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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my 03 SVTF EAP and after motoring for ~45 mins, the engine gets really hot and the oil temperature gague skyrockets up to an unsafe level. I have cought it every time and pulled over to cool things down. After going 55mph for 20 mins, then stop-&-go traffic, the temps go crazy hot. ??????

What could be causing this problem? Still under warranty and heading to the dealer on Tuesday but I would like to have an idea before I go to the stealership. Thanks.
 

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that guage is really not measuring oil temp....was a thread about it a few years ago....basically it is reading several things, such as water temp,engine speed etc....when i am in a long race i just ignore factory pressure and temp guages..
 

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And isn't the oil pressure gauge pretty much a small tach?

They look cool- but I'd have paid another $50 or for some FUNCTIONAL GAUGES.
 

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Yeah those guages are just dummy gauges. So if you want accurate ones then you have to go aftermarket.
 

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Sounds like the fans are not coming on. If the thermostat was bad, it would overheat rite quick. If 20min on the highway has temps at normal, and then you stop and things get hot....your fan/s are not working.

Oh, I don't buy the oil pressure guage being fake. If you change oil viscosity....the needle will show more or less pressure. Just like a real one!

The oil temp guage on the other hand just might be more of an idiot guage than a real measurement of actual temps.
 

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First a disclaimer: I may very well be talking out of my ass.

How about your coolant temp gauge? In my experience the coolant tends to get hot quicker than the oil. Any problems there? Have you checked your fluid levels? Too much or too little oil might cause your problem. Take a look under the car at the radiator just in case too to make sure it's not blocked.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The radiator seems fine, the oil level is good, the coolant level is also good. The oil pressure gague appears to be working properly with fluxuating reading at different speeds. The fans will kick on only when the engine temp and cooling temp guages are maxed out (in the red). When the AC is on this is obviously augmenting my problem of higher temps. With it being so hot out and the engine running hotter I am affraid to do any damage. I hope it's just a bad thermostat or something simple.

What is this about the guages being fake? Why would they put them in if they were not useful? I have tried searching the site for info, but haven't found any. I dont want to F-up my new SVT. Thank you for the replies and keep the input coming.
 

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My fans will come on when the coolant needle is reading about half way. It really doesn't move much, if at all, when sitting in traffic and the fans are coming on and off.

You are saying that at highway speeds, the temps are normal....meaning the needles are reading about a middle reading...yes? Or, are they reading high but just not into the red?

If the temperature sending unit is faulty, it could be showing an abnormally high reading while the engine is actually running fine. The fans operate off of a different sensor that it independant of the gage....I think.

It looks like an either-or situation...either the engine is operating fine (fans OK)and the gages are reading high (unlikely..most gage failure mode is to read low), or the gages are correct and the thing is running hot because the fans are not working properly or the thermostat is bad.

If the thermostat is bad, the engine will be overheating out on the highway. In that scenerio, the fans should come on when the gages are showing half-way or just above.

We need some detailed answers to the questions above to nail this down. Also, please start the engine from cold and hold onto the upper radiator hose while it warms up. Have someone watch the temp gage while you do this or go back and forth feeling the hose and watching the gage. When the thermostat opens you will FEEL the hose get really hot! Where is the gage when this happens? It should be in the middle reading. If higher than that, the thermostat is bad. Period. If it is in the middle reading, the fans should kick on before it gets more than a couple needle widths hotter. Any later than that (assuming things are normal to this point) means the fan switch is bad.

So, please do some testing and we will get this fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At speed the needles are reading normal levels with periods or raised levels not all the way pegged until I stop or slow down.

Fans do not kick on until needles are pegged at the highest temp reading. Fan will cycle on then turn off. Needle does drop for short period of time before rising again and fan kicks on... repeat cycle. Fans do not turn on when reading just above half only when needle is maxed out.

By the sounds of it I think it may be a bad thermostat. I will have to try to hose technique of diagnosing you mentioned and see if that is different.

Expansion tank for radiator also gets VERY hot as well as the entire engine compartment. I know it's supposed to be warm, but it is really HOT.

Got appointment for Tuesday at the dealer and it's only 10 miles away. I can make that trip and drive the Rover around till then.

Note: I have a 5 speed LR Discovery and going from the SVT to the LR... WOW what a smooth shift and clutch feel. I know it's like comparing apples to concrete, but thought I would share that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE:
I took my SVTF to the dealer and they tell me they are ordering a new instrument cluster. I asked them how they determined the instruments were bad. The dealer tells me they did not drive the car to try and achieve the raised temperatures, they did not run any other tests on the thermostat or on the oil temperature sending unit.

Yeah, you heard that right. The dealer basically assumed the guages were wrong and are getting a new set. If that is the case then fine, but at least humor me and make sure that is the problem. Conclusions after no real testing or diagnosis?? Needless to say but, once I get my car back tomorrow I am not going back to that dealer.
 

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That seems strange that they would handle it that way. I would look into a different dealer. One that actually cares to find out what the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does the same thing with AC on or not and whether it's 90+ degrees out or 65 and raining.

I just read the thread about guages not being attached to antyhing but the ECU... I'm not so sure about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
(if I knew where to look, I would)

But... Then what are the guages reading? Where are they getting their data?
 

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here's the old thread with the info *linky-dink* ...someone called up svt and got an explanation. Short quote from the thread:

Huge developments!! But still no answer. Mark from SVT called me this morning (08/05). Yes you read that correctly… Mark called me back. (Bonus points for SVT!)

Anyway, Mark tells me that the “Oil Temp” gauge has nothing to do with the oil temp. In fact, there is no oil temp sensor on the car. This gauge uses three main readings: Radiator Fluid temp, Intake charge (ambient air temp), and duty cycle (RPM). With these readings it calculates the conditions the car is running in and, at predetermined points, warns the driver of low risk, normal risk, high risk conditions that could possibly damage the engine. This could be why we were seeing such quick gauge movements from ¾ to Red.
one more:

Then you'll love this - The oil pressure gauge is bogus too. Right from the SVT gauge cluster description in the DVD version Ford service manual:
Oil Pressure Gauge (SVT Only)
There are two inputs required for correct oil pressure gauge operation. The first input to the instrument cluster is through hardwired circuitry to the oil pressure switch. The second input is the engine rpm, which comes from the PCM through the SCP or CAN communication network. When there is low oil pressure, the oil pressure switch opens and the instrument cluster micro-processor commands the oil pressure gauge into the low region of the gauge. When oil pressure is present the oil pressure switch closes, providing a ground to the instrument cluster and the instrument cluster micro-processor commands the oil pressure gauge into the appropriate region. The rpm signal allows the instrument cluster micro-processor to vary the needle position based upon the speed of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
"This gauge uses three main readings: Radiator Fluid temp, Intake charge (ambient air temp), and duty cycle (RPM). With these readings it calculates the conditions the car is running in and, at predetermined points, warns the driver of low risk, normal risk, high risk conditions that could possibly damage the engine"

If the Oil Temp reading is calculated with other factors then a high level on the oil temperature would indicate a high level on one (or all) of the other three variables.

My engine temp (gauge far left) is reading hot, therefore it would cause the oil temp gague to read hot. What determines the engine temp... thermostat? If the thermostat is bad or misreading and giving false input then of course, the oil temp will read wrong.
 

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IIRC, the engine temp gauge gets info from the cylinder head temperature sensor, it takes the temp of the coolant in the cylinder head.

The thermostat is a mechanical bit, it doesn't output anything, just opens and closes when it sees a certain temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Infra...

That was dated from 2003, nothing since then has been made to resolve this or make them more functional? What about the 2004's? Do their gagues work?

Am I the only one to take it to the dealer? Apparently this is a real problem, any TSB' on it? Has anyone done anything to correct it?

(I've tried searching, but the search method on this is really not too good and I got frustrated with the repeat finds)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
when it sees a certain temp.

Not trying to pick it apart.. but certain temp? How does it know what the temp is? There has to be something interpreting a temperature reading telling a valve to open.
 
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