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Discussion Starter #1
ok, I'm getting a fidanza flywheel and am thinking about getting a spec stage 2 or 3 clutch... where would I find these chepest?
 

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I will *never* buy a spec clutch again. I had one for the Contour, it was the biggest piece of crap I've ever purchased. There was NO way to get a smooth start, I'm almost positive the clutch was defective.. it would violently shake the car when engaged.
 

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HELLAFRUSH
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^^ Perhaps it was supposed to do that. Many race clutches are insta-engage. There's no chance of creeping whatsoever.
 

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mine does the same thing. If i engage like i did with my stock clutch my car gets a nasty shake to it. Even if you giev it alot of gas and slowly release it does that. I thought something was wrong with it at first, but most people are telling me its teh combo of clutch and lightweight fly.

Ive learned to let off the clutch a bit quicker and still partially smooth driving, and its reduced bigtime, its just gonna take me some time to get use to it..
 

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^^ Perhaps it was supposed to do that. Many race clutches are insta-engage. There's no chance of creeping whatsoever.
:buzzer: wrong. Most spec clutches shudder. Mine did not shudder. Mine VIOLENTLY SHOOK THE CAR. The guy who put it in for me had done others and he was baffled.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
holy crap!!! that's not cool... I was looking for something with some grip, but not to the point where it makes for a rough ride... what aftermarket clutch would be better to go with the fidanza flywheel? I plan on FI within the next year to year and a half... so I need something with decent holding, but dont want to kill the smooth ride...
 

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I run the fidanza flywheel and the Spec 3 with a sprung disc. It chatters a little but I don´t mind. Live with it or buy a smoother clutch.

Make sure you buy a sprung hub disc for your 1 piece flywheel, CFM and their 16year old Instant messenger salesman wont warn you about that. CFM will also be dropshipping the clutch to you from SPEC directly. In the end it cost me more to deal with CFM than it would have if I had just called spec direct.

You could always call and talk to the guys at Spec, they´re pretty cool about it. If you´re super scared of a little clutch chatter, buy the stage 2 or stage 1. Both are fine clutches I´m sure and more than capable of handling a N/A svt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sweet thanks man... I'll give them a call now!thanks
 

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Some of you guys running the spec Stg 3... what the heck kind of mods do you have that necessitate this clutch??? that's a major HP torque clutch! Of course it's going to chatter, and possibly shake the car (not violently though, I think that's somethign else). But you cannot slip a ceramic disc clutch... just doesn't work. You have to really modify the way you drive to get these things to be even a little streetable... but they are not able to be driven in traffic!

I'm getting a spec Stg 3 because they are the only ones who actually upgrade the pressure plate instead of using the stock pressure plate.
 

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Im putting in the Spec STG 3 clutch, sprung with 4 puck design and Alum Flywheel on Saturday.
Some of you guys running the spec Stg 3... what the heck kind of mods do you have that necessitate this clutch??? that's a major HP torque clutch!
Im not running much HP, I just have a small T3/TO4e under the hood. im just sick of slipping my clutch in 6th gear
 

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Discussion Starter #12
would I be better off with a stage 1? also does anyone know if clutchmasters kits come with a new throw out bearing? their site says they do, but c-f-m says they dont...
 

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Im putting in the Spec STG 3 clutch, sprung with 4 puck design and Alum Flywheel on Saturday.
Some of you guys running the spec Stg 3... what the heck kind of mods do you have that necessitate this clutch??? that's a major HP torque clutch!
Im not running much HP, I just have a small T3/TO4e under the hood. im just sick of slipping my clutch in 6th gear
Bite Me Dual Charger boy!!!
 

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would I be better off with a stage 1? also does anyone know if clutchmasters kits come with a new throw out bearing? their site says they do, but c-f-m says they dont...
I have a spec stage 1 clutch. It is rated with a torque capacity of 299 ft-lbs. I believe that this will work for me even if I add a PW SC at some point in the future. Since I NEVER launch this car and work at making easy/smooth shifts up and down, I don't think there will be any issues in a road course application. On the street: no issues. My spec flywheel does clatter a bit though as you'd expect. Gotta wonder how long these lightweight flywheels will last.

IMHO: If you do not plan to launch your vehicle at the strip, I'd bet you will be much happier with a stage 1 clutch. However: YMMV.
 

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they are not able to be driven in traffic!
I hit bumper to bumper on a bi-weekly basis.

I was fine after getting used to it. I don´t think it´s any worse than the stock setup was in traffic. In fact, it´s easier because I don´t have that annoying huge surge from the stock flywheel launching the car forward when the clutch engages.

I´m not trying to say this a perfect street clutch, however, in my case I like it... chatter and all. It´s not like it chatters as much as the old Hayes long style leg-busters from the 70s.
 

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Than you are one in a million. I HATED driving my stage IV CM in traffic. And no way on Gods green earth is it easier than stock!
 

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I love my Clutchmasters stage 4, but definitely wouldn't recommend going that route unless you really needed it. Its definitely not as easy to drive as stock, but you learn around the fast engagement and within a couple days you "think" its nearly as easy as stock was. .

Also, people need to keep in mind that ceramic and kevlar clutches will glaze if they are used before coming up to temp. I.e. Stop-and-go traffic will kill, or drastically reduce your ceramic or kevlar clutches capabilities. They're great for racing, bad for commuting.

You need some level of an organic material if its going to be a daily driver. At least that's what I've been told.

Also, people need to keep in mind that though its "cool" to have a race clutch in the car, its not going to last anywhere close to as long as a stock clutch. Getting only 10k miles out of a race clutch and then needing to be replaced again is not unheard of.
 

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Both the Fidanza flywheel and the spec clutch are rebuildable by their respective manufacturers...

...if you can sit around waiting for two weeks while the car is on blocks.

As for easy, if you could revmatch with the old DM flywheel, than you´re the one in a million. The stocker was single handedly the worst combo I´ve ever had the displeasure of shifting during "spirited driving."

I doubt glazing would be much of a problem with the stage 3 since (I have a spec disc sitting on my desk right now) it looks like it´s got a ton of bronze in it. The ceramic is probably there as more of a bonding element as well as moderating the clutch engagement so it doesn´t grab like a full sintered bronze clutch.
 

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I feel you on that. I have the CM stg. 4 in mine and have had the pleasure of putting 12 k miles of highway driving on it since May. It is great except for the stop and go. It is just terrible in traffic.
 

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None of the aftermarket clutch systems for the SVTF will come with a throwout bearing. It is a hydraulic clutch setup and the Throwout bearing/cylinder are an assembly. You will have to get this from ford. I paid 99.00 for mine new.
 
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