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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
***This post has been edited for updated info***

I am planning a build (who isn't) on my car. I want it to be around 210-250 WHP (safe boost, IE- 8-12psi.....i will be getting a VERY good tune from a nice local shop). This car is strictly a street car (daily driven). You will probably never see me at a track or a drag strip. I occassionally will go crazy on the twists in the mountains on weekends though.

I was initially planning a custom build. Any suggestions FOR or AGAINST a kit/ custom build is appreciated. If you recommend a custom build please comment on my choice of turbo, injectors, etc.

I (think) want a good, mid-range turbo (spool-speed/horsepower/price)

My car is a 2000 ZX3 Zetec 16v DOHC with a MTX-75 5-speed manual
(Built March 2000)

Initial planning:

Turbo- Ballbearing "mid-range" turbo (internally gated?)
Turbo manifold- Custom fabbed Log manifold (or other suggestions?)
Downpipe- kit or fab
Charge pipes- kit or fab
Intercooler- something similar to the Xios stg2 FMIC
Upgraded injectors- Bosch 42lb
Tune- Local tuning by "Revolutions Performance" (they use a Diablo tune module thingy...lol)
Diverter/BOV- Internally gated??
Oil lines- kit or whatever i can find that fits
Air intake- kit or whatever i can find
Colder Spark Plugs- Motorcraft SP463 (gapped)
180(degree) Thermostat- CFM sells one

Others:
Clutch- ClutchMasters stage 3 w/lightened flywheel
ATB/LSD- Torsen

As a daily driver i want to stay away from aggressive cams.
Should i upgrade to lower compression pistons? (for safety and reliability)
Any other things i might've missed? (some kind of A/F monitor?)
I would love the suggestions/ help.
Colorado does NOT have any emissions testing, I can be as "race-only" as i want. I plan on doing an EGR system removal here in a few paychecks. (dunno if that is a factor somehow)

THANKS!
 

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sounds like youve got a solid plan...

I'd strongly suggest a wideband af monitor for any boosted setup...

As far as your parts list... seems fairly complete for your power goals... keep in mind however that 250whp is coming in pretty close to the limit of the stock bottom end... so if you plan on pushing it past this point later... might as well build now and save yourself the headache.

if you want to stay in the 210-250range... i'd suggest finding a used dsm turbo or simular... they can be had for fairly cheap... easy to rebuild... and spool rather quickly (something like a 16g would work well IMO)

build yourself a log manifold... farily straight forward.. 2 sch. 10 "90"s and 2 sch. 10 "T"s... you can use your stock exhaust manifold flange if your good at cutting it off and dont destroy it... and if using a dsm or simular turbo.. no worries about an external wastegate... plus the size of the turbo wont interfere with the pcv tank on the front of the block or the fans if you position the turbo correctly when you mock up the manifold... (ive got pictures of how i built mine in my write up)

otherwise you can look into a complete kit minus tune from xios or topspeed

anyways... do some research and talk to different people for ideas and directions... but it sounds like you have a solid plan.

good luck
-AcId-
 

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you can do better on the DV.

also "T3" is not very descriptive - you ought to do some reading on this. Four key words are wheel diameter, trim, and a/r.
 

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colder plugs, go with motorcraft SP463, i have seen some problems pop up on the forums with autolites.

agreed on the log manifold. At those power levels, go internal wastegate if you can. Not worth the money for external, most internals are good to flow for 250whp no problemo.

Disagree on the DSM turbo... a 16g will START to spool at 3500-4000, but a 14b is going to be a joke you wont get any balls out of it. You can get a decent turbo these days (Comp, turbonetics, etc) brand new with a warranty for ~$700. DSM turbo will cost you about $400 rebuilt, or $500-600 new. And youre still stuck with 20 year old technology.

What software does this "amazing tuning company" use? Sure hope its not a piggyback. And I really hope they have done a focus before.


This is just me on the soapbox, sorry if i seem short i just got somewhat opinionated about this stuff as I have made my own decisions about the best parts for a mild turbo build (planning one meself ;) ).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
revolutionsperformance.com

That's my tuner. I know the guys personally and they do GREAT work, great tuning.

Dunno if they've done a Focus specifically, but since I am in Colorado, there is none of our sponsor tuners (Massive, FocusSport, etc) closer than like 1000 miles away (that i know of).

As far as the T3, to my knowledge its the barebones Garrett T3, non-modified...but I don't know many differences between turbo trims or anything which is why I was asking what you guys suggested.

So my changes are
*** Add- A/F monitor (wideband)
*** Change autolites to motorcraft sp463 (thanks for recommendation on that)
** Internally gated turbo.


***PLEASE SUGGEST***
An internally gated turbo that would be adequate for my horsepower needs.
Remember, faster-spooling is better, cheaper is better, more reliable is best.
If i decide to go more horsepower later on, it'll be so far in the future I will be buying a new technology turbo then anyways; so no worries on "being able to crank up the boost in the future" (i'll just buy another turbo IF "IF" IF IF that day ever comes).
PLUS, i'll be modding more than just a turbo if i go over this horsepower benchmark (engine internals).
 

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yeah bring your HP level down to 220 or 230 for safety, my guess is you will be astuounded how little traction you will have at that much power... Hell I dont have a first gear in the 150's whp...

Best way to pick a turbo is jump into it yourself... start learning about trims and diameters and a/r and what they all mean. Then look around, you will notice a lot of the manufacturers make the same size turbos. The pudding is in what they put in the center sections (bearings, materials, etc.)

If you like garrett, the size of the gt28r (gt2560r NOT 2860rs) is a great turbo for a mild build on a zetec. There are other options though, and some say garrett technology is out of date. Plus you can only get the .63 a/r exh housing if you want internal gate.

Faster spooling is not always better. If your turbo spools at 2200 rpm, you will quite simply just roast tires all day long. A better balance is going to make the car faster overall, and more fun to drive. a turbo that spools before 3000 is likely going to fall on its face after 4000-4500 and be very lame in the top end. I used to think I wanted 2500 spool. But looking at it again recently, I can see how the tuning would be a pain and you just end up with wheelspin and desire for more top end when you ring it out...

You NEED to figure out what tuning solution they plan on using. I can GUARANTEE you if they plan on doing a piggyback or standalone, you will get MUCH better results by remote tuning with focussport or focus-power using SCT products and the STOCK computer.
 

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With turbo selection, an important choice to make is journal or ball bearing. Ball bearing are $$$$ (usually add $400-600 to the cost of a turbo!) but much much more reliable. They also spool a bit quicker (not earlier in rpm, quicker in time). But there is the cost downside.

For my build I have been back and forth for the last 2 years over journal or ball bearing. But I think just based on cost, I really dont think the ball bearings are worth it for a 220whp build with IWG and log manifold and such. Others will say the turbo is "the heart of the turbo kit" and you should spend all the money you can on it. Different strokes for different folks i guess.
 

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Ball bearing doesn't spool quicker in rpm???? I've always heard this to be true. That's one of the main reasons people get them.
 

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I think it is just a misnomer, most people dont know the difference between spool rpm (when spool starts) and spool time (how many rpms it takes)

They do usually reduce the rpm at which you get full spool.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay so, I'm thinking ball bearing turbo.
Is everyone still recommending internally gated?
And what is the difference between internal gate and external (is that a BoV/BV?) what do they affect?

As far as tuning, they use Diablo's tuner on Ford's. (same thing as XCal, different company).


So, that "fast-spool" could be bad for grip....okay. Anyone know any mid-range turbo's (price/ horsepower)?

The GT28R? Any others that are popular and easy to get parts for? (i dont have a brand preference on turbo's)
 

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BOV blow off valve takes the place of the DV and just blows the charge air to atmosphere.

external gate can flow a LOT more air so it is good for more intense builds.

Diablo is good but iirc, they dont have software for the non-SVT focus...?
 

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Oh, you may have to do the diablo chip. The flasher is much much easier but I dont think they have the flasher for non-svt.

oh also, BOV/DV is on the intake side. They expel extra charge air when you close the throttle. The wastegate is on the exh side. it allows extra exh air past the turbine so you dont make more boost than you want.
 
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