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Discussion Starter #1
Do I absolutely have to remove the flexpipe to install the manifold or can I do the entire install from on top of the engine bay? Is there anything tricky or something I should watch out for when I go to install tomorrow?

Here is what I have so far:
1.) Depressurize fuel system
2.) Remove intake
3.) Remove tb
4.) Remove bolts on fuel rail
5.) Remove injectors & harness
6.) Remove fuel rail
7.) Mark and disconnect hoses and EGR
8.) Remove old manifold
9.) Reverse steps 8-1
10.) Finished

If anyone has anything to add or comment on please let me know as I would like to have as much info. as possible before the install.
Thanks

[ 03-27-2003, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: FOKC ]
 

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you got it right on the head man...

thats exactly what we did on KonaZXIII's manifold, just be careful when you're porting the manifold that you dont cut into the indent where the gasket material sits
 

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i was wondering where you got it from? ctracing? fc? and how do u depressurize the fuel system?
 

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you dont have to romove the flex pipe at all. When i did mine i got to the bottom mani bolt from under the car. i dont know if you will be able to get to them from the top.make sure to loosen up the egr tube before taking out the mani bolts. its pretty easy and strait forward you should not have any problems.
 

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Don't Call Me Gaga!
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I just did mine a couple weeks ago, entirely from the top.

I didn't disconnect any fuel lines, as I left the injectors in the fuel rail, and the fuel lines attached to the rail... I just pivoted it out of the way.

I also didn't have to remove any EGR components, except for the two bolts that attach the EGR to the manifold.

Even working from just above, it only took 2 1/2 hours while taking my time and enjoying an ice cold Coke.


As an FYI, install is much easier than removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the help. Let me get this straight, I dont have to remove the injectors I can just swivel the entire assembley out of the way? This is beginning to sound easier and easier. I thought I read in someones old post on this subject that it took them twelve hours to do the install!

To answer the earlier question I got an early 2000 ported intake manifold from ctracingdesign.com. The runners that connect to the block are ported and the top is ported to fit my FC TB.
 

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Don't Call Me Gaga!
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Yes... You carefully pull the fuel rail with injectors still installed out of the manifold.. There is plenty of extra fuel line to just lay the assembly off to the side on top of the passenger side strut tower.

I DID however remove the wiring from the injectors... The wiring gets in the way the most in this job.
 

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Don't Call Me Gaga!
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I just remembered one other thing.. The manifold is held in with five bolts, and two nuts... The two nuts at each end on a stud. On the alternator side, you'll need to unthread the stud to have enough clearance to get the manifold past the alternator. It uses an inverse torx head on the end of the stud, so you'll need to buy a torx socket to fit that. I was able to leave the driver's side stud in place, but you can remove it if you want.

There is also a little wiring holder/clip that is pressed onto the end of the stud on the alternator end. You can just pry it clear, and it'll snap back in place when you are done.

There is also one large vacuum line on the back of the manifold that has some annoying Ford hose clamp. I just replaced that with a normal hose clamp from the parts store, rather than risk having to reuse the Ford one.

The brake booster hose is also a little weird.. It has a little plastic tab ring that is outside of the hose.. I think it was red on the new one, black on the old one.. You push it INTO the manifold, and the hose pulls right out... otherwise you'll start prying and yelling and just break the thing. So remember when you get to it, to push the ring INWARD while pulling the hose OUTWARD.

 

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just did this myself with the help of Airforcefocus last weekend. I'd agree that all you have to do with the fuel rail is to unbolt it, pop out the injectors and push it out of the way... would have made my day easier.

The EGR, I would unbolt from the manifold rather than undo with the uber nut underneath. That was the bane of my existance on Saturday trying to get that thing back in.

As for hoses... they're pretty explanatory to put back where they belong. Omni was correct about the booster hose and the different colors on that damn clip.

Patience and a lot of handy tools are necessary. Getting to the lower bolts is a pain in the butt so have plenty of different length socket wrench extender bars on hand. Also we had a little magnetized thing-a-ma-bobber that was great for putting the bolts back into hard to reach areas!
 

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FOKC,

I have a question about your manifold. Earlier today I was porting my 2000 manifold. On the runners, right where the injector plugs in, there is a lip on the inside that protrudes down. Is this lip dremeled off?

If you had a pic of the inside of the runner that would help answer my question.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys - I got the manifold installed today and I thought everything went pretty smoothly until I fired it up. The idle shoots straight to 3500 RPMs and stays there for a couple of seconds then slowly comes down to about 1000 RPMs and then shoots straight back up to 3500 RPMs. I have tried disconnecting the battery and I have double checked all of the vacuum lines and electrical connections I really dont know what to do next besides yank the Diablo chip maybe that has something to do with it.

Please help if you can.

The car wasnt this way before the install and I really was very cautious when I was working.
 

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Check your TPS sensor on the side of your TB.
I had the same problem.
Turned out that I forgot to plug it back in.
 

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TPS may be an issue, but make sure to check the IACS. Did the new manifold come with the rubber gaskets? Did you transfer them over if it did not? You may be getting too much air in the manifold via a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The manifold came with rubber gaskets. Which one is the IAC valve?

There are a few things that I think could be causing this:

1) 2 out of the 4 bolts that hold the TB on the manifold would not tighten down flush with manifold. Could this cause a raised idle?

2) For some reason there wasnt very much slack on the connector for the TPS and I barely got it to
snap into place, so the wiring is really crimped to the side of the sensor. Could this be the cause?


[ 03-27-2003, 06:36 PM: Message edited by: FOKC ]
 

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Don't Call Me Gaga!
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Originally posted by FOKC:
1) 2 out of the 4 bolts that hold the TB on the manifold would not tighten down flush with manifold. Could this cause a raised idle?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Yes, that kind of air leak would cause some strange behavior. I noticed that those were damn hard to tighten, as they are self-threading screws, but if you put enough stank on it, they should screw down flush. I did a little shaking test as I went, and I noticed that you could move the TB around if they aren't fully seated.

That would be the first thing I check.
 

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Those throttle body screws are a nice PITA... but it is essential that they get down flush with the TB plate. If they do not then you will be sucking a ton of air in there... take some propane and find out just how much... or better yet... with the engine idling just put your fingers around there and feel the air being sucked in!

It takes some patience and a little elbow grease.. but you'll get em back in!

Did you plug the one extra hole on back or leave it open? Make sure that all the hoses and everything are tight.

Good luck!
 

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Originally posted by BUR_ZX3:
Did you plug the one extra hole on back or leave it open? Make sure that all the hoses and everything are tight.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Crap, I completely forgot to mention that! This too is critical! A little rubber cap from an autoparts store is all you need to plug it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The manifold came with the extra hole already plugged, so I can check that off the list of possibilites. I will see what I can do with the TB bolts in the morning when I get to work (I left the car in the garage out there). Two of the bolts were trying to strip on me so I might need to just get a whole new set of (4).

Thanks for all the help I hope I can get this little problem resolved tomorrow.
 
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