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Discussion Starter #1
I have been having this problem for a few months now, during that time I have tried everything that I could think of. I have had it to two different Ford dealers, one said they didnt know what was wrong, and the other told me to "not worry about it".

I have since been on my own trying to fix it, I have tested all the wires from the MAF, o2 sensor, frps, and cam sensor to the PCM with a multimeter. They all look fine. I replaced the o2 sensor twice, and I have also replaced the MAF sensor, all of the fuel injectors, the PCM, the pcv valve, the FRPS, and I have tested the EVAP canister by sealing off the purge line. I have searched multiple times for vacuum and pcv leaks but havent found anything. I have searched the intake tubes for leaks as well, and even sealed it all together. Nothing I have tried above has fixed the problem, and I dont know what else to try. I'm at a total loss, and I have no idea what to look at next.

I know the car is running rich, there is black soot on the tailpipe, and when I pulled the spark plugs, it is there as well, and it is on all 4 of them, so I know that all of the cylinders are running rich. And yes, I have checked the spark plug gap as well.

I really hate to even think of this, but if I cant get it fixed soon, ill have to sell the car. I cant afford to keep running rich like this.

As far as mods, I have them listed below, but since I got my new PCM, I havent flashed on the tune. I dont think that an intake, exhaust and throttle body are causing the problem.

Anyone know of any other things that I may have missed?
 

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That code means "System too rich, bank #1"

That should help you narrow down your testing, at least. Maybe the injector itself is bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes I know what it means, and I already replaced all 4 injectors, and I can tell by the spark plugs that all cylinders are running rich
 

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if all 4 plugs are fouling then it isnt just one injector. the first step is to see what the PCM is commanding fromt he fuel pump and what the pump is actually doing. There should be a duty cycle to the fuel pump driver module from the PCM. if the duty cycle is 10%, that means the pump should be on 20% of the time. There is also a shut off signal and invalid signals but those arent important right now. If the pump and driver check out then the ignition system is likely at fault. Put a spark test plug on one of the wires and inspect the spark. It should be blue/purple with a a good audible snap to it. Orange is too weak.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
just wondering, how would I find out what the PCM is commanding from the fuel pump, and what the fuel pump is doing? I dont think that I can log that on my XCal 2
 

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well, you'll have to use a multimeter that measures duty cycle or an oscilliscope. Moniter this at the fuel pump driver module. the output of the driver should be a PWM that is, pulse width modulated. So using the 10% example, you'll see pulse widths of voltage that account for 20% of a cycle. (20% high, 80% low)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, ill have to test that out when i get a chance
 

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I see you have a 2004 - are you still under warranty? If so, and the dealers won't help, then go over their heads and get in touch with Ford's home office. I mean, if you're throwing a DTC and the dealer won't fix it, that's just not acceptable.

If you're out of warranty, my advice isn't much different - I'd take it to an independent shop instead of a dealer.

The xcal2 should be able to log just about everything you'll need to diagnose engine-related problems. But you could drive yourself crazy trying to diagnose this on your own. Your time might be better spent searching for a reputable shop.
 

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Hi,

How are you doing on your oil changes, and what did you do to that valve hose since you have K&N Intake? It might just might be your intake afterwards, give it some views on that one.

Replace your intake with stock, reset your ECM, (delete the code) and see what happens.

I’m sure you know, unplugging the + terminal from batteries won’t just delete the codes. So you will need OBDII scanner.

It’s all free.
 

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I use my scanner at work all the time and its only good for diagnosing about 2% of the problems that roll in. hell, sometimes the scanner points me in the wrong damn direction. Im more a fan of the old school methods of diagnosis. I use the scanner as a code reader and data streamer more than anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Dudley said:
I see you have a 2004 - are you still under warranty? If so, and the dealers won't help, then go over their heads and get in touch with Ford's home office. I mean, if you're throwing a DTC and the dealer won't fix it, that's just not acceptable.

If you're out of warranty, my advice isn't much different - I'd take it to an independent shop instead of a dealer.

The xcal2 should be able to log just about everything you'll need to diagnose engine-related problems. But you could drive yourself crazy trying to diagnose this on your own. Your time might be better spent searching for a reputable shop.
As far as warranty, no dealer will touch my car, I have had it to two different ones already, and they refused to cover it. They couldnt even find the problem (not that I think they really tried to) when I paid them to find it. The idiot who had the car before me had cut 4 of the wires to the PCM, and then reconnected them. Because the 4 wires have been cut Ford says they wont cover any of it under warrenty. I have checked and rechecked the wires to make sure they are right so many times it makes me ill. I resoldered them, and put two layers of heat shrink tubing over them. Then I even went so far as to test them multiple times to make absolute sure they are correct. I have been almost all through the car to make sure that no other wires were messed with, but I havent found anything.

I have also had an independent shop look at the car, but they didnt provide me with much help. Im going to try another shop next week if i still cant find the problem, and see if they cant find anything. Im going to try to use my multimeter to do the test TXFO was talking about, but I dont have an oscilliscope, so im going to have the shop test it with one just in case. I'm also having them check the timing, even though I doubt that could be causing it.

Focus126 said:
Hi,

How are you doing on your oil changes, and what did you do to that valve hose since you have K&N Intake? It might just might be your intake afterwards, give it some views on that one.

Replace your intake with stock, reset your ECM, (delete the code) and see what happens.

I’m sure you know, unplugging the + terminal from batteries won’t just delete the codes. So you will need OBDII scanner.

It’s all free.
I dont have my stock intake, the guy who had the car before me already had the intake and exhaust on the car, and as far as that vent hose, I blocked it and sealed it on the intake side, and got a small vent filter for the crankcase vent line, because I was wondering if the MAF was reading the crankcase vent line as a "leak", but that didnt do anything.

Just want to point out that if you disconnect the battery for like 20+ minutes you can clear the codes, but I have a scanner anyway.

What you mean by how am i doing my oil changes?:confused:


Thanks everyone for your input though:thumbup:
 

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When was the last time you cleaned your airfilter element and also the MAF sensor? Perhaps you got some oil on the MAF...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just replaced the MAF about a month ago, and i cleaned the filter before I got a new MAF sensor.

TXFO said:
if all 4 plugs are fouling then it isnt just one injector. the first step is to see what the PCM is commanding fromt he fuel pump and what the pump is actually doing. There should be a duty cycle to the fuel pump driver module from the PCM. if the duty cycle is 10%, that means the pump should be on 20% of the time. There is also a shut off signal and invalid signals but those arent important right now. If the pump and driver check out then the ignition system is likely at fault. Put a spark test plug on one of the wires and inspect the spark. It should be blue/purple with a a good audible snap to it. Orange is too weak.
I got around to testing my ignition yesterday and the spark looks white to me, maybe im colorblind or something, but I think its white. Also I didnt hear any snapping noise at all.
 

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have you tried replacing the plugs, wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
FocusSportVP said:
Just saw this.

You know, a custom file could be created so you don't get the code any more. It would require some laptop data logging with your XCal2, though.

I've dealt with this code on our turbo kits before, its not that hard to figure out and solve.
Wow that is cool I may have to do that

I ordered a new coil pack and wires from Steve, the spark plugs are new, so ill see if that works

otherwise ill be giving Randy a call....
 

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im getting this same code.


randy or any one, do u think u can help me out on this one. like for instance should i set my xcal2 a bit leaner or richer?

thx
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm pretty sure that that setting on the XCal2 only works for wide open throttle, but I would send a PM to randy, he has helped me out alot, hopefully he can just create me a program now to fix everything, and everything will be great
 

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true, but u can modify the .xtr files on your computer for idle, halft and WOT, im sure he can help me out but it will be like 100.00 or more.

im gonna talk to walter but his kind o busy with the group buy so i'll wait.
 
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