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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short I would like to replace my fuel filter. I remember I posted this question some time ago. I did some searching but couldnt find the thread. So I thought Id re ask.

Fuel Filter
Part # FF686

All I remember is remove a fuse, turn on the car still it dies and replace the fuel filter.

Heres the thing I forgot all that information. Such as which fuse to remove, where the fuel filter is located etc. Please someone help me out and refresh my memory.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sweet. Ok sound stupid but when under my car where am I going to wanna look for my fuel filter? I know its right near the fuel tank. But besides that Im clueless again.
 

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Unfortunately, I'm not certain for you. I have a wagon and it's on the passenger side, but like 2/3 of the way to the very back of the car - in front of the wheel well. I recall just driving my car onto ramps and having slightly more than adequate room for the task, but I've got a small build.

Just have a rag handy to soak up the dribbles when you get ready to unhook the filter from its associated lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hmm I guess ill just have to find it while im under there. hehe
 

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I have two friends who are technicians at a Ford Dealership and a Mazda Dealership. I asked both if replacing the fuel filter will give me slightly better gas milage. Both said different answers. Whats the truth?

ADDED: Was talking with yet another friend who works at Ford. Asked him what the bolt size was on the bracket, he told me I needed a special tool? Is this true or what do I need?
 

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On my '02 I don't recall needing any exotic tools. Just a small socket to loosen a few bolts. However one of the plastic retainers was in an awkward spot, so it was hard to get leverage on it to loosen or tighten.

I can't say that I noticed anything different about my mileage. However, my mileage has always been damn good - I've never had a tank under 300 miles except a handful of occasions where I had gone to a drag strip.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good to know. Im making note of my milage before i replace the filter, then doing the same test again to see of any difference.

what size socket did you use?
 

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Ok, that's a stretch because I just don't know (bad memory). However, I could tell you a lot more when the weekend rolls around and I change my filter.
Sound good?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
haha i guess. replacing mine in the morning. i guess it wont be bad hehe. just wanted to know if u could recall. no biggie
 

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The only time that one might notice an improvement in fuel economy from changing a fuel filter is when the filter one is removing is almost clogged.

But that would merely result in inadequate fuel pressure; perhaps to the point of driveability problems that one should certainly notice...

So I'd say, no, one might not see a fuel economy improvement just from a filter change, but your fuel system and engine will be happier for it (hypothetically, a happier engine and fuel system should result in increased efficiency and therefore slightly better mileage...
).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Makes sense.

Im not doing this for fuel economy if that what some of you are thinking. Its just I have been experiancing some very mild and faint sputtering. A friend who works at Ford says that Focus's come in all the time with sputter, they usually just replace the fuelt filter and it fine. I do realize that it might be also a DPFE going out slowly. But I figure I mind as well take a step before I go out and go get a whole new DPFE.

If your thinking that my fuel injection system is getting clogged. I got it serviced (cleaned) not that long ago, along with a tranny flush. So hehe just taking a simple step in solving this annoyance.
 

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I did not think you were just shooting for t3h m1l3493...


Changing your fuel filter is just good maintenance.


As a matter of fact, Ford recommends fuel filter replacements every 30,000 miles, according to my '03 2.3 PZEV ZX3 Owner's Guide.
 

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Ok, so I did my 2nd one. At least it was a good refresher for me.

The fuse is #12 - a 15AMP blue blade-style fuse - and is located in the fuse bank in the engine bay. Now, looking at the manual and then the fuse bank, the layout is slightly counterintuitive - the fuse looks like it's in position 13 or something, but it should be the only 15AMP in that general vicinity (and style).

Check YOUR manual just to be safe.

When you have your car in position (I put my car on ramps in the rear, first), pull that fuse and then start the car. Give it a little gas - around 2k RPM for 10 second intervals and let it fall off. After a couple of those, you feel the car kind of choking. Repeat a few more times and then the car should just die. Try to start just to make sure and if it won't start up, then you should be ready to proceed. If you don't use ramps, jack up the rear and place stands at your desired height. You'll be focused on the passenger side, rear.

You need an 8mm socket and a 6 inch extension for the bolt holding the fuel filter bracket to the underside of the car.

When the filter/bracket is removed from the car, you need a 7mm socket for the bolt that clamps the bracket's cage around the filter.

Have a rag placed underneath the area on the passenger side where the filter is located. It will be just in front of the gas tank, maybe a foot inboard from the outside of the car.

There are two hoses that need to be taken off. They have white connectors. I took off the one nearby green connector hose just to have it out of my way. These connectors have U-shaped plastic fasteners. The "legs" of the U clamp must be pushed down/towards eachother so that the fastener can slide upward. Practice this with the green connector, since it is bigger and easier. The smaller white ones are a tiny-bit tougher, but doable.

HAVE THE RAGS READY and IN PLACE. When you release the white connectors, fuel will be trickling out.

Observe the filter. On one (towards the door) side, there is a 8" tube with white connectors on each end. I found it simpler to remove that tube from the car's fuel line as opposed to taking off the connector that meets the filter, itself. In fact, this helps you when take it down so that you can better recall how to orient the new filter.

Now, the bitch side (toward the center of the car) the same white connector is on the opposite side of the filter and it may be tough to get to so that you can use your fingers to get the mechanism to open. I was able to push one side of the connector down and then get the other side down. It took a few tries, nonetheless.

Once that's done, unbolt the bracket from the car with the 8mm socket. Piece of cake. Beware of fuel spill here and there. Once that's out, take the 7mm socket and open the bracket's cage. Take the old filter out - observe the FLOW arrow.

Put the new filter into the cage and bolt it down. Then, take the 8 inch tube off of the old filter and put it onto the new filter. Be sure that the little "tabs" on each end of the filter go all the way into the connector - otherwise it isn't secure and/or the clamp won't work.

Take the filter/bracket and connect the bitch side of the filter to the connector and secure the U fastener. Once that's on, you can either bolt the bracket to the car or connect the other 8-inch tube to the car's line and then bolt it up. Either way.

(At this time, I let the old filter drain into an oil container I have)

Do a little tug test on each connector to make sure each is affixed properly. If it's all set, then go back and put the 15AMP fuse back where it belongs.

Lower the car to the ground. Start it up. All systems go!
 
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