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Discussion Starter #1
New to this group, Seems like this is where its at for getting the nitty gritty tech on the focus, so here I am.

I have an 02 svt with 60,000 miles and Im not having enough fun and im starting to think she looks ugly.

Well can't really justify ditching here quit yet so im changing her wheels to the 17"euro's and I want to change the suspension?

I have a headache with all the threads i have read and I seem to be coming up with h&r cup kit.

I like to drive very spirited on the street, would love to hit the track but afraid of the possible expense at the moment.

I was hoping to find the right choice for an improvement for the svt set-up.

stay with 215 45 17 and be able to really enjoy
Freeways lol
city streets lolx2
and be lower to the ground so she looks better

Thanks for all the posts. Its great to be able to get all this information.....no if I can only make sense of it all to find me smiling going down the road.

peter
 

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Hey Peter man......

Welcome to the jet


I have the prokit drop and have been very happy with it. H and r is very good from what i have read.
 

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New to this group, Seems like this is where its at for getting the nitty gritty tech on the focus, so here I am.

I have an 02 svt with 60,000 miles and Im not having enough fun and im starting to think she looks ugly.

Well can't really justify ditching here quit yet so im changing her wheels to the 17"euro's and I want to change the suspension?

I have a headache with all the threads i have read and I seem to be coming up with h&r cup kit.

I like to drive very spirited on the street, would love to hit the track but afraid of the possible expense at the moment.

I was hoping to find the right choice for an improvement for the svt set-up.

stay with 215 45 17 and be able to really enjoy
Freeways lol
city streets lolx2
and be lower to the ground so she looks better

Thanks for all the posts. Its great to be able to get all this information.....no if I can only make sense of it all to find me smiling going down the road.

peter
hmm well the cup kit will probably require a camber kit due to the extensive drop...but i think you may want to consider a koni shock setup with hr sport or race springs (sport about a 1.5 drop and race about a 2.1 drop). The Konis are great because you can change teh stiffness of the dampers for the highway driving for comfort and when you want to take it to the track you could stiffen em up for better handling. Some has said with the koni's and a good choice of springs (H&R in my personal opinion) you will get better performance than the cup kit, but the cup kit is cheaper than getting koni's and springs. Remember to shop around too because you can find amazing deals sometimes.
 

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The Cup Kit or H&R Race springs would both probably require a camber kit. Also, the Race springs would give you a punishing ride, but it'd handle awesome. The Eibach Pro-kit would have a nicer ride, but less of a drop and slightly worse (subjectively) handling than the H&R options.
 

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H&R Race and Koni's with the H&R Rear Sway Bar would be a mean setup. Performance and looks together.

Will probably need a camber kit.
 

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i have read people have gotten away with no camber kit with the race springs...i also read that the camber kits available are crap
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey guys thanks for all the input hope this feedback keeps coming cause im hoping to get my mind made up from this post and the replies from all of you.
Thanks again,
pete
 

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Well, you probably can "get away with" no camber kit. If you're lucky, you'll have even camber left to right, and your tires won't tear themselves apart. If you're not, you'll need new rubber every 5,000 miles. And it's not that the camber kits available are crap, just that they tend to cause problems when used for large adjustments. Not the sort of problem a normal user runs into, but the sort of thing that worries a dedicated road racer.
 

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I have wonderous butt cheeks
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I think if I were you, I'd stay away from the Cup Kit. Not that its a bad setup, but a 2.5+ inch drop is not what I consider suitable for plain city driving with maybe track, maybe. Try to stick around an inch and a half (I'm at 1.6 and only scrape my mudflaps on speedbumps, if they weren't there I wouldn't scrape at all) and maybe 2 inches at the most. That way your car is still functional for the most part and you don't have to avoid speed bumps or potholes like the plague.
 

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Don't Call Me Gaga!
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i have read people have gotten away with no camber kit with the race springs...i also read that the camber kits available are crap
"gotten away with" is a bit of a confusing term.... In my opinion if you are the type of customer that wants the performance of the H&R race springs and Konis, why would use use a camber kit to reduce negative camber? I used a camber kit to increase negative camber.

The H&R race springs should never be purchased for looks, because the ride quality is very poor for those not into pure handling... and those looking to reduce negative camber with H&R race springs are probably into looks more than function.
 

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plenty of people have the Cup Kit without camber plates and have been able to adjust back in factory spec without the plates...
 

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plenty of people have the Cup Kit without camber plates and have been able to adjust back in factory spec without the plates...
Wrong. Without camber plates, they have no adjustment at all. It's possible that they're still in factory spec, but they didn't adjust it that way. They just got lucky.

Edit: Unless they have slotted control arms or such. But that's an even more expensive solution.
 

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Don't Call Me Gaga!
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I'll list my view on the situation, this isn't an insult to anybody, and take it as you will:


This probably sounds ridiculous to some, but I don't believe in factory spec "ranges" for alignment settings... they are far too broad.

If the factory "specs" list .5 degrees to -1.1 degees, and you start out at .2 and go to -1.0, do you rejoice because you are still within "spec"? Heck, no! You fix it to what it needs to be for your application... if possible.

There is a drastic difference in handling and tire wear within the factory specifications.

It is much better to set it right than set it "in spec"

I happen to know, for example, that the rear toe allowance in my 2k FSM is -1.1mm (out) to 5.1mm (in). Pardon me, but 5.1mm in will chew tires like mad and dull turn-in. Do you still trust it because the factory says it is okay? Nah.

This is why I do my own alignments.
 

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Or, get your alignment done at a tire shop managed by a hardcore autocrosser. That's what I'm planning doing.
 
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