[teamDFL]

The front cover is what covers up the timing chain and seals it all up. The motor mount also attaches there. The 2.5 also will not allow the use of the focus power steering because the belt will hit the cover.

If you want to use a 2.5, you need to use a focus head and all focus accessories with a 2.3 front cover. You also will have to block off an oil passage way in the block, when you go to the focus head.

The actual 2.5 block is virtually identical to the 2.3 externally, so transmissions and other parts bolt right up.

Why do you need to use the Focus head? Is it solely because of the VCT? The 2.5 head is one of the main reasons I am researching a 2.5.

 

[teamDFL]

I honestly would probably just delete the VCT if I could. See - http://forums.focaljet.com/duratec-tuning/670630-2-0-modding-2-5-build.html

If you have anything to add, I'd appreciate it.

 

[teamDFL]

Thanks, Chris. Honestly, the thing I would really like to see is flow bench numbers on the 2.5 head vs the 2.3 head. That way we'd all know how much trouble to put into using the 2.5 head.

 

[teamDFL]

Like ford going 2.0 head on the 2.3 in the ranger. Build TQ.. So a 2.3 head & 2.5 block would build great TQ then the 2.5 head & 2.5 block. Seen a 2.5 Fusion with FSwrks satge 2 kit make 290hp / 306tq at 8psi boost

I have a 2.5 in my Fusion 6MT. The last thing it needs is to be biased more towards torque. Perhaps that isn't the fault of the head, but the engine isn't sporty in character. Nice mid-range punch, but it feels a lot like a stock Zetec - out of breath when you really want it to go the most.

 

[teamDFL]

Thanks for the great info. Is the oil port that needs plugging feeding the VCT?

 

[teamDFL]

Nice. Any chance you can change the x-axis value to RPM instead of wheel speed? Thanks.

 

[teamDFL]

Do you recall approximately the max and min RPM?

 

[teamDFL]

The rev limiter was at 9k

Well HELLO!!! That's pretty stout. Thanks.

 

[teamDFL]

We are going to build a bigger motor soon though.

I liked this and I have to say that I like this. A lot. For those of us looking for cheap, reliable, easy to access horsepower, displacement is, has been and always will be the answer. I would really like to see a solid build and product offering for a 2.5 Focus.

 

[teamDFL]

sounds like you need a 2.5 for your track car:thumbup:

I am enjoying my little blower right now, but at heart I know I will be better off if I can get naturally aspirated what I want powerwise. Problem is, I have an 01 so the Duratec swap isn't so easy.

 

[teamDFL]

I have a wrecked 05 for sale if you felt real motivated to take out the harness

You are killing me!

 

[teamDFL]

So, playing devil's advocate:

Going N/A you're going to have to rev the hell outof it anyway. Why not go with a 2.5 block and a forged 2.0 crank (fairly cheap from a miata engine)?

I believe you would need custom rods, but this is one of the lightest cranks available, it would decrease piston velocity, the larger bore would optimize the dispersal of the intake charge, shorter stroke would improve vibration of rotating assembly and promote longer life at high rpms, and you would still end up somewhere between a 2.1 and 2.2 (I didn't do the math, correct me if I am wrong).

If the engine is larger, you aren't going to have to rev the hell out of it. Even though the specific output of the smaller engine can be better, it won't be that much better. All else being equal, if I were shooting for 220 fwhp, I'd rather have it from a 2.5 than a 2.0. The piston speed is probably going to be the same maybe a slight advantage to a 2.0 particularly if you optimize the bore/stroke like you are talking about, but the bearing speeds will be slower, the valve spring loads lower, so the oil and coolant heating will be much less, which to me is the key. Nearly everything sees less stress because the engine is turning less RPM and making less heat.

This is, in part, why 8 liter Vipers and 7 liter Corvettes did so well in endurance racing. The air inlet restrictor meant everyone would make the same HP, so why not get a big honking engine that can make that same horsepower with lower stress? Since I am looking for a track day car engine (24 minute sessions not 24 hours but way lower budget) I am apt to apply the same thinking. Go big for lower stress at the same power level.

Now, I could be wrong, but that is where I stand right now. I certainly enjoy hearing other opinions and thought processes.

 

[teamDFL]

I am not trying to be difficult, I just want to understand the thought process involved in the part selection for this engine.

Though, 9000 rpms is (in my world) reving the hell out of an engine. I believe that is what this one spun to on the dyno sheet.

You aren't being difficult. I think a discussion of thought process is good.

As for 9000 RPM, yes it is spinning the hell out of an engine. If you want 300 hp in a Focus, IMO, you are looking at forced induction. However, what I am hoping is the Top Speed's research into the Duratec will yield us mere mortals an easy, cheap and reliable 220ish fwhp setup that you can do whatever you want with.

 

[teamDFL]

Sorry, I meant to say you aren't being difficult.

I prefer NA over FI because of simpler is better mantra.