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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, tonight while out and cruizing, i keep runing into this problem, maybe someone can help me.

IF i go hard in 1st and shift to second at about 6800 rpm or so, and just shift fast and get back on the throttle, it kinda pops, pauses, bogs and goes again, obveously killing my acceleration when its most necesary


Does anyone know what this can be? Is it possibly the lighter flywheel? It doesnt seem like a shifting bog, its more like right after i shift and get back on the throttle HARD, it kinda pauses for a second, does a sort of backfire and then just takes off like all HELL

Or maybe its my whole fuel situation and the fact that im overworking the injectors and mafs???

I know its a broad question, but its kinda weird, i think this is 1 of the major things that slowed me down at the track and why i was so depresed, because now i can totally tell, it doesnt acelerate for a split second but then just takes off like i hit the n2o button...and ofcourse these precious seconds will kill u at the track, when the run is over in 14-15seconds...

anyone?
 

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i think it is a fuel issue. but hey, what the hell do i know?
 

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naz,
The same thing happened to me after my FC head install until I instaled my chip. I agree that it is a fuel issue. keep us posted on your situation becasue I am looking for a better solution myself becasue I am a little unsure of the diablas longevity considering their record on custom burns.
 

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If you are not running a chip you may be getting too close to the fuel cut, getting on the clutch before the gas is let up, bringing the rpms up alittle bit more, and cutting fuel.
 

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Naz you are RUNNING LEAN

if you go to the larger injectors and the recal. maf than you MUST use a chip ,by not useing a chip your load vs rpm maps will be off and this also will add timing ,the fuel scalers will also be off

And as for puting the A/F pickup in the o2 hole instead of in the tail pipe, this would depend on what type of A/F unit you are useing

We use the one going in the tail pipe but not from dynojet,we have tryed many more costly units that would not work in the tail pipe because they would not heat up enough or they had to be pulled by vacume over to a box

We have tested ours in the o2 and at the tail pipe and there is no diff. so please dont make it sound like all the ones that go in the tail pipe dont work or they are not as accurate

tom
 

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You are also running a stock PCM. You could be seeing a combination of things including tip-in retard, which causes the ignition timing to pull back as the driver hits the throttle more aggressively and during shifts.

This article was written about Mustangs, but it is the same strategy for the Focus.
EEC Stuff

The best way around it is a CHIP. Your re-calibrated MAF is going to screw you too.
 

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Does the backfire (pop noise) sound like it is coming from up front, or out the tailpipe?

The following is a broad generalization, but see if one of these matches your symptoms:

A) If it pops out the intake when you step on the gas, it is running too lean. Usually this is accompanied by a hesitation, and then normal power resumes.

B) If it pops out the exhaust when you lift off the gas, it is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust system, usually caused by a momentary rich condition when you shut the throttle but the injectors are still pumping in fuel for a fraction of a second
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by 1turbofocus:
Naz you are RUNNING LEAN

if you go to the larger injectors and the recal. maf than you MUST use a chip ,by not useing a chip your load vs rpm maps will be off and this also will add timing ,the fuel scalers will also be off

And as for puting the A/F pickup in the o2 hole instead of in the tail pipe, this would depend on what type of A/F unit you are useing

We use the one going in the tail pipe but not from dynojet,we have tryed many more costly units that would not work in the tail pipe because they would not heat up enough or they had to be pulled by vacume over to a box

We have tested ours in the o2 and at the tail pipe and there is no diff. so please dont make it sound like all the ones that go in the tail pipe dont work or they are not as accurate

tom
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">TOM

I just got my 24lb injectors and i should have my calibrated MAFS by friday.

Im just gonna put em in straight up, im using the MAFTERBURNER to adjust my fuel on the dyno

The timing being off i dont mind, because i need higher timing anyways, im gonna check my timing after the install to see how high it is and maybe even increase it, i would like about 30-32* across the board, how much do you think a 24lb calibration will raise timing???

As far as fuel being mesed up, do you mean the map or do you just mean the a/f will be off?

Because if you just mean the a/f, i will be using the mafterburner on the dyno to adjust a/f, i dont want to do it with a chip because i want fine control of every part of the RPM range.

I think it will work out, what do you think?

Oh, and i hope 24lb injectors will be enough.

HERES A QUESTION TOM:

If my stock calibration mafs hits about 4.9 volts right now, what will the 24lb calibrate mafs hit at the same power levels???

Im guessing in the high 3.xx volts, am i right?

Nader has a 20lb calibrated mafs and it hits about 4.2 volts with a bit more power than me

thnx guys
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by techguy:
Does the backfire (pop noise) sound like it is coming from up front, or out the tailpipe?

The following is a broad generalization, but see if one of these matches your symptoms:

A) If it pops out the intake when you step on the gas, it is running too lean. Usually this is accompanied by a hesitation, and then normal power resumes.

B) If it pops out the exhaust when you lift off the gas, it is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust system, usually caused by a momentary rich condition when you shut the throttle but the injectors are still pumping in fuel for a fraction of a second
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">A

thnx man
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by Blue01Street:
You are also running a stock PCM. You could be seeing a combination of things including tip-in retard, which causes the ignition timing to pull back as the driver hits the throttle more aggressively and during shifts.

This article was written about Mustangs, but it is the same strategy for the Focus.
EEC Stuff

The best way around it is a CHIP. Your re-calibrated MAF is going to screw you too.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">but wouldnt the whole tip in thing do it even on a stock car? I never had the problem before i got the cams, head and intake manifold, so i am hoping its because of fuel and not timing, as i never really had the problem before.

Im gonna be getting a custom diablo chip at the end of the week with 1000rpm idle, softer revlimit, no speed governor, a set timing curve, NO FUEL MODS, and o2 sensor burned out.

Maybe that will help , i am going to be adjusting fuel with the mafterburner. I just dont trust the boys at diablo to EVER get my fuel right
 

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Originally posted by nazthug:
but wouldnt the whole tip in thing do it even on a stock car? I never had the problem before i got the cams, head and intake manifold, so i am hoping its because of fuel and not timing, as i never really had the problem before.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">You just answered your own question. When you change cams and go to a better flowing head you change the volumetric efficency of the engine. Your stock chip isn't equipped to handle all of that. Sure it looks good on the dyno, but tell me, how many shifts do you make during a dyno run? How many times do you get off and then back on the throttle during a dyno run?

The PCM looks at the TPS for more than just "how far is the throttle open?". It also "sees" how fast the throttle is opening and closing. The rate of change is used for fuel enrichment (like an accelerator pump on a carb), tip-in retard, and a few other little goodies that the PCM "thinks" about.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so i should do what exactly?? ANd please dont just say oh a yea, a custom chip, cause if u guys knew how that stuff works, its a bit more difficult to get those guys to do what is necesarry, and who knows how they do it.

I mean, what would they need to actually change on a chip to cure this?? If thats the problem...
 

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if you dont want diablo to do your chip then why dont have tom make one for you? I think you need to pick a solution. You cant run properly with your output and a stock ECU...it just isnt gonna work. There are tons of people telling you what must be done and you're either

A) not listening
or
B) dont want your car to run properly

you really need to make up your mind. Your last 2,000,000,000,000 threads have been about fueling issues and the same people keep telling you the same thing over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over again. I'm not normally one to complain but you either need to open your ears or open your mind...one of the two.
 

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So let me get this straight...

People tell you that you need a chip, you say you hate chip and won't get one...during all this your asking Mike and Tom for help and they are both helping you graciously

then 2 days later you decide to go ahead and get -a chip and get a diablo chip?!?!?
I meam, i know the guys over at diablo and all, let me tell you...they are all awsome over there, always helped me out whenever I needed and everything but
-have they done this on a focus?
-and why would you get a diablo when you know for sure, no questions about it, that Mike/Tom know their stuff and can make your car run right, period....no questions about it

even if you are just using their blank black chip I can't see what is driving you to get it over a chip from Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yeah man, sure thats what im doin...thats right, i want mike to print it out, send me the file so i can download em


relax man....

ANYWAYS>...i would love to get a chip from mike and spend $400 not knowing what goes into it.

HERE IS THE SITUATION brainiaks if u didnt read before.

Im taking care of fuel BY MYSELF with a mafterburner.

OTHER than fuel, and the basic idle, revlimit, speed limit removal, exactly what else would i get if i got a chip from mike

Do you see the math here? I dont walk around spending money for **** i might not need, i work hard for my money and i wanna get all i can out of it.

EVERYONE in they mama is saying, yeah, just call up diablo , tell em ur setup and they will make you a chip> BS..sorry, it doesnt work that way, and until you guys start learning more about chips and how it works at least with diablo and what you get, please dont tell me i dont know what im talking about.

Go ahead and get my setup, tell dialbo what you have and get a chip and see exactly how useless its going to be.

SO BACK ON TOPIC NOW...if i control fuel myself, is there really a need to spend another $400 or whatever on a chip from mike and if so, WHY??? Very basic question guys, if youre gonna come out and act all cool and jump the bandwagon save urself the time...please.

I am posting so much because im tired of people just saying the ordinary, UNIVERSAL stuff, like oh yeah, get a chip, oh yeah, get this or that calibrated...its not that simple guys, unfortunately.

MIKE, if im controlling fuel myself, i ask again, is there realy a need for a chip also? As far as timing, how much will my stock timing jump due to the 24 lb MAFS? I may use it to my advantage because i want to raise my timing anyways...
 
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