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I found a nice long 27mm open end wrench worked the best. Most cresents big enough to fit are so tight you can get them to turn. Even with the 27mm you'll be getting about 1/3 of a turn at a time. You can't take the manifold off first because the cat is blocking 3 of the bolts for the manifold. When you get to where you are reconnecting the EGR to the header you will need to do some care nudging and bending to get it lined up (get your self a third hand if at all possible) but you will have much easier access to the nut!


As for the car being cool. It doesn't have have to be cold just cool enough you don't injure yourself.

Oh and be sure to transfer the egr and o2 sensor fittings from the cat to the header before putting the header back on.

Other than those things be patient as the block is aluminum and crossthreading is easier. Have at least one good u-joint connector and some extentions for removeing the stock manifold.

[ 03-12-2003, 01:26 PM: Message edited by: Cameroon ]
 

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Inebriated Pecker Obstructionist
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We used a 1-1/16" wrench for ther EGR on mine. With the header on the car, bot removal, and install. Worked great, albiet a little slow, becuase you were only getting about 1/8th of a turn.
I would say take off the heat shield(when it's cool enough to touch), then start at the flex pipe, and work your way forward(Cat brackets, bottom and front, cat, then exhaust manifold). Then reverse the process when installing the race header.

Al
 

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When installing the race header, it might be a good idea to attach the EGR before bolting the header up. It took me forever to get that damn thing bent right since the location on the race header was a little bit different than the stock manifold. That should help save you some time.
 

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Originally posted by JNBlackZX3:
When installing the race header, it might be a good idea to attach the EGR before bolting the header up. It took me forever to get that damn thing bent right since the location on the race header was a little bit different than the stock manifold. That should help save you some time.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">No doubt! I forgot how much of a bitch it was to bend it back in place.

Justin, when re-installing the EGR, just pull it over with one hand, and get the nut started with the other. It may seem like you won't be able to do it, but you can. Be very careful nut to cross thread the nut on the EGR. Take your time, and make sure you get it on straight, before you hit it with the wrench.

Al
 

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Should you take out the bracket at end of the race header where it connects to the flex. I did this and think it is causing some rattle.
 

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Originally posted by BlackZx3inThornhill:
Should you take out the bracket at end of the race header where it connects to the flex. I did this and think it is causing some rattle.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">You need that bracket.
 

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I bent the EGR tube downward, and then loosened the header bolts on the head and under the car to allow for some movement. This was on a very old race header, which cracked. After multiple times taking the header on and off, I decided to weld the EGR nipple shut. That is one thing I wish I would have not done.
 

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I am installing my race header and i had a question. The EGR nut is a pain to get to does anyone haev any good ways to get to it. Im thinkin of takin the exhasut manifold off first so i can get my cresent wrench in the get it. also does the car need to be completely cool to do the race header? also is there any additional info i should need?

thanks,
 
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