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Discussion Starter #1
Here are a couple shots of the car. I rolled it out of the shop to rinse it off and take a few quick pics. So let me know what you think.

Curtis
O&C Racing


 

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looks sweet

can't wait to see it all finished

that rear shot with the dif. is just


 

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where did you pick those wheels up at?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Drew:
The wheels and tires came from Cy at Tire Rack. They are 18x7.5" 42mm offset with a 4x100mm bolt pattern. The rears are 18x9.5" with 50mm offset and 5x4.5" bolt pattern.

BlueSVT:
Yup, there SVT's.

Curtis
O&C Racing
 

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I like the tire width. Nice and wide. How does it feel on the road?
 

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what i wana see is a price. what engine? where did you get it? how much? trans, t-5, new/used and rebuilt? how much did it all cost you?
 

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Nice. What engine you guys planning on using? Carbruated or fuel injected? I am starting mine in 3-4 months, but am still trying to figure which motor and trans I want to go with, so I am just trying to get some ideas, that's all.
 

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I love it...that is beutiful man. How hard is it to do this project? I've calculated the cost of all the parts to be between like 9-12K or thereabouts. Is welding at all required to do this install? If it is not then I could do this and save a ton on labor.

Earl
 

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I love it...that is beutiful man. How hard is it to do this project? I've calculated the cost of all the parts to be between like 9-12K or thereabouts. Is welding at all required to do this install? If it is not then I could do this and save a ton on labor.

Earl
I do beleive that the kit is 100% drop in bolt on. I dont thiny any welding is required, althought it might deem necessary in some places.

I wanna make mine V8
 

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all I can say is wow....and to all those asking questions about the specs, etc...check out their homepage, it has ALOT of what you're looking for
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone for the comments.


No welding is "required" to convert the car over. The rear suspension mounting pieces have been welded to the body instead of drilling and bolting them. With our experience in Mustangs these mounting points get put under alot of stress during hard launches and banging gears.

We used a plasma cutter for most of the cutting on the car. You have to remove the factory spare tire well and surrounding sheet metal. The factory tunnel has to be removed both in the front and by the rear seat. There are some brackets that have to have their spot welds drilled out to remove.

In order to get the rear tires to fit we cut the front half of the inner wheel wells out, removed a good amount of the floor, and welded everything back in making sure the factory interior pieces would still fit.

The motor is a 347 stroker with Scat crank, rods, and JE pistons. The transmission is a new Z-spec Motorsport 2.95 first gear T-5. It will be fuel injected using an A9L Mustang computer and mass air wiring harness.

We really haven't sat down and added up the cost of the project yet. Just haven't had time to go through the folder and put everything in a speadsheet, so I can't give you an exact dollar amount. Not including the cost of buying the car new, you could easily buy another one with what's been put into it so far. That's just parts and doesn't include all the labor that this project has taken.

Curtis
O&C Racing
 

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I have a tremec 3550 that needs a rebuild for sale...

nice job man. Looks real good. would love to see some 1/4 mile times when it is done. I miss my v8.
 

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Thanks Curtis for the information, I guess I won't be following your route of using the engine and trans you have chosen for your project.
Something meaner is coming...
 

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I am planning on using the Ford Racing stroked 392 short block with APR heads. DiabloSport chip with switch map function, MSD DIS-7, and I might also add a 100 shot of nitrous direct port injection system. A T-56 transmission will take care of the drivetrain issue. The stock chasis will be ditched in favor for a tubular chasis. 9 inch solid rear, running 315s in the back. On the brakes, I am thinking about using AP Racing 6 pots at all corners with 14"F 13"R 2-pc rotors. Suspension setup will be similar to how Factory 5 approaches on their Cobra kit car.

It will be very different from your setup. I wanted to go with Ford Racing 302 block with a ATI or Procharger, but I say this to myself that I have a couple of forced induction cars, time to go with NA, so I had decided on the stroked 392 short bloack and the APR heads. I hope I will be making 500hp to the wheels on Sunoco pump 94.

Let me know what you think.
 
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