don't forget that our cars have VCT (variable cam timing)
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Ford was kind enough to vary production tolerances enough to leave some surprises for you.
![]()
The easiest way to time the engine is to use the crank pin and the cam plate. Once you are sure they are in sync (I'd test it with a screwdriver in #1 cylinder or, if you have time and care, you can degree the crank...), put the belt on carefully, making sure there is no pre-load on the intake cam.
If you have the timing belt off, try turning the intake cam pulley by hand. You'll see you can turn it one way but not the other. You don't want ANY preload on the cam whatsoever. Not even half a tooth. If the belt doesn't match up perfectly, try rotating one of the cams (again, NOT the pulley). There is enough slop between the two cam slots and the bar to allow for some cam rotation relative to one another.
You'll know immediately if the cam is off when you go to start it. The car will run, but crappy at best. It will sound like it has some wickedly huge cams and no power to back them up. It seems having the cam statically pre-loaded doesn't allow oil pressure to build up in the helix and the timing never gets adjusted properly, hence the poor running.
The easiest way to time the engine is to use the crank pin and the cam plate. Once you are sure they are in sync (I'd test it with a screwdriver in #1 cylinder or, if you have time and care, you can degree the crank...), put the belt on carefully, making sure there is no pre-load on the intake cam.
If you have the timing belt off, try turning the intake cam pulley by hand. You'll see you can turn it one way but not the other. You don't want ANY preload on the cam whatsoever. Not even half a tooth. If the belt doesn't match up perfectly, try rotating one of the cams (again, NOT the pulley). There is enough slop between the two cam slots and the bar to allow for some cam rotation relative to one another.
You'll know immediately if the cam is off when you go to start it. The car will run, but crappy at best. It will sound like it has some wickedly huge cams and no power to back them up. It seems having the cam statically pre-loaded doesn't allow oil pressure to build up in the helix and the timing never gets adjusted properly, hence the poor running.
I should also point out that if you need 100% accuracy, the only way to be certain is to degree the crank and use a dial indicator on each of the cams to ensure they are on overlap at TDC. I'm not sure what you have up your sleeve, so I won't comment on your need for accuracy, BUT typically using the crank pin and cam plate as I mentioned above will be more than adequate.
my upcoming install is noting special... it's nothing anyone hasn't done before. i am installing a vortech.
the reason i want to know if my timing is accurate is because of the glowing header issue i had/am having after i returned the car to stock after i took the JRSC off.
i need to know if i am in time because i know that the glowing header is due to a timing issue. if the headers glow now in stock form, i don't want to install the vortech until i get the timing situation completely remedied.
sorry i don't mean to hijack this thread...
![]()
the reason i want to know if my timing is accurate is because of the glowing header issue i had/am having after i returned the car to stock after i took the JRSC off.
i need to know if i am in time because i know that the glowing header is due to a timing issue. if the headers glow now in stock form, i don't want to install the vortech until i get the timing situation completely remedied.
sorry i don't mean to hijack this thread...
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
