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Driver > Car
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Stock is a TTY, like 30ft lbs then 90 degrees or something. Works out to be fairly low. At least that's my exp with the SVT and Zetec blocks. Dura's might be different. Going with ARP studs you change the torque requirement anyway since it's a different material and the 'spring action' of the head bolts requires more clamping force.

To be honest tho, i'd just go with what jared said, he's got loads more experience than i do on this. FWIW my XR's torqued to 85ftlbs on the head studs.
 

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http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/151-4204.pdf

ARP recommends 60ftlbs, we have been going to 80 which seems to push up the threshold about 50ftlbs of torque or so before the head starts to lift. Like I said probably not a concern on the stock motor since the bottom end should let go long before you lift the head.
 

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Yeah, even with the Ranger bottom end I don't suspect head lifting to be an issue. I'll be using stock torque specs for now. I'll have to look into over-torquing for when I build a bottom end, though. You guys have been using Ranger cranks, I assume?
I installed a new ranger crank in my build with ARP hardware with no issues. But my bottom end and head is from an 05 ST.
 

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The Coupe had a GT28RS installed when I bought it from FSWerks back in 2010, I believe, and man did I love that turbo. Virtually no lag, low end torque, just a fun powerband to have on a car with a stock engine. The car only made about 220whp but man was it fun!

Once I got a hold of a tranmisson with a Quiafe LSD it turned into a different monster. Handling was excellent and tire spin decreased dramatically. I never installed the Cosworth intake manifold I bought for it but I wish did.

I agree though, you should get a Cosworth manifold.
 

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I'm just catching up on this thread...

Remember that a smaller turbine wheel doesn't always mean faster spool. A bigger turbine wheel with better geometry and efficiency can out-spool a smaller wheel that's more restrictive. The GTX2867R .82a/r and GTX3067R .63a/r will have little difference in spool time. If one is faster, it's the 30r. Yet, the GTX3067R will have much more potential in mid-high rpm due to the less restrictive hot side.

I also disagree with the bashing of the other brands. I recently witnessed a brand new GTX55R Garrett compressor wheel come apart on the 3rd pass on an Outlaw 10.5 drag car. I also know of another Outlaw 10.5 car running twin Precision turbos for 5 years now with no issues, including 2 class championships. Now I'm not saying that Garrett is bad, just saying that every brand has lemons. These other manufacturers have had issues when they first began due to the learning curve. They've learned and come a long way since those days. Nevertheless, you're gonna find brand loyalty anywhere you go.

Put a Cometic head gasket on it with ARP studs and tighten it to 75-80lbs. Done.

If you want to improve low rpm response with whichever turbo you choose, grab a set of adjustable cam gears and adjust your stock cams down to a 108 or even 106 LSA with a 104 to 102 ICL. This will increase dynamic pressure and response down low. Just be mindful that it will also decrease piston-to-valve clearance, increase overlap (though not enough to cause harm with the stock cams), and increase the liklihood of detonation.
 

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Potato Camera Operator
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Discussion Starter #48
Currently in the air between a Stack wideband gauge and the AEM UEGO. I like the Stack's aesthetic better, and I really like th eidea of having a high-quality part that isn't seen in every car on the planet; but the UEGO's ubiquitous use in the states combined with strong reputation are a very good argument in its favor.

Does anyone have an opinion on the two in comparison to each other?
 

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Potato Camera Operator
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Discussion Starter #51
-Charge pipes are in
-Turbo is mocked up (waiting on gaskets)
-Tune file is on the way
-A/C is removed

This week:
Start the car on test file
If it starts and idles, we will then take it up and down the road once or twice, then do the transmission/clutch.
Once the trans is done, we tune it for WOT at 12 and 15psi

After the tune is done:
I get it home and start building the splitter, rear seat delete, and hopefully have enough time/money left over for the front seats and trunk spoiler

Should be an interesting push to FR, but I think I'm in good shape. We'll see!
 
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