While I have seen my k&n FIPK adapted, and Egz's Volant, I'm not too sure I'd know where to look for those stock airbox pix either.
It shouldn't be hard. I ordered a variety of speaker port tubes to adapt from the inside of the airbox, down through a bored-out hole, and over the cut, and slightly re-shaped tip of the SVT part. The tube acts as a junction, jetting the air into the intake area like a slight funnel.
My plan is to cut the box as close as possible to the outlet for the snorkel, get the thing in there and use a heat gun to form a 1/4" lip on the end of the snorkel. Then use some epoxy, hi-temp silly-cone, or RTV gasket sealant on the outside of the air box to keep it in place. I'm just not sure what to use to seal it with, oh well there is always duct tape.
I did the same thing. I pulled out the air box, and cut a hole about the right size. Then I put the SVT snorkle in. The plugs fit it in the same holes as the stock one if I recall. That pretty much held it in place. I put the air box back in, but unfortunately the hole i cut was too big, so I cut up the old snorkle and used it to patch the hole. I sealed it with RTV silicone. Never had any problems since.
I posted this before a long time ago, but it it worth reposting. this is the best method for installing the SVT snorkle to the stock airbox, and requires virtually no cutting.
Needed: heat gun, dremel, work gloves
1. remove lower half of airbox from car
2. there will be support flanges on the outside of the tube that exits on bottom of airbox - cut them off with dremel so that it is round and smoothed out.
3. take your heat gun and heat up the end of the SVT snorkle until soft, but DON'T melt it.
4. put on the gloves and shape it until somewhat round.
5. reheat and soften the now round end of snorkle.
6. slip the snorkle end over the airbox tube. Form the snorkle around the tube, it should fit snug and perfect.
7. remove snorkl and let cool.
8. you should now have a nice tight fit.
9. reinstall airbox and assemble!
Use the heat gun on a medium setting. It is important to just get the plastic pliable, not melted. It shouldn't get sticky - if so, you're heating too much.
You will not need to use any sealant, the snorkle when slipped over the airbox tube while warm will fit around it quite snugly. It will be far more airtight than the stock snorkle, which goes inside the airbox tube.
There is a very slight bottleneck. Since the remolded SVT snorkle fits tightly around the outside of the tube, you will see only about a 2mm reduction in diameter. An extremely negligible effect on airflow. I would doubt that a dyno would even register a difference. I think that the goofy shape at the end of the SVT snorkle before reshaping it would be probably be worse for airflow.
Ok guys, I was thinking about doing this mod too, but I've got a dumb question for you. Wouldn't remolding the end of the snorkle to fit in the stock hole without cutting the airbox cause a "bottle neck" effect? I would think that cutting the airbox to allow the SVT snorkle to fit in with it's natural shape would allow more air into the box. Would that be right or wrong?