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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Battery seems good, no clicking dead battery sounds, but I turn the key and nothing happens. Starter?
 

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It's an 04 SVT, is the safety switch under the clutch pedal somewhere?
I'll clean the grounds.

One other thing I noticed that I hadn't seen before, the red light on the dash was blinking fast when I tried to start it, I think that's an anti-theft light. Maybe not related, I just don't recall it doing that before.

It was weird because I drove to lunch just fine, but then to start it to go home, nothing. The check engine light has been on for the IMRC, I don't know if that would be related, the new one is on it's way here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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It sounds like a PATS (anti theft) issue to me. I have 2 keys for my car and if I use the one that is not cut but not programmed the exact same thing happens. Could also be the safety switch aswell but thats easy to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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It sounds like a PATS (anti theft) issue to me. I have 2 keys for my car and if I use the one that is not cut but not programmed the exact same thing happens. Could also be the safety switch aswell but thats easy to check.
That fast blinking red light above the Hazzard button could indicate that?
 

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Yes. and if the battery isn't almost 100% the PATS system won't respond. Even if the battery is OKAY - charge it fully 15A for a couple hours. Make sure it doesn't get past warm to the touch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes. and if the battery isn't almost 100% the PATS system won't respond. Even if the battery is OKAY - charge it fully 15A for a couple hours. Make sure it doesn't get past warm to the touch.
My buddy's going to bring a meter to check the battery, the battery is about two years old and the alternator is new, but it could still be down a bit. So with the PATS it could be a problem with the chip in my key or the receiver on the ignition, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So the battery is at 12.3 volts, it should be at 12.6, right? I'm going to take it to have it charged and tested down at o reily's,

But if it's a low battery causing the issue, shouldn't I be able to jump it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If it were an issue with the starter, I'd probably hear something, a click or thud, something, right? So with that blinking anti-theft light, assuming it is an issue with the PATS, is that something only the dealer can fix? Or any shop, or even a Lock Smith shop where they program keys and fobs, stuff like that?
 

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Not true, if the starter is shot it might not do a single thing. Try having someone hold the key to crank, and tap on the starter with the end of a prybar and see if it starts, if it does after that you know it's the starter.
 

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The saftey switch is green and it's under the clutch pedal. With the clutch pushed it it touches it.

To reset it simply pull the plunger out as far as possible. Then try and start the car.
 

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Have you looked at the clutch safety switch as suggested above? It is possible to knock it off its mount with the toe of a boot, and/or out of adjustement.




Alright garrett, you beat me to recalling your own post, LOL... I was writing while you were posting. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
The saftey switch is green and it's under the clutch pedal. With the clutch pushed it it touches it.

To reset it simply pull the plunger out as far as possible. Then try and start the car.
Thanks, I didn't try to pull the plunger out all the way, but I did push it in several times and it always extended back out again and seemed normal. I'll try pulling it out all the way, of course it will then get depressed again with the clutch pedal when I try to start it. I'm home right now and my car is at work, otherwise I'd run out and try this right now.

The thing that has me pretty sure it's the anti-theft is that blinking light. I got in touch with a good locksmith shop in American Fork, Alpine Lock & Safe, the guy Jay was very helpful, when I told him what was going on, the first thing he asked was if that light was blinking, with that light blinking he says it should be the anti-theft system that isn't working right. He even told me how I can replace the receiver ring part on the ignition to see if that fixes it, but I think I'm going to get it towed to them because I think I need a new key. If I tap on my key, I hear a little rattle, that makes me think the chip in the key is broken. They'll do the key for like $75 as opposed to $200 at the dealer. Now in the quite of home, I can hear the rattle quite well. The locksmith said it's not supposed to rattle.

thanks for everyone's comments and suggestions, Focaljet is awesome. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update and resolution:

It was indeed a case of a broken key. Through research, y'all's guidance, and the suggestion of a friend, I was able to avoid unneeded work and frustration, like swapping a starter, or getting it towed to the dealer. $75 for a new key at the locksmith place, rather than $200 at the dealer. Only bad part was getting it towed, they brought a flat bed, my mach 1 lip got a bit scrunched but it bounced back, no problem, looks just as wavy as before. Thanks everybody.

So remember, fast blinking anti-theft light indicates an issue with that system, and a key that rattles means it's broken. If the key is fine, it could be the receiver part on the steering column, remove the plastic cover on the column and you can swap out the ring thing to see if that fixes it, if it's not that, it could be the control module for that system, and if so , I believe that is an expensive part.
 

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Not true, if the starter is shot it might not do a single thing. Try having someone hold the key to crank, and tap on the starter with the end of a prybar and see if it starts, if it does after that you know it's the starter.

No, you should check to make sure there is power on the main wire and power on the signal wire with crank before replacing
 
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