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Stripped cam gear bolts

3.4K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  yet another ZX3  
#1 ·
Well, I have quite a problem here. I was trying to install new cams and cam gears. The bolts on the cam gears were EXTREMELY tight. So tight that I actually bent the fins on the front of the Torx bit from trying to break em loose. The fins got bent back and stripped the bolts pretty bad. It also didn't help that the holes in the cam bolts were very very shallow.

So, I did get the exhaust bolt loose. But I couldn't break the intake bolt no matter what I did. Since the bolt on the exhaust was already loose... and I had been turning the crank over and such to try to get the torx bit on some less stripped threading, the cam got out of timing. Well, since I couldn't break the intake bolt free no matter what I did, I decided I would just forget it for now, and put everything back together.

Well, I failed to realize that the exhaust cam had been free turning. So when I tightened it back up... it was off. Pretty far off. I guesstimated that the exhaust cam is probably advanced 20 degrees or so now, if not more. And I cannot rebreak the exhuast bolt. I had even went out and bought a new torx bit, and I guess the metal on the very end is just too soft, it rounds over.

It does run, but very very badly. I of course am afraid to drive it. What are my options here?

Some things I've come up with for tomorrow:

1) I could just have it towed to the dealer, have them remove the stripped bolts and install my cam gears and cams for me. I estimated this would probably be a 500 dollar labor charge at least, because they would use the factory procedure for replacing cams, which is pretty darn involved.

2) Maybe I could just ask the dealer to replace the cam bolts for me, and then I could try again.

3) I considered welding an allen wrench or something similar to the bolts, getting them out, and then just buying some new ones. I had considered replacing them anyway because they are reportedly torque to yield bolts. Is there any reason that this would fail or put my engine in danger?

4) If welding to the bolts is a no-no, then I guess they'd have to be drilled out. Big pain and it might not even work.

If anyone has any more input or advice, I would really appreciate it. Right now I don't have a car and I really feel kind of sick to my stomach about the whole thing. Especially since so many people have put on cam gears and have never had a problem.

I'm a big guy, I put a LOT of force on these things. I've done udp, subframe bolts, you name it, all by hand no problem and I couldn't budge the cam bolts. The bolts simply gave way instead of loosening. I really couldn't understand why they would make the threads on the things so shallow.

If you need any more information just ask.

Edit: Okay I just remembered that the welding machine is shooting about a zillion volts, I don't think I'm going to weld anythign to the bolts
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How about dry ice? Ice the bolts down with dry ice maybe they'll shrink and break free? Is this possible?

[ 03-24-2002: Message edited by: FriendlyFocus ]</p>
 
#2 ·
What I would do......

I would first, go out buy new bolts, and maybe think of purchasing this, http://www.newedgeperformance.com/aemcamgearin.html so You can put the crank at TDC, then I would maybe try using the T55 required and You just have to make sure the bit is into the bolt as far as absolutely possible. If that doesn't work, get an allen socket of close size, preferebly slightly bigger, and hammer it into the bolt and break it free that way, of course the Dry ice idea may work. You could also do the welding trick, just make sure the battery is disconnected, the Airbags are atleast unplugged and the PCM unplugged.
 
#3 ·
We had to put mine on a vice and air hammer it out when they were stripped out.
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The are about $10 from Ford but be prepared to wait about 2 weeks for the new bolts. ALWAYS WATCH WHO IS DOING YOUR INSTALL!!
 
#5 ·
Jays2000ZX3 had this problem when we were trying to get cams out of his car. he used a dremel and like 20+ of the little disks to cut the bolt.. basically he made 4 cuts so the end was a square.. we were gonna use vise grips to get it off, but luckily after the 4th cut the bolt just fell out
 
#7 ·
if you are installing new cams and cam gears, why not just remove the cam with the gear on it and install the new stuff, just get new cam gear bolts.
 
#8 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by CTZX3:
if you are installing new cams and cam gears, why not just remove the cam with the gear on it and install the new stuff, just get new cam gear bolts.<hr></blockquote>

Core needed to be sent back in my case so I had to get the damn thing off!!!..
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#9 ·
Thanks for your help everyone. I thought I'd add my solution
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As I stated, I was installing cam gears... and CAMS. Think think think... a cookie for the person that sees where I'm going with this first
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I took off the bearing caps and simply lifted the entire cam/cam gear out of the car. I already had new oil seals and cam bolts. So I just installed the new stuff. The stock cam gears and cams shall remain forever joined
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#10 ·
Kind of related. I had to remove a Torx head bolt in an engine I put head gaskets on. Stripped the bolt and broke my Torx. Got out the air chisle and worked it out thata way. 1 ? Does Ford use loctite on these bolts? If so, by adding a little heat from a small propane torch to the bolt head that will loosen the loctite. Doesn't have to be cherry red or anywhere near that temp.

[ 03-27-2002: Message edited by: fruitport_focus ]</p>
 
#11 ·
Well, to be honest, on my first attempt The Torx started to deform..
I think undoing the bolts is really a two man job. I fabbed a forked holding tool for the gears - which my wife locked - then applied plenty of pressure towards the camshaft with my left hand whilst turning the breaker bar with my right.. no problems whatsoever.
I would not attempt this alone..