update: got the lower control arm out, no cutting, here's how

6357 Views 10 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Revo, Aug 4, 2006

mikeyboy

Discussion Starter · Oct 29, 2005

update: got the lower control arm out, no cutting, here\'s how

Edit: jump to my latest post for info on how i got the LCA out, and pics.

so, i'm working on swapping in my SVT suspension in the rear. using the "pull the control arm/knuckle bolt and let jack down" method to remove springs.

passenger side went swimmingly. all over but the torquing when weird is back on wheels.

driver's side -- the bolt turns out about 5-6 turns, then the metal sleeve inside the bushing starts turning with the bolt. eventually the sleeve + bolt unthreading combination starts to spread the knuckle itself apart (and the bolt refuses to come out more).

what can i do? why is the sleeve catching on the bolt?

now that the sleeve is "loose" in the bushing, do i need to replace the bushing?

my plan was -- get the spring out (and SVT spring in) by any means necessary. torque the bolt back in. order new bushings. when they arrive, dismantle the whole thing again (somehow) and press new bushings in or get them pushed in.

any ideas? input appreciated, thanks.

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Z63R

· #2 · Oct 29, 2005

Re: problem with rear, rear lower control arm -> knuckle bushing

I wish I had more of an answer for you...

The LCA is inclined slightly, so the bolt doesn't really have a good angle through the rear upright (knuckle) which is why it's binding on you.

It's been a year since I did my SVT install, but I think I torsioned the LCA with a prybar to thread that longer bolt in there. I'm very cautious of cross-threading hardware.

There is also something called "design height" that the suspension needs to sit at before you tighten that bolt (once you get everything under control). I didn't know what that was at the time, so I torqued the LCA outer bolt while there was 200 lbs added to the floor of the hatch area after the wheels were on the ground.

Again, sorry I can't offer more concrete advice, but I caution you to eyeball that corner every mile if you drive on it before it's corrected to your satisfaction.

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zts2001

· #3 · Oct 29, 2005

Re: problem with rear, rear lower control arm -> knuckle bushing

Had same problem when installing mine - but on both sides. Bolts were seized in the bushings. Ended up cutting these bolts and the bolts w/ecentrics to remove both both lower control arms. Then replaced both lower control arms and related bolts with new.

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mikeyboy

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 29, 2005

Re: problem with rear, rear lower control arm -> knuckle bushing

Had same problem when installing mine - but on both sides. Bolts were seized in the bushings. Ended up cutting these bolts and the bolts w/ecentrics to remove both both lower control arms. Then replaced both lower control arms and related bolts with new.

ugh. yeah, this is what i'm trying to avoid.

so after working on it today, i got the spring out using compressors. i still haven't gotten the bolt out -- it'll turn out quite far before it catches the bushing sleeve, but now the bushing is pretty messed up. the bolt, however, is in all the way and is torquable. if i can get the SVT spring in, the car is driveable (i'm not taking road trips with it, but i can get it to a shop)

at home with limited tools & access, my fear is that any way i try to get that bolt out will result in needing to replace the LCA and/or the knuckle. whereas a shop has better tools, and a lift, and is more likely to be able to disassemble the parts without destroying the LCA or knuckle.

so, plan a.) put the spring in tonight and it's driveable. plan b.) try to get the bolt out, and potentially leave it undriveable in my garage and/or need to replace bigger, more expensive things.

i think i'm going with A, then i'll make calls on monday to see how much it would cost to have someone replace it. if it's way too expensive, then i'll pick up some more/better tools and try plan B.

glad i got the SVT parts cheap. let this be a lesson to all - doing rear springs, get the damn daffy-duck style spring compressor. don't touch the LCA/knuckle bolt. it only leads to heartache. (yes, MichaelXi, this is what you've said from the beginning. but i've done it 3 times the other way on other people's cars... i guess they never went thru a salty winter

and i wish that steeda's directions & ford racing parts' directions & ax0n's focushacks made some sort of mention of the risks of doing it this way.)

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mikeyboy

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 3, 2005

Re: problem with rear, rear lower control arm -> knuckle bushing

got the Lower Control Arm (LCA) off. without grinding or cutting. here's how i did it.

my predicament was that the bolt between the LCA and the knuckle would turn... to a point, then get wedged in the bushing sleeve and turn the sleeve, eventually ripping the sleeve free of the bushing.

this actually facilitates taking the bolt out. the sleeve will slide on the bushing, so push the control arm back, exposing enough of the sleeve to get a pair of vice-grips on it. then turn the bolt out, essentially threading it through the sleeve.

when my first pair of vice-grips failed, i bought a bigger pair and squeezed them on with 2 hands.

if that failed to keep the sleeve from moving, i would have used my 4-1/2" angle grinder to grind 2 flat spots on the sleeve to improve the grip (and then maybe fitted a large adjustable wrench onto it)

now all i have left to do is order up a new LCA and bolt, and reinstall. the bolt on the inside of the LCA came out without a problem. of course, i hit it with PB Blaster 4 days ago... and it wasn't corroded at all to begin with. quite a difference from the outer bolt.

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McSVT

· #6 · Nov 3, 2005

Re: problem with rear, rear lower control arm -> knuckle bushing

That is good to hear. Now don't forget the Antiseize.

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MUTTLEE

· #7 · Apr 20, 2006

Re: problem with rear, rear lower control arm -> knuckle bushing

I just ran into this problem yesterday

. Went to take the rear LCA bolt out...*SNAP*....son ovha bitch!!!:rant:. The bolt broke midway into the bushing. The rest is seized on the welded nut side. Ground the nut off hoping to punch the rest of the bolt out. Ran outta daylight. Can't wait to do the other side

.

Went to Ford today and ordered both rear lower control arms, and both sets of bolts for the arms. haven't touched the other side yet but bought everything just in case.

YS4Z-5500-CC Rear Lower Control Arm $49.94 x2
6S4Z-5K978-AA Bolt (LCA to knuckle) $6.97 x2
-w500744-s439 Bolt (LCA to subframe) $.97 x2
-w703016-s306 Nut (LCA to subframe) $4.38 x2

Because I ground the nut of the knuckle, I will just got to a local nut and bolt specialty shop and find a suitable replacement nut.

Is there anything that I could put on bolts to make it not happen again? Maybe some moly grease during the install?

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redzx300

· #8 · Jul 29, 2006

same problem for me. But I was using a pipe on the end of my ratchet and my bolt is now bent inside the bushing and the nut on the other side's weld is coming loose. And the control arm is actually bent. I think that was the cause of the problem in the first place. Unless I bent it taking trying to take the bolt out.
I will just order the new arm.
I did the passenger side first and had no problems at all.

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Petik

· #9 · Aug 3, 2006

I'm having the same problem right now. Decided to do the SVT suspension and in the process i'm also replacing all of rear bushings with prothane (all 12 of them). I got 10 bolts out, 3 had to be cut - particularly after i cracked a craftsman socket on one of the LAC lower bolts.

The two bolts that i'm left with are the upper bolts on the LCAs (the ones with ecentrics). I got the nuts off, but the bolts are held in by the ecentrics so I can't thread them out (even though they turn). I tried hammering them out and they won't budge, not even with an air hammer. So my question is, are these standard bolts? Can I just cut them and get new bolts or are these something i'm gonna have to go to ford for?

If not cutting, what's a good way to get those suckers out?

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arnold8511

· #10 · Aug 3, 2006

kinda had the same problem ever time i turned the bolt it just turned back the other way but after an hour of doin it it finally broke loose

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Revo

· #11 · Aug 4, 2006

on my last car my drivers side did the same thing, the bushing was ****ed on mine. i dont know if u can buy the bushing, or maybe poly inserts? but i replaced the whole arm.

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