I don't know if it will take 20 seconds, but it's definitely a good idea to disable the fuel system and crank the engine until you've got oil pressure. I think that's standard procedure when starting up a rebuilt engine for the first time.

 

Ya, before you pressurize the fuel system remove a relay or fuse to the pump. Then you're all good.

 

And after you get it to start keep an eye on the coolant temp, sometimes it needs burped.

 

ok thanks for the help guys... so just unplug the fuel rail or pull the fuse and wait for the oil light to go out... right???

lead... what do you mean by burp? and how could i tell if it needs it??? im going to try and get a video of the final start

just incase something goes really bad atleast i can look back later (much later) and laugh about it

Drabert

 

just pull the fuse.

 

And if you want to be super-anal about it, you could pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over several times by hand (with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt) in order to prime the oil pump. I think I read that somewhere, but maybe I'm talkin' out of my butt.

 

I assume what Leadfoot is talking about is when you refill the radiator, sometimes you can build up a pocket of air in there, which has a different heat capacity than the coolant, so it could possibly run hotter than it should. When you burp the system, you just let air bubbles out of the radiator cap and add more coolant. Not sure if I'm describing it very well, as I've only done it once.

 

ok so for the burping just take off the cap and refill it once the car is started? no problem...

as for being anal

after 4 months of waiting to start this car i am going to be super anal just to make sure that nothing bad can possibly happen while im starting it for the first time... a few cranks on the crank pully dont sound to bad to me

ok another question... lets talk about oils... is it bad to start with synthetic or should i run something else for a few hundred maybe a thousand miles and then change to synthetic... its too late to go cheap with this car so im going to do whatever it takes to ensure a long engine life (except for the 20psi i hope to run on the engine) so any suggestions are greatly appreciated

thanks

Drabert

 

Damn Drabert! Did the green 2000 thing happen again? I swear man. Between you me and chromie....

 

ok so for the burping just take off the cap and refill it once the car is started? no problem...

as for being anal

after 4 months of waiting to start this car i am going to be super anal just to make sure that nothing bad can possibly happen while im starting it for the first time... a few cranks on the crank pully dont sound to bad to me

ok another question... lets talk about oils... is it bad to start with synthetic or should i run something else for a few hundred maybe a thousand miles and then change to synthetic... its too late to go cheap with this car so im going to do whatever it takes to ensure a long engine life (except for the 20psi i hope to run on the engine) so any suggestions are greatly appreciated

thanks

Drabert

I start with regular oil and run it with that for a couple hundred miles and change to synthetic. That's just what I do. And to the cooling system, sometimes you can get air lock in the system and the pump doesn't push any water through the block or at least not well and it causes you to overheat. So just watch the guages when she's warming up and breaking in.

 

I assume what Leadfoot is talking about is when you refill the radiator, sometimes you can build up a pocket of air in there, which has a different heat capacity than the coolant, so it could possibly run hotter than it should. When you burp the system, you just let air bubbles out of the radiator cap and add more coolant. Not sure if I'm describing it very well, as I've only done it once.

You have a radiator cap?!? LOL

Your right on though.
With air in the system your temp gage will go right to the top when it warms up. All you need to do is leave the reserve tank cap off when you start and squeeze the upper hose a few times right after it starts warming up. You should see some bubbles "burping" out of the system.

 

I would also start with regular oil for a short period of time and then switch after your first couple oil changes. I'm currently at 2200 miles myself on my motor and will be switching to synthetic at the 3k mark.

Whether 3000 is way too conservative, I don't know, but I don't see any harm in that. In addition to that, from all my observations, my third oil change at 3k will be a good point to switch.

 

I would also start with regular oil for a short period of time and then switch after your first couple oil changes. I'm currently at 2200 miles myself on my motor and will be switching to synthetic at the 3k mark.

Whether 3000 is way too conservative, I don't know, but I don't see any harm in that. In addition to that, from all my observations, my third oil change at 3k will be a good point to switch.

I've heard that this is a good thing to do before.

What is the reason for it?

 

I started my turbo kit off with SAE 40. It's the thickest oil I can find plus it adds extra protection during the break-in period.

 

I started my turbo kit off with SAE 40. It's the thickest oil I can find plus it adds extra protection during the break-in period.

since turbos have no break in period and all.... ;-)

 

Any engine component that requires oil for lubrication has a break-in period.

 

Any engine component that requires oil for lubrication has a break-in period.

turbos are built to extremely tight tolerances and have no break in period.

 

I've been an ASC certified mechanic for 12 years. Any engine component that requires oil for lubrication and/or cooling has a break-in period. I agree, turbos are manufactured with tight tolerances, but that doesn't mean that there's no break-in period. Think about it, friction is still an issue even with tight tolerances!

 

I've been an ASC certified mechanic for 12 years. Any engine component that requires oil for lubrication and/or cooling has a break-in period. I agree, turbos are manufactured with tight tolerances, but that doesn't mean that there's no break-in period. Think about it, friction is still an issue even with tight tolerances!

ASC, huh? You must be good. ;-)

 

ASC, huh? You must be good. ;-)

I think I'd rather be ASE certified.

 

ASC, huh? You must be good. ;-)

I think I'd rather be ASE certified.

Ooops....typo...I meant ASE certified. ASC stands for the Automotive Service Council of California of which I'm a member.