beyond what you'd normally launch at on level ground, you're screwed. Good for the racetrack, not as good for daily driving.

Thanks for the tips. I'll try them next time I get out there.
 

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I'm not a fan of the two step in the ECU idea, at least if there's no way to deactivate it. If you're trying to get started up a steep hill, have that, and need to rev beyond what you'd normally launch at on level ground, you're screwed. Good for the racetrack, not as good for daily driving.

Thanks for the tips. I'll try them next time I get out there.
it's only engaged when you push a button(or whatever you have it linked to). when the tree turns green dump the clutch let it catch then let go of the button and your back under normal operation.
 

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I'm not a fan of the two step in the ECU idea, at least if there's no way to deactivate it. If you're trying to get started up a steep hill, have that, and need to rev beyond what you'd normally launch at on level ground, you're screwed. Good for the racetrack, not as good for daily driving.

Thanks for the tips. I'll try them next time I get out there.
it's only engaged when you push a button(or whatever you have it linked to). when the tree turns green dump the clutch let it catch then let go of the button and your back under normal operation.
With the sct xcal and xcal-2 which is a handheld unit, you can simply install the program once you get to the track, then when you're done for the night install the other program for daily driving.
 
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