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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace my rear wheel studs for longer ones to make room for spacers. I have the service DVD which has a "how to" on removing the complete drum and so forth but I'm looking for someone that has actuall experience with this on the rear drums and could provide any tips or easier ways to go about it.
 

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When I first started autocrossing I read several threads about stud failures. I didn't want the same problem so I bought ARP studs. The ARP part number is 100-7708 and is labeled "12mm x 1.5" Late Model GM WSK". For the rears I
- Jack up the rear and put it on jack stands.
- Release the parking break
- Look on the inboard side of the trailing arms and remove the four bolts (each side) holding the axle-stub and remove the axle/bearing/drum assembly in one piece.(you can remove the drum only by removing the wheel bearing cover and then removing the wheel bearing retaining nut but I couldn't see how to do it without buggering up the cover, as it's made of flimsy galvanized metal and has no lip to pry on or grab)
- Lay the drum right side up on a solid surface and hammer the old studs out.
- Flip the drum over and put the new studs through the holes and tap them in to get them started into the holes.
- Flip the drum back up and use a spacer and a wheel nut to "pull" the studs into final seated position. The spacer can be something like a couple of large nuts, a stack of washers or a short piece of pipe.
- Reassemble onto the car.

The hardest part is getting to the bolts that hold the axle stub to the trailing arm. If anyone wants to pitch in on how to do it more gracefully, go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Will hammering on the studs to get them out loosen anything inside the drum that I should be concerned about?
 

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Nope. The stub axle and bearings are held in place by the big nut on the other side. If you really want to salvage the old studs, screw on a sacrificial lugnut and hammer on the lugnut.
 

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Bring this one back for my svt focus. Need to replace front driver side wheel stud. Disc brakes up front (duh). Now, Is this difficut? Could some one give me a summary of the process? Having to replace one stud due to the fact I broke one in half trqn down one of my lug nuts. Thanks.
 

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just take the wheel off, remove the caliper, take off the rotor, then hammer out the stud....then slide the new one on, use like 10 washers and put on a lug and tighten it down on the washers, it'll pull the new stud right into place
 

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For DJSilver: If you remove the lower shock attach 1st, it makes the whole deal go 100% smoother. Right side w/out removing - 2 hrs. Left side w/ removing shock - 1 hr.
The hardest part was getting the bolts out after many salty winters.

~Paris
 

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When I first started autocrossing I read several threads about stud failures. I didn't want the same problem so I bought ARP studs. The ARP part number is 100-7708 and is labeled "12mm x 1.5" Late Model GM WSK". For the rears I
The hardest part is getting to the bolts that hold the axle stub to the trailing arm. If anyone wants to pitch in on how to do it more gracefully, go for it.
Yo DjSilver - are these APR studs the same size as the stock studs or a bit longer? I'd like to find some stronger studs but in the same length. Let me quick cuz I need to repair my rear stud before the big hurricane hits the MA area! I'm still running around with my Toyo RA-1's in the rear from this weekend's autoX event! It's not going to be pretty if the storm hits...
 
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