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Discussion Starter #1
I am burning a bit of oil when my oil is cool and I figured out it was my return line on my oil pan not high enough.. happens when i brake.. anyway

I bought a new oil pan and I was planning on fixing that but also was hoping to make a baffle in there and fix something up so that I dont starve the engine on a road course and that my drain hole was clear of "oil waves" that prevent it from draining properly..

Do any of you have any experience designing a simple baffle system for similar purposes? I have not seen any vendors make on for my car but i have looked at some for other cars.. alot are for drag racing which isn't my goal.. for me, its to go left/right/brake and hard..

Any information would be great! I will post a picture later of what I had in mind just to fix my turbo oil drain...

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
this is what i was planning to do to fix the oil drain blow by problem.. not sure it would help me when racnig the car but that why i was asking for other tips..



is this a bad design? the blue lines (dark blue) are the additions that i would put on the oil pan.. of course.. the pan "wall" really isn't straight like that either but gives you an idea..
 

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DO you happen to remember the guy who posted about crank scapers awhile back? His name is Kevin Johnson and knows quite a bit about making trap doors and baffles as well as Teflon crank scrapers for our car. Might not hurt trying to get in touch with him. If you're interested, I'll dig through my G-Mail account and find his email address for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i have no clue who that is and don't remember the thread/post.. I will search though

yeah his email would be great!

Thanks for your help.. I was hoping someone might have thought about it or done it on there cars for auto-x, road racing...
 

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Just raise the return line up to the Aluminium girdle it drains in above the oil pump pick up and you wont have oil being pushed back up the line and you wont have to put in any baffles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i just dont like the idea of drilling through the skirt, and also i'll need to find new fittings to mount on there.. not sure what is used by those who put it there..
 

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I have my drain line in the top of my oil pan, and I've never had a problem. How big is your drain line? I don't think it the placement on the oil pan that is your problem. Also, where is the placement of your turbo?
 

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WWAAYY too many people have theres in the pan without troubles, including myself. I seriously doubt thats your problems. Heck, stock turbo cars drain that way, I don't see why people think its a problem?

Scott
 

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WWAAYY too many people have theres in the pan without troubles, including myself. I seriously doubt thats your problems. Heck, stock turbo cars drain that way, I don't see why people think its a problem?

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My drain line is 1/2" barb fitting both on the pan and coming out of the turbo and the one on the pan comes out 90degrees from the pan "wall" and then goes up 45degrees (towards turbo). Using rubber high pressure (300psi) water/oil/fuel hose.. about 6-8" long.. there's no "kink" in the hose and there should be enough gravity specially compared to say turbo tom's oil return setup (which works fine). Turbo is mounted on the stock manifold with an adapter plate. I doupt that its caus its in the pan too and thats why i don't want to drill in the skirt since i know it works and has worked for years on other focus.. also i am not using the deepest "dent" in the pan for the fitting.. its on the flat spot..

troy: do you have a picture of how high it is on the pan? i took the flat part and had the fitting welded on from the inside caus the welder couldn't get his tig between the lip of the pan and the fitting.. I'm thinking the welds on the inside "might" be blocking a bit of flow but thats all i have.. right now the only way that im not getting blow by when the car is hot is by reducing the pressure feeding the turbo but still when ill start the car cold, i'll get a bit of smoke anyway til it gets thiner..

I was just thinking of a baffle type to elimate the problem period. And also the fact that i road race but i've never been with the turbo this year.. i just want to make sure it won't caus any problems there either with the hard braknig and turning.. although i have not heard of anyone on here doing this type of modification..

Eggyolk: Thanks for the information!

Looking at this picture, you can clearly see that he's at the furthest from the center of the pan as he could be (and also the first place where the oil will be sitting on hard braking) and the nipple is as high if not lower than mine.. the hose is also going down and then up a bit and horizontal for a few inches.. so really, i have no clue why i'd have trouble and not them..
except for the fact that he uses 5/8"..


i onyl used his picture caus its the only one i had off hand
 

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For the oil drain, I say switch to 5/8" or even 3/4". If you want an idea how restrictive 1/2" is, try running some cold oil through the line. Since you said it's only a problem when the car is cold, I'd bet good money that a larger-diameter drain line (and fittings) will fix the problem.

For the anti-surge baffling, I suggest asking around in the Road/Rally/Auto-X forum to see what other 'Jetters are doing. I've never heard of any oil starvation problems with the Zetec, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to modding a Focus for competition, so I dunno.
 

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Mine's in the same place, on the flat spot. No problems here. I used the 5/8" silicone hose that atp sells.

 

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Also by the looks of it, your hose has a "dip" in it whare the oil actually has to go uphill slightly to get to the pan, that doesnt help. I would DEFF switch to 5/8. I run braided 10an lines with a 90* off the turbo and a 45* on the pan. I'll see if I can dig up a pic.


Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hehe you guys.. that's tom's return line.. it works fine.. that's what i was pointing out.. that his, even with that length and orientation still works

alright I guess i'll have to find a new fitting hopefully fix my problem.. I just don't see how 1/8" could make that much of a difference.. its still way bigger than the oil feed too.. but anyway, still probably the easiest solution. for those who have welded a bung or fitting in.. does it go through like half way in and welded in the middle (at the pan wall) or is it just the tip of the fitting thats inside and welded there at the tip..

as for preventing starvation.. I think you're right Dudley, I might just go and ask those guys..

Thanks guys..
 

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Hi,

I apologize for being away so long. I just belatedly replied to a PM from three months ago. I am a member of at least 100 forums since we cover so many engines and thought I had set the Focaljet options correctly to notify me (obviously not). I am presently preparing the sumps that I promised to give away. Sorry for the delay. We simply got very, very busy.

Re the return line, if you check the capacity of the steel lower pan it is almost exactly three quarts in a four plus quart capacity engine. Granted, about a quart of oil is moving around the engine when it is running but I suspect that Ford took this into account as otherwise the oil level would be within the swept aluminum bulkhead area during running. Translated, that means that lower steel sump is running very full.

It also means that a return oil line to the steel pan is not optimal. Sure, it is easier to do. Why is it not optimal? It makes oil more likely to back up the tube during car movements and, more importantly, a turbo entrains air in the oil that passes through it. If you position the return to above the surface level of the reservoir you will allow the antifoam components of the blend to remove some of that entrained air before it gets drawn into the pump pickup. If it is released subsurface then it gets quickly drawn in, bubbles and all.

An ideal location would be through the side of the bulkhead but beneath the windage tray portion so that the oil spreads out on the surface of the reservoir. Even better would be a location above the shallow portion of the steel pan. More ability to shed entrained air.

We have a horizontal surge baffle that covers the lower sump and which the pickup tube passes through. It has a vertical baffle that segregates the lower pan with an incorporated swinging trap door. Same kind of deal that we make for the SRT4 2.4 etc. I will snap some pics.

Kevin

For the oil drain, I say switch to 5/8" or even 3/4". If you want an idea how restrictive 1/2" is, try running some cold oil through the line. Since you said it's only a problem when the car is cold, I'd bet good money that a larger-diameter drain line (and fittings) will fix the problem.

For the anti-surge baffling, I suggest asking around in the Road/Rally/Auto-X forum to see what other 'Jetters are doing. I've never heard of any oil starvation problems with the Zetec, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to modding a Focus for competition, so I dunno.
 

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Oil pan baffle:







 

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Discussion Starter #20
if the oil return was in the bulkhead (skirt im assuming like the vortech system) as you mention .. wouldn't the surge baffle be a bit useless ? not useless useless but i mean most of the oil would stay in the pan and at least in the area of the pickup.. oil return would not caus any more problems thats for sure.. i was just trying to avoid doing it through there.. im still not sure how people actually mount a fitting there

what if i had the return line in the "slim part" of the steel pan (where you have the swiging door).. ok it might not be ideal..
 
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