It really isn't that bad of a job, the biggest thing was cutting through the fitting on the line to replace it. Just takes steady hands in order to not damage the line.

 

now see this is exactly what I was looking for... what line fitting? what did you have to cut/replace?

 

Steve can sell you just the fitting, but you will have to cut the old one off the end of the line in order to replace it. Once it snaps into the pump, it's a one time deal.

 

http://forums.focaljet.com/ford-svt.../ford-svt-focus-headquarters/638257-power-steering-feeling-like-its-gone-2.html

 

ehr-muh-gherd :megusta:

 

Just ordered everything but the belt from Steve, thanks again everyone for your help, and thanks to the Dog from Orlando for the linky...

although now that I look at it I am even more confused... I suppose it will make more sense when I get to it...

 

Looks like I will be doing mine this weekend as well. All the fluid leaked out a few months ago, drove her a 4-5 times (short drives), put fluid in too check where the leak was coming from, and it wont take fluid. Guessing the pump failed? Looks to be a fairly straight forward replacement but we all know how that goes...

Thanks Steve we cut it just fine and got it off. Hacksaw believe it or not.

Got the new pump in filled the resovoir and turned left and right with fuse 12 pulled as stated until the resovoir stayed filled.

Still no power steering, no idea what the problem is. But driving around the fluid level still doesnt change.

Copied this from nvmaddog's thread. What is the deal with pulling "fuse 12"? Is that necessary?

 

Looks like I will be doing mine this weekend as well. All the fluid leaked out a few months ago, drove her a 4-5 times (short drives), put fluid in too check where the leak was coming from, and it wont take fluid. Guessing the pump failed? Looks to be a fairly straight forward replacement but we all know how that goes...



Copied this from nvmaddog's thread. What is the deal with pulling "fuse 12"? Is that necessary?

GOOD CALL! I wish we could "tag" people like on facebook so that Steve would know we need him lol

 

Lol right. I just sent Steve a PM asking him to check out this thread when he can. Hopefully he can check it out soon cuz I really need to get this done this weekend.

 

same thing here except my parts wont be here until next week and I will be doing it next weekend on a truncated schedule...

 

Ya it is next having a second car. My focus is no longer the daily so I can do it whenever which is so much nicer.

Whats taking so long for your parts to arrive? The local Oreilys had a cardone unit in stock so I am just gonna pick that up. Was $55 and comes with a limited lifetime warranty. Cant beat that!

 

you pull the fuse so the car won't start.

You can accomplish the same by holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor while cranking.

 

I'm here.

I'm not completely sure what question I'm answering though, is it about pulling the fuse?

I'm afraid I don't really have an "official" answer, The Ford manual has you using a vacuum pump and fluid reservoir to refill it which is how we did mine and it was super slick the way it worked and there was no bleeding of the system needed.

I'd link the Ford procedure but without the fittings it's not much good.

 

you pull the fuse so the car won't start.

You can accomplish the same by holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor while cranking.

Yes Steve that was the question I needed you to answer.

Don't you need the car to be running so that the power steering pump is on to bleed the system? Maybe thats a dumb question but I thought that is how it worked.

Lift front of car off ground.
Fill fluid reservoir.
Start engine.
Turn wheel lock to lock.
Refill reservoir.
Repeat untill all air bubbles are gone and fluid maintains steady level.

That's they way to do it correct without the vacuum methid mentioned above?

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

As long as you aren't running the pump dry you can do it that way.

 

Ok. I don't have access to a vacuum pump so this is the only way I can do it.

 

Here's my leak: it's not that bad but it's getting done like next month or so. New pump is 119.00 from piston ring and labour here at dodge with my discount it 130.00

Not bad at all lol

Sway bushings are goin in for 60$ Monday.

 

Based on the fact the drive belt side of the A/C compressor is wet, it would lead me to believe your P/S pump leak is coming from the shaft. It's better to diagnose a leaky P/S pump from under the hood, though; you'll have a better view of it.

 

Is it hard to DIY? Or better have a shop do it?

Ill take apic later when I'm off and upload it here

 

Super easy DIY.

Remove drive belt cover (two 8mm bolts on the frame rail)

Remove drive belt - super easy if you have one of those handy drive belt removal bars from Harbor Freight

Remove A/C compressor - four 13mm bolts - I use bailing wire to hold it out of the way while removing the P/S pump

Drain fluid from the P/S system - if you get one of those flex-shaft extensions for a drill and put an 8mm hex in the end, it's an easy way to spin the pump and push all the fluid out of the system. For completely failed pumps, disconnect the pressure line from the bottom of the pump and let it drain out (which is why you want to get the A/C compressor out of the way first).

Note: removing the pressure line is significantly easier if you have a long 3/8" extension and a set of metric crow's feet wrenches. Otherwise, I've seen people remove the passenger side headlight to gain access.

Disconnect input/output from pump

Remove pump (4 bolts)

Remove pulley from old pump and install on new pump

Reverse for installation except put the belt on next to last if you want to refill and bleed the system using the drill method I mentioned above. You'll have to have someone turn the wheel slowly from lock to lock as you're filling the system with fresh fluid. If not using the drill method, reassemble everything and pull the coil pack connection and pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to turn the pump while someone is turning the wheel from lock to lock. For expelling the old fluid, plug the return input on the reservoir with a vacuum line cap and have the return line purge into a plastic jug (the tall half gallon milk jugs work well because they're easier to fit in there).

Probably forgot something, but it's easy enough.

 

you can rent a vacuum pump at orielly

 

Hmmmm, I'll have to ask them when I pick up the pully puller.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

Ok, I can't get a pic but my friend agreed to help with repair

 

^^^Don't forget it uses a center flange puller. If you use a standard puller, you may jack the pulley; and you don't want that!

 

Awesome! I would have never known that. Mucb appreciated!

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

Do I need to drain system? I really don't want to, but can't I just clamp the hose and very quickly swap pumps, let the fluid drain I to and fill the new pump and top up fluid? Or how do I test or circulate the fluid? I don't know what I'm doing lol.

 

I cheat and don't even remove the A/C compressor and use a snubby wrench on the line (But it isn't much fun AT ALL)

 

You do want to flush the system. SVTs should be flushed every couple years anyway - gets real dirty real fast and our steering racks aren't cheap to replace.

COS - I did that once, but it seriously takes 5mins to unbolt the compressor and wire it up and out of the way.

 

Ok well I think I'm going to get the shop to do it cause I have a tendency to mess stuff up. It's only 240$ part I cluded so it's not that bad.

 

^^^Tell them you want a guarantee against leaks. I'd love to see a shop do this job right the first time. :lol:

 

I work at winnipeg dodge. Very reputable dealer. I know all the mechanics, I walk aroungd the bays all day taking out their scrap metal and emptying garbages. I talk to them all. They know what they're doing lol.

 

This job is a HUGE pain in the ass. How the crap do u get the lower two bolts off n the pressure line off?

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

okay, so Im bumping this thread, I haven't actually put my hands on the car itself, I have my good friend who is a mechanic doing it and I just cant wrap my head around why hes telling me that he needs a new line versus replacing the fitting does anyone have a picture of how the fitting and line connect together and to the pump? I'd hate to have to order a new line at 100$ from CFM because my buddy is being lazy and doesn't wanna cut the original fitting and as previously stated Im just not getting how this assembly goes together...

 

The line has a groove in it, the fitting has an o-ring and a lock ring inside so when you slip the line into the fitting it locks on and won't come off which is why you have to cut it off to remove it.

It's not fun but it's not brain surgery, I've done it myself without damaging the old line using a die grinder.

-Steve

 

It's like cutting the bearing race off of a hub, but the metal is a lot easier to get through than a hardened bearing race.