I could be wrong, but the other set of holes for the TPS if I remeber correctly are for those that have the ATX tranny. Those that do had to have FC re-drill the holes on the early model TB for ATX owners.
Also, the newest design is a completely new machined piece and the fit/finish is certainly an improvement, especially the linkage.
As for you strange idle problems, assuming you have the TPS is the correct holes, you still need to make sure you have disconnected your battery for 15 minutes or so to cause the computer to reset and relearn the idle and other driving parameters. If you have not done that, then that might explain the strange behavior.
Also, since it's used, what did you do for a gasket? If there's an air leak somewhere, that might also cause your strange idle behavior.
Even the "Gen 1" t/b fit and finish was fine,
to you for bashing what is a used part and who knows what it's been through, obviously did not have the instruction sheet since you didn't know what holes to use for your TPS, and may not have a new gasket...
One position is for the Atx the other for the manual. I also felt that the bar was too long etc and after carful checking found that actually their is nothing wrong but in all this i F***ed the TPS up if you over turn the TPS its had it it is very soft. Fit a new one and your problems will be gone. I worked this out by runnng her with out the TPS connected and all is well but for very high GAS usage and a few lights on the dash.
I had a first or second gen 65mm tb, and had that problem a couple of times, but it just went away.. don't know... But now I have their new 70mm one and the quality is A LOT better, the piece looks like it should be displayed, not put on a car...
The spring on the 70mm one is also stiffer, it isn't as touchy as my 65mm one was...
Ok, I got one from a friend used. As far as I know, he never had any problems with it.
First, can anyone tell me why the TPS has two sets of mounting screw holes? Is this an early generation thing?
I was having idle problems, and I did not want to mess with the adjustment screw. So, I figured I would rotate the TPS to the other screw holes(I just picked a spot, when I installed the sensor, the first time). This did nothing for the idle. So, I turned the idle screw in a tiny bit, until the car idled smoothly(about 750-800rpms). Then, on my way home from work I noticed something strange, the throttle was sticking between 2700-3500rpms. And not just sticking, if I held the clutch in, the rpms would gradually rise! It did this quite a few times. I would push in the clutch to down shift, the rpms would drop to about 2700, and stay. If I left the clutch in, and just rolled, the rpms would rise up to 3500 rpms! A blip on the throttle would quickly raise it, and let it fall back to around 2700, where it would rise back up to 3500. Twice I rolled in nuetral long enough for the rpms to drop back to idle. But, it took over 30 seconds each time.
Has anyone else had this type of problem?
Tomorrow, after work, I am going to pull the TB completely off. The main reason is, I think the butterfly shaft is a little bit too long. I think the TPS may be getting bound up with the shaft putting pressure on it. I want to measure the length of the stock shaft(as it sticks out for the TPS), and measure the same length on the FC. Also, I think I am going to bore out the edges of the socket where the TPS rests, because it does not want to sit exactly flush against the TB. The TPS not sitting flush may be part of the problem, but I doubt it. I had no "throttle sticking" problems until I re-clocked the TPS.
Has anyone at all, ahd any of the above mentioned problems, or noticed any of the above on their FC TB's?
Thanx for the input guys.
First, your pic helps alot. I had the TPS in the holes you have designated for the MTX the first time(I have the MTX). Last night when I switched it, I moved them(unknowingly) to the ATX holes.
Second, the gasket I had was in good shape so I used it with a little bit of spray on sealer to help. Today, I am going to pull the TB completely off to do some checking/adjusting, then use some gasket material to make a new gasket.
Third, when I bash the fit/finish of the TB I have, it's because of how poorly machined it looks. And that has nothing to be with it being used. It looks as if it may be an early Gen, and they were just punching out TB's for the sake of getting them out on the market before anyone else.
The picture you have posted looks 100% better as far as quality of the machine work goes. The new linkage looks 200% better than what is on mine.
Guys, thanx for your time. So far all my questions have been answered.
I'll post up if I have anything else.