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The installation took two evenings and a couple hours today for the fine tuning and everything came out really well in the end. Its a wet fogger system and its running at about a 50 shot right now. Performance is excellent, especially noticeable in 3rd gear and up. Complete install photos

First day of installation was a let down. We planned our install from the instruction manual to later find out (in mid install) that the main supply line hose was 2ft shorter than listed and our install ended up being 1.5ft short because of it; had to go to a 2000PSI rated 3ft extension piece which ran about $80.

Next problem was the fuel rail didn't have a test port on it which is where the fogger should get its fuel from. Other options were to tap the fuel rail and fit a hose adapter but I want to be able to go back to stock in a couple hours if need be and I didn't want to chance any drilling fragments in the rail. Last option was to T-line into the flexible fuel supply line before the rail but SVT uses a rubber with hard plastic inner liner which isn't safe to cut into. Solution was to replace the flexible hose with our own all rubber and place a T adapter into. We used extra attention to detail on this because of the high pressure (thanks for the reminder SlickShoes).

Another problem was the WOT switch.... had to really do a custom job to get it in place, there is so little room under the cover. Basically just cutting, bending, and testing over and over until everything lines up. Need to make sure its really securely mounted as you wouldn't want a failure jamming the throttle at full tilt.

Nitrous supply install went really well. The stainless steel braided hose was run down along side the fuel supply line. There is even a spare set of cable clips empty along the length of the fuel line. Nitrous bottle was mounted to the fibre board which unfortunately doesn't go all the way to the right side of the trunk so the bottle is about 6" from the right.

The only other tricky part was tapping the fogger nozzle into a rounded and corner section of my AEM CAI. To make sure the seal was tight I used a copper gasket to bend to the contour of the pipe. You need to hold a bolt like adapter on the inside of the CAI (about 8" from throttle body) so some long skinny bent needle nose pliers are really handy. The fogger must be installed perfectly otherwise puddling could result in the manifold.

Arming switch is located behind the drivers heated seat switch, opposite traction control, and is nice and out of sight when a police officer visits your window
Although the lunar gauges might be a dead give away. I have nitrous pressure and A/F ratio but they're not installed yet; I have an A-pod but I don't know if I want to use it as I'm trying to stay sleeper. The only 12Volt switched source I could find for the arming switch was from the heated seat switch which was nice and close, found by using a digital multimeter. All of the other electrical work was as easy as it gets, the kit provided everything including elec. shop supplies.

That's it. Could definitely be done in an afternoon but there was lots of shop supply runs that slowed it down and of course the main nos line being shorter than spec really stopped the day and cost me $$. I've been using the NOS for only about 5 seconds at a time and oil/coolant temps aren't moving from normal. I know the gauges aren't overly accurate but they should atleast provide a relative reference.

Most importantly, I love the firm but steady pull through 3rd gear and up! I avoid 1st gear just because I wouldn't want to chance bouncing the rev limiter! In terms of $/HP its a great add to the SVTF since horsepower gains are hard to come by.... just as long as I don't blow my motor! I try to be sensible though, just a few seconds here and there. Sensibility will be thrown out the window next weekend at the track!!
 

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Great write up! Glad to see you went with a WOT switch as well, even if it was a PITA. Definitely let us know how it does at the track.
 

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Looks great!

Edit - FYI, there are better matching gauges than the Lunar series. Phantom and Comp-lite ( I think) are perfect matches.
 

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Yah I was concerned about the bright blue of the lunar gauges but what I'm going to do is install a nice interior mounted variable resistor above the stock dash light variable resistor. It will be in series between the stock potentiometer and the lunar gauges. Apparently reducing the voltage will make it match. Before I install I'm going to play with different voltages and if I can't get a good match then I'm going to return them for the phantoms with a green bulb. My goal is to make those damn lunars look like they do in Autometers website!
 
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