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Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally got my strut back and I'm ready to tackle the job again. What is the best way to install the top nut? The impact gun was a bad idea last time. A pair of vise grips to hold the shaft and a wrench? They are gaz struts with a top adjuster that spins inside the shaft and the shaft has a set of flats on the threaded part.
 

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I wouldn't want to use vise grips, because the teeth can damage the shaft.

use a small adjustable crescent wrench...
I have agx adjustable struts, I realize how delicate the mechanism to adjust the dampers is... Use extra care... I wish I had because I ended up scratching the hell out of the colored indicator plate to show what setting you using.
 

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A crescent wrench is prone to slipping.
What is IDEAL is a box-end wrench with an offset.
You may be able to get JUST the size you need w/o having to buy a full set.
One of my Koni's has some buggered threads, so I went to Lowe's and got some washers to sit down in the cup of the top strut mount to raise the nut out of the cup a bit.
Proper sizing of the washers is crucial so you don't have slop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
another quick question on the install. The driver side control arm easily drops low enough and the strut comes out without a struggle but then the passenger side seems limited by something. Maybe either the axle or the tie rod but its definitely not friction in the pinch bolt area. Anybody else experience this? I can get them in and out but that one side is a real pain.
 

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DoubleStuf™
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Yea, I JUST finished with that like, half an hour ago. Passenger side seemed like it had a little less room to play. It could just be the angle of the whole assembly though, 'cause when I put the keys in the ignition & turned the steering wheel around a bit it seemed like I got just enough extra room to get the strut out.
 
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