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Discussion Starter #1
OK I'm still planning on proceeding with this...

Anyone have any thoughts on the B&M Kits? Apparently they make an adapter that goes on to the stock oil filter location and run out to the stacked plate cooler assembly.

I think that reliability might be a smidge of an issue but in theory, if I just buy the heat exchanger, couldn't I run it inline with an existing oil line?

Also, I guess a company called Cool-Tek makes a kit that seems like it just slips inline... but they offer an oil filter relocation kit as well (which would be nice to do anyway)

Any thoughts? TIA
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone?

I think I'm gonna call these guys on Tuesday and see what their refund policy is... and just bite the bullet. For $250 it seems like it might be a good investment.
 

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Well, obviously, any time one can keep oil temps in check (say under 230 degress) that is a good thing providing the system is installed well and never leaks...
 

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This was discussed a while back when I was looking at putting one together. BAT sells both sandwich plates and take off plates 3/4 16tpi is the thread you are looking for.

SRF had a good point in one of the previous threads about a water to oil cooler having less risk of fire should the unexpected happen. I would definitely want to plumb it with nice high quality hoses too. The last thing you want to do is puke oil because you saved a couple bucks on hoses.
 

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Oh yeah, and with the oil to water you have much more flexability with mounting location because you don't need the air flow.
 

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I have a Griffin radiator with built in oil/transmission fluid cooler on the side. It does (did) work well.
Let me explain.
After 5 years it developed a pin hole. It is just a tube with fins welded into one of the side pods.
Oil pressure at 60-70 psi and water pressure at 16-24 psi
let oil into the radiator. Hasn't been a big problem so far.. water hasn't back tracked into the oil pan, but I will have a stand-alone oil cooler by this time next week. Just no way to check it, till it leaks. (you can't just take a look at it for problems.)
Catch-22 is we aren't supposed to use antifreeze (I probably told y'all about the FF Cobra I almost took out at Roebling when a Shelby CanAm puked antifreeze going into turn 1
- had just made the pass when I did a 4 wheel drift into her line), and I run water with a couple of bottles of WaterWetter in it, so corrision is an issue.
 

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OK I'm still planning on proceeding with this...

Anyone have any thoughts on the B&M Kits? Apparently they make an adapter that goes on to the stock oil filter location and run out to the stacked plate cooler assembly.

I think that reliability might be a smidge of an issue but in theory, if I just buy the heat exchanger, couldn't I run it inline with an existing oil line?

Also, I guess a company called Cool-Tek makes a kit that seems like it just slips inline... but they offer an oil filter relocation kit as well (which would be nice to do anyway)

Any thoughts? TIA
I guess my first question would be, do you presently have a problem with high oil temperature? Do you have an oil temperature gauge? Running oil too hot is bad but I would assume so would running oil too cold.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't have a problem, but you can never be too cool eh?

Seriously... with the addition of the supercharger, the whole system is running a smidge warmer... so I'm gonna redo the radiator, get some FAL fans, and add the oil cooler.

Out here in SoCal, the ambient temps @ the tracks tend to run 90-105* depending on the track.... so every bit helps.
 

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I don't have a problem, but you can never be too cool eh?

Seriously... with the addition of the supercharger, the whole system is running a smidge warmer... so I'm gonna redo the radiator, get some FAL fans, and add the oil cooler.

Out here in SoCal, the ambient temps @ the tracks tend to run 90-105* depending on the track.... so every bit helps.
What are your oil temps now? Are you relying on the SVT idiot light with a needle?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't have any gauge now. I'm merely building out at this moment... oil temp gauge will come with the build out.
 

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I don't have any gauge now. I'm merely building out at this moment... oil temp gauge will come with the build out.
You may say that you don't have a problem, but you do. You just don't know about it.
 

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I don't have any gauge now. I'm merely building out at this moment... oil temp gauge will come with the build out.
You may say that you don't have a problem, but you do. You just don't know about it.
Thats what I'm fearing.

All of my oil analysis from Blackstone Labs is coming back normal.... but I've not gotten the results from the first batch on the blower back.
 

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I don't have any gauge now. I'm merely building out at this moment... oil temp gauge will come with the build out.
You may say that you don't have a problem, but you do. You just don't know about it.
Either that or there is no problem. Either way get a gauge on that puppy before worrying about oil coolers
 

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I don't have any gauge now. I'm merely building out at this moment... oil temp gauge will come with the build out.
You may say that you don't have a problem, but you do. You just don't know about it.
Either that or there is no problem. Either way get a gauge on that puppy before worrying about oil coolers
I have hit ~300° naturally aspirated. That is a problem. It might not be causing any right now, but it is not the right temp for oil to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK I ordered the setup from SPMotorsports.com.... $105 for the setup. Talked to the techs today who said the sandwich plate is only an inch thick which should allow enough room for standard filter.
 

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OK I ordered the setup from SPMotorsports.com.... $105 for the setup. Talked to the techs today who said the sandwich plate is only an inch thick which should allow enough room for standard filter.
At that thickness, I imagine that it is not thermostatically controlled. On a dual purpose car with an oil-to-air cooler, my opinion is that is a must. Driving around daily with 140° oil is no better than going on track and having it run twice that.

FWIW, and I figure most of you know, you can use the small block Ford (FL-1A Motorcraft) on your Focus Zetec without a problem. Nice increase in area and a lot more types available, like Mobil 1. Adding a plate adapter might end that.
 

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FWIW, and I figure most of you know, you can use the small block Ford (FL-1A Motorcraft) on your Focus Zetec without a problem. Nice increase in area and a lot more types available, like Mobil 1. Adding a plate adapter might end that.
That's the first I've heard of that. Interesting...I'm wondering if the 'internal workings' (<---short for all the stuff I don't know about oil filters) in the FL-1A are comparable to the standard Zetec filter? Only reason I'm asking is that I've read somewhere that a filter was not just a filter and that it had to be built to specific characteristics for the engine oiling system. It was at least a year ago on here that I remember reading the thread so my mind may be a little fuzzy. Am I way off base here???



Driving around daily with 140° oil is no better than going on track and having it run twice that.
Almost the exact same reason why I still run the OEM thermostat.
 

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FWIW, and I figure most of you know, you can use the small block Ford (FL-1A Motorcraft) on your Focus Zetec without a problem. Nice increase in area and a lot more types available, like Mobil 1. Adding a plate adapter might end that.
That's the first I've heard of that. Interesting...I'm wondering if the 'internal workings' (<---short for all the stuff I don't know about oil filters) in the FL-1A are comparable to the standard Zetec filter? Only reason I'm asking is that I've read somewhere that a filter was not just a filter and that it had to be built to specific characteristics for the engine oiling system. It was at least a year ago on here that I remember reading the thread so my mind may be a little fuzzy. Am I way off base here???
The bypass settings are approximately the same, the function of said valve is identical as is the location and function of the anti-drainback valve. Other than that, a filter is a filter is a filter.
 

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The bypass settings are approximately the same, the function of said valve is identical as is the location and function of the anti-drainback valve. Other than that, a filter is a filter is a filter.
OK, that's the 'internal workings' I remember hearing/reading about.


Have you successfully run said filter?

Also, anybody remember the [FJ] fate of that crazy wrap around finned heat sink oil filter cooler?
 
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