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First, some clarification: I think that these should be referred to as “Transmission Mounts” not Motor Mounts. They connect the bottom of the transmission to the front subframe, near the base of the firewall. Enough of that.

Overview:

The installation was very simple:
1. Remove bracket from car
2. Press out old bushings
3. Press in new bushings
4. Re-install bracket
5. Drive
6. Re-tighten

The Details:

1. Removal of the bracket. This step requires a 13mm socket or wrench. I removed the two bolts that obviously go through the bushings first. I then realized that to remove the bracket from the car, another bracket attached to the transmission would have to be removed. The bracket on the transmission has three bolts. Remove them all. Once the bracket with the bushings in it was out of the car, I immediately marked which side was the top. I don’t know if the orientation is critical, but it can’t hurt.
2. Press out old bushings. My first attempt consisted of a hammer and some blocks of wood. This method DOES NOT WORK! My second attempt consisted of a 50-ton hydraulic press. Easy! Proper support is required, but the factory bushings slide right out, undamaged.
3. Press in new bushings. Although no lube was supplied with the bushings, I was recommended to use lube for the insertion. I found some urethane specific lube in my bike toolbox, left over from urethane sprung forks. Make sure that whatever lube you use, it does not attack the urethane. This is important! I was going to use the press, but my hands pushing down on the table were enough to get the new bushings in. Using your hands allows for more control, too. Make sure that the metal core of the bushing is removed while pushing it in to the bracket. This makes the bushing suppler.
4. Re-installation of the brackets. The reverse of the removal. When I removed my bolts, it looked like Loc-Tite, or something similar, was used at the factory. I applied a moderate amount of Loc-Tite and reinstalled the brackets. I don’t know the factory recommended torque, and I don’t have a torque wrench. Mine are tight.
5. Drive. I drove very gently at first, progressing to a fair bit of aggression. No problems.
6. Re-tighten. After my test drive I checked all the bolts for tightness. No problems.

Impressions:

The moment the engine is turned over, you’ll know that things are different now. The car shakes a bit. It’s no big deal, but it’s noticeable. Once the car is warm and idling, the car shakes below about 900rpm. Again, it’s no big deal, but it’s noticeable. During gentle driving, the new bushings are completely transparent. With aggressive shifting, particularly the first to second shift, the car feels much more solid. On wet roads the wheel hop is substantially reduced, although certainly not removed. My unlimited slip differential probably doesn’t help this situation much. On gravel and snow the wheel hop is also reduced.

Conclusion:

The mounts are a great addition to your Focus. For me they were a fun mod, and I’m happy with the results. This summer I’ll see how they cope with some gravel rallying. Tony D at NewEdge provided excellent service, too.

Can you tell I'm in engineering?


Rex
 

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Cool, now if I can find some time to get mine on. About how long did it take to put them on?
 

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I like the way you wrote it. Much better than NAZ or me a few months back......If you start getting anoyed at the vibrations i found that
removing the spare and the jack took out most
of the vibes. Also Rob Sole wrote a how to fix
for the vibes so if ya wanna, search it up.


Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the kind words.

boostedfoci:
The install was probably only about 1 to 1.5 hours of labour. In my case it was spread over two days 'till I found the hydraulic press.

milan:
I think that I read about your two 1/2" holes, that sounds like a good idea. I'm getting a DiabloSport chip very soon, so hopefully I'm going to have the idle raised to about 900rpm, then I can leave the bushings intact. Like I said, my car's gonna be subjected to some gravel rally events this summer, so I want the strength.

Rex
 

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Great write-up. Thank you.
I have yet to do mine. Trying to figure out how I can use some C-clamps that I have to extract the bushings and press the new ones in.
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by FocusJeloSan:
Great write-up. Thank you.
I have yet to do mine. Trying to figure out how I can use some C-clamps that I have to extract the bushings and press the new ones in.
<hr></blockquote>

Jelo wait for me man!! I have to do mine too.. MOD PARTY!!!! LOL
 

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mine were easy. remove the mounts from the car & the bushings just insert into the existing mounts. the rear mount was hard to remove but i got it. then, re-install mounts back on the car. there is some vibration on my car, but, not anything like you're talking about.
 

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A press is a must to remove the factory bushings.

Can you say vvvviiiiibbbbbrrraaaattttiiiiooonnnnn????? Don't even talk to me about idle with AC on. Good god does this thing rattle and shake .. it's almost embarrasing when you have someone in your car and you change is rattling. I've often thought of putting the factory bushings back in due to the vibration.
 

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the hatch on my car sounds like its going to come off when i idle with the AC on. it RATTLES so LOUD!!!
 

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So where do I get a 50 ton press? The other option is paying the $120 for the premade one from focus tuning(I think). My friend had some urithane bushings put in his A-arms and it was $20 for each bushing just install and when they did it they junked the old ones!?
 

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Originally posted by Shmoges:
So where do I get a 50 ton press? The other option is paying the $120 for the premade one from focus tuning(I think). My friend had some urithane bushings put in his A-arms and it was $20 for each bushing just install and when they did it they junked the old ones!?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">On the Control Arms, the original ones HAVE to be Junked. They're attached to the arm.
We used a press for my Tranny-Mount bushings, but you could probably get away w/ a vise or other simple found tools.
At first, I noticed a SLIGHT increase in vibration. Now it's unnoticeable.
DO NOT Drill them!!!
That defeats the purpose of putting them in at all!!!!
 

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similar results on my SVTF with the Energy Suspension bushings but only a little vibration at idle. Definitely worth the effort and $$$.
$20 from any store than handles Energy Suspension parts.
 

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Hello,
I hope all is well. Let me tell everyone that drilling them is "A" ok. I did this over 6 months ago and I'm much happier. My wife even noticed that my car doesn't shake as much. Those things are really tough and hold up well. And a word to the wise don't be suprised if you order a chip with an increased idle and don't get it. I requested the increase in idle but got the shaft and got a regular chip. That is why I have two 1/2 holes in my mounts now. After a while those things get irritating. Ask Milan
But 6 months later I'm still happy with them. I wouldn't mislead anyone on the Jet we all have the same passion or disease

Later,
ROB SOLE
p.s. I'll give you a hint of where my diablo chip was from MN.
 

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My Prothane don't vibrate hardly at all.
By drilling, you are removing some of the solidity of the bushing, and the whole point of the Poly-U is to stiffen it up as much as possible w/o making it solid.
Maybe the ES bushings are more harsh?, but I have ZERO discomfort, even on 10+hr road trips w/ my Prothane parts from TonyD.
 

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Originally posted by MichaelXi:

DO NOT Drill them!!!
That defeats the purpose of putting them in at all!!!!
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">But what if the holes are perpendicular to the engine movement? That way, when the engine moves backwards, there is plenty of bushing. And with the holes on the side, you have some room for vibration. No?
 

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Well, You CAN drill them, but any loss of bushing material is a reduction in rigidity, resulting in a reduction in the energy transferred.
It's more "Comfy" to soften the bushings if you WANT to, but honestly, I'm unsure of the effect on the longevity of the bushing itself.
 

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So with stage 2 cams my car will be shaking like a lopey ass 454? I can't wait to put mine on.Thanks
 

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hey guys where can i get a good set of premade ones? the reason i want the premade ones is because i dont have access to a press so the only way i could get them done is by a machine shop. i just want to remove the old ones and put some new ones in that away i still have the old ones in taket if i need to put them back on for whatever reason. thanx for the help. by the way my focus is an svt if that makes any diff or not.
 
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