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Thanks for all the great info. But, as I read through all the posts, I am a little confused. I apologize up front for reasking this question if it is answered already, but I could not piece it all together.

My basic question is if I buy the new Motorcraft cylinder, set the tumblers to match my existing keys with PAS chips, and reinstall the cylinder, will it work? Or do I need to have something "re-coded". Based on j20000 posts, I understand that is not required. But, in several of Steve's (STVParts) posts, he mentions coding. In other things I've read, it talks about needing a scanner to reset the security system, but I suspect that may be needed if you buy one of the cylinders that comes with new keys.

Anyhow, can someone set me straight?. I just want to make sure I know all the steps before launching. Thanks
Just to add on, Steve is talking about "coding" the lock cylinder tumblers/wafers to work with your existing key. I coded my new tumbler on my livingroom table to work with my key and popped it in the car. There is no kind of computer reprogramming needed whatsoever.



Side note; I got a Strattec cylinder and it had the Ford logo on it, and recently I got a new key from a Ford dealer and they gave me a Strattec key. So I'm pretty sure Strattec makes oem stuff for Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter #322
Correct...all you need is the cylinder. The PATS sensor is a black ring that is around the outside of the cylinder. It's totally seperate from the ignition cylinder.
 

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J20000,

Thanks for the posting!
The mallet on the key got it working so I could get the car home.
Money is tight right now so I just took apart the cylinder and removed the pins and associated parts as a temporary fix!

Thanks again, saved us a bunch of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #324
glad to help.
 

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So what prevents the key from turning in a bad cylinder? Mine was getting really bad and when I pulled it out it turns completely fine. I notice that the back of the cylinder pops out as you insert they key, so something prevents this from happening fully when its in the car?

Also, I could not push the release button in when my key was in the 'on' position. Mine was somewhere between acc and on. The best way to gauge where you have to turn the key to is to try the key in the new cylinder and see where it releases. It takes very little force to push the button. I also broke a tab off on the shroud but no big deal.
 

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I just registered to thank everyone on this thread as I successfully replaced my ignition cylinder with very little effort. You are a trooper for being this supportive for many years j20000, so thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #327
You're welcome...glad I could help. I actually bought my first Focus in 2000 when they first came out, but didn't know that FocalJet existed until 2005. I got rid of my Focus in 2007, but there are so many great people here (young, old, guys, chicks...some that are both. :lol:), that I just can't leave. Hopefully you'll stick around to find out. ;)
 

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Please help! I've been reading through the forum to try to find an answer, but I can't seem to find a post with the same problem I am having. I successfully removed my ignition cylinder, put the new Strattec cylinder together (the tumblers were flush with the cylinder & the key would move in and out smoothly) but when I inserted it into the car it would turn enough to start the stereo, lights, etc. but will not turn enough to start the car. Now the key is stuck inside the ignition cylinder & the ignition cylinder is stuck in the column. I thought I was careful to insert it the proper way so the half circles would match up in the back, but when I turn it to the acc position the release tab doesn't seem to be where it should be. In other words, I'm worried I somehow inserted it the wrong way and it is now stuck, along with the key stuck inside. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #329
That happened to me once when I was installing a cylinder for someone. It took me a few hrs of working on it to get it out, but I just messed with it and it finally came out. I wish I could tell you what I did to get it out, but I don't know. It went in crooked, and I just kept turning it and pulling on it until it came out. Sorry I can't give you better advice.
 

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The key quits turning when enough key and tumbler wear happen so that the lock bar does not lift quite clear of groove. If you can get it apart without destroying cylinder you can slightly grind a 45 degree angle on cylinder lock bar edge that causes the trouble to make the whole thing to go back to working as normal. The angle enables the lock bar to bump up and go over the groove edge without locking up. I did mine for like 13 cents of electricity and dremel with a flat ended rock in it. Took maybe 30 seconds to do it. Has been working flawlessly now for over a year.
 

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Haha! ITs nice to know I'm not the only one who leaves my key in!!

How much does a new cylinder run?
 

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Hi guys
I have removed the cylinder but i have not got a replacement yet. How can i dissasemble the existing cylinder to get the springs and wafers out for a quick twmp fix. Does the key need to be turned to acc to disasemble the faulty cylinder? Pls help as i need the car for work.
 

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For a quick temp fix, I believe you can just leave the cylinder out, and start it with a screwdriver or similar, but make sure you hold the key next to the hole so the pats system will allow it to start.
 

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Hi guys
I have removed the cylinder but i have not got a replacement yet. How can i dissasemble the existing cylinder to get the springs and wafers out for a quick twmp fix. Does the key need to be turned to acc to disasemble the faulty cylinder? Pls help as i need the car for work.
Yes you need to turn the key to remove it. If you cannot then drill the tab out that locks it in place.
 

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So I decided to fix it my way. Luckily for me, hitting the key with a hammer allowed it to rotate forward. I removed the cylinder from the column and dissected it myself. You can disassemble the key cylinder and remove the tiny buttons and springs (make sure you get them all) These are what fail and cause it to not recognize your key. Reassemble cylinder and now it will rotate freely. Now here's the deal. You can basically turn your ignition with any key or anything for that matter i.e. screwdriver, butter knife, but it will only turn on the accessories, unlock the wheel, and turn on the ignition. You CAN'T start the car. It will only start with your original key, that you can continue to use for FREE:thumbup: You can also pull the key out while in any position, but this does not bother me. Hope this helps everyone.
Thank you. I should have replaced it a year or three ago. (I just used a prybar to free it up, get the key out and used more graphite...for the past few years... heheh) Well it went out friday evening at my wifes work. So... saturday morning, I go over there, beat it with a rubber mallet while turning it with channel locks... HUZZAH! car starts. I drive it home, and promply did exactly what you suggested. The hardest part I encountered was getting the "guts" out of the tumbler. I used a dremel tool with a cutting wheel, I just popped off the one long raised on a spring piece of metal and ripped that out, then sawed through the other piece that appeared to be a stamped in cover that for the life of me I couldn't just pry out. (careful not to over grind melt and otherwise embed the little (brass / copper?) teeth that move against the key. I used a tiny allen key to hook the toughies and get them out. After that ( and remembering to put back on the horseshoe keeper ring that keeps the tumbler in the cylinder /facepalm) the thing works great, car starts up np. looks like the key is actually doing something. I most likely will be making contact with Steve from http://forums.focaljet.com/members/fordsvtparts.html for his hookup of a 74 dollar coded replacement, as its my wife and she looked at me funny... However, it got me through the weekend, and is a perfectly fine fix till I get around to replacing the thing. Just wanted to say, THANK YOU!!
 

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You guys make this way too hard. I've just now gone and done same trick previously described to my '98 Contour which has virtually same design lock cylinder. It started acting up, key won't insert fully and then the dreaded lock up and no turn. Again, pull apart, clean in solvent, 13 more cents of Dremel grinding on the proper tab corner and presto this one now works like new too. Too easy.
 

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You guys make this way too hard. I've just now gone and done same trick previously described to my '98 Contour which has virtually same design lock cylinder. It started acting up, key won't insert fully and then the dreaded lock up and no turn. Again, pull apart, clean in solvent, 13 more cents of Dremel grinding on the proper tab corner and presto this one now works like new too. Too easy.
heh, I actually thought of just "fixing" the pins that were bad. Reason I gutted it, was I didn't want surprises nor to have to pull it again. I wanted to be sure it frigging worked and didn't lock up on her when she was out and about. And since the key has the chip, security wasn't an issue. Although, for cars without, as well as cleanliness of your job. /salute.
 
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