Ford Focus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
994 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Aside from looks what are the real benefits of paying the extra money for slotted/drilled rotors when they provide less performance???
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
17,312 Posts
None.

Don't buy into the marketing.
Any "Racecars" that use them ALSO change brakes for EVERY Event, if not More Often.
In the "Real World", including Racing on less than a Mega-Budget, they are not a good idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
822 Posts
From what I under stand is that they have better cooling effects then standard rotors. The amount of surface area that is removed from the Cross Drilled or Slotted is minimal and how little effect. At least that is what I understand it to be and what I have heard. Cooler rotors less warping, better breaking. Also I have heard that slotted and Drilled rotors help give "Escape Routes" for particles that get in the pad. Just my 2 cents
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
17,312 Posts
One addition....
Slotted rotors, with only 3 or so slots, MAY provide SOME benefits at a Track Day. There ARE Trade-Offs, but they may equal out in the long run.
Drilled/dimpled rotors are a waste of money for anything but show, IMO.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
17,312 Posts
From what I under stand is that they have better cooling effects then standard rotors. The amount of surface area that is removed from the Cross Drilled or Slotted is minimal and how little effect. At least that is what I understand it to be and what I have heard. Cooler rotors less warping, better breaking. Also I have heard that slotted and Drilled rotors help give "Escape Routes" for particles that get in the pad. Just my 2 cents
No Personal Disrespect, but what you are saying is exactly what the marketing guys will lead you to believe, and what the guys who have used them will tell you is false.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
17,312 Posts
Just to expand on that...
More metal = Greater heatsink capacity.
Less metal = Quicker gain and loss of temp.
More metal = More Strength
Less metal = More Brittle
Yes, the drilled rotors may shed heat more quickly, but they also GET HOT more quickly, AND they have less surface area for braking. (And also for Breaking...
)
IF there is an issue of gaseous buildup, (which totally varies from pad type to pad type), slots, (3 or so MAX), would be more than adequate without drilling the crap out of your surface area.
As I say, Racecars that use drilled ALSO replace them at least every race, if not after every on-track practice/qualifying/etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,587 Posts
Not sure how you support the statement that "...when they provide less performance..." but maybe you overheard,.....something. I'd like to see some evidence.
Those that want to argue this, show me the proof. Otherwise it's all opinion, and EVERYBODY has one and they're all different. Be yourself and don't ask people for what kind of opinion THEY think YOU should have.

Zinc dip/cad coating is an option (oh yes, oh dear, it costs money too!! DUH) that's really worth it, the Silver F2 Focus Performance car at last years SEMA didn't have this and those BIG seriously rusty brakes had to be embarrassing on a car that not only represents him, but also appears in front of a crowd representing a company. Rust = not good.

The rest is personal preference, face it. Do you like plain Jane? Get plain Jane, an engineer made them work and work well, if you're the kind of person that can't stand "standard" then don't settle for standard. Another engineer did same.... I went from 11.8" (SVT stock, not bad) to 13" (Baer Track kit) cross drilled/coated, and without a lot of calculating, I figure I have at least the same metal (likely more) but more cooling. My abuse of them is at around a year and a half now with a rave review, and with the observed wear I forsee the abuse continuing for a long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,983 Posts
Guys, I think Michael is just about 100% dead on here.

If you don't believe him, search for and read the "assclown" thread. Don't have time and couldn't find it but you can start here: Link

FYI - Somebody mentioned warping rotors. Come Michael, get on that.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
17,312 Posts
Whew!!!
I read about eleventybillion posts before giving up on that idiot NissanLunatic's ignorant refusal to see that he didn't understand anything.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
822 Posts
So after spending 3+ Hours reading that The whole Slotted and Cross Drilled realy are nothing more then cosmetics.

Question - The Kit the Stainlees Steel Brakes comes with Slotted front and rear rotors. Will it not realy matter with the fact that you are upgrading to a 13" front rotor and using Disk in the back. Along with 2 Pot front calipers. So from reading the article they still are more prone to craking. but does the fact that they are 13" 2 Pot Calipers over look that fact. And if they doo crak do they offer solid rotors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,247 Posts
So after spending 3+ Hours reading that The whole Slotted and Cross Drilled realy are nothing more then cosmetics.

Question - The Kit the Stainlees Steel Brakes comes with Slotted front and rear rotors. Will it not realy matter with the fact that you are upgrading to a 13" front rotor and using Disk in the back. Along with 2 Pot front calipers. So from reading the article they still are more prone to craking. but does the fact that they are 13" 2 Pot Calipers over look that fact. And if they doo crak do they offer solid rotors?
Under what conditions are you experiencing brake fade? Or, are you getting a big brake kit just for looks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
822 Posts
I do not own them. nor will i ever per say spend 2 grand on a front brake set up unless I have a Crazy 400 HP Drag focus that I am using as a daily driver or every week end at the track. The SVT are fine for me. so I could make the statement that with having a daily driver with some Auto cross and a drag trip here and their, The kits they offer are WAY over kill and in most cases I would never experiance craking, even if I some how won the lotto to pay for them.
 

·
MAKE IT RAIN! ... is that like [email protected](3+/ a [email protected]" and @
Joined
·
7,550 Posts
Ok wow, i just read that thread on the nissan forum... and I now feel stupider for having done so. The lunatic character was just completely stubborn and not understanding anything that was said... he just kept contradicting himself saying "ur proving my point." I feel like shooting myself. Ugh. I know very little about brakes but i CAN understand how Mike is right and I feel that him not being able to see that is rediculous, and whats worse is PEOPLE ARE FOLLOWING HIM, CALLING HIM THE MAN!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,488 Posts
ignorance is bliss

aw man, the laughs just keep coming tonight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,109 Posts
Don't still have them around, but I had proof.
I tried them once on a race car and they started cracking after second weekend. Problem is some heat cracking happens over time. With all the holes, once one starts, it doesn't have far to go to make a really big crack.. sort of connect-the-dots thing. Cross drilling was an attempt to vent gases YEARS ago when brakes were organic. Drilling gives more surfaces to start cracks, even chamfered like mine were. They might be an advantage if you aren't using ceramic/metallic pads, but will have to be replaced much more often. Sitting on the grid at Road Atlanta yesterday, I didn't see a single drilled rotor, including a really fast GT2 Porsche sitting on pole, or the GT1 Corvette beside it.
Those that want to argue this, show me the proof.
All you have to do is ask

from Tire Rack
IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.

While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if any products are used on the track they are not warrantable.

NOTE: BRAKES ARE A SAFETY CRITICAL PART OF A MOTOR VEHICLE.


c)NO SQUEALING, NONE, NONE, WHATSOEVER NO SQUEALING

Huh
20+ years of SCCA cornerworking and you can you could just about always tell when a car was coming at you with drilled rotors, since they would whistle as they came at you... Ok technically not a squeal, but much louder than solid disc.
Has to do with air passing over a small opening... Kinda like a whistle... or flute.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,983 Posts
Sitting on the grid at Road Atlanta yesterday, I didn't see a single drilled rotor, including a really fast GT2 Porsche sitting on pole, or the GT1 Corvette beside it.
Good real world back up.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top