Spring is upon us and as I get ready for my first track event of the year, I just wanted to share some of the things I do to get ready.
First thing I always think about is my brakes. After all, it really sucks when they don't work. Here are some guidlines that might help:
1) Fresh fluid is a must. Most clubs require it, but it should be at the top of your list regardless. When I say fresh fluid, I mean a full flush, not just a bleed. When selecting brake fluid, look only at the dry boiling point. Since it will be fresh, wet means nothing. Consider 500F to be the absolute minimum you consider. This will give you margin of safety even if you never see those temps. I use the Ford Motorsport (formerly known as 'Blue Can' in track circles) as it has a 550F dry boiling point, is readily available and not very expensive. If you are running high temp pads and a two day event, a quick flush at the end of day one should be on your itinerary.
2) Brake pads are the number two concern. Selection of pads should be based on the same criteria as fluid: heat capability. However, unlike the fluid, higher temp is not always better. Be realistic about what your requirements are. If you do not need pads that are capabable of withstanding 1200F, then do not get them. Invariably, they will be poor at low temperature and harsh on rotors. For lapping days, my recommendation for most beginning and intermediate drivers is to select a pad that is designed for lighter cars, irrespective of the weight of your automobile. Usually, these will be easier to modulate and less agressive towards your rotors. Some advanced drivers and some tracks (CMP springs to mind) will require full race pads. Be prepared, as these pads can often take some getting used to. Once you have determined the basic type of pad you can use, experiment with different brands until you find one that has the modulation and bite characteristics you prefer.
3) When buying rotors, only buying high quality, name brand, standard style rotors. Slotting and drilling will not help significantly on track with modern brake pad technology. The risks of cracking and the accelerated pad wear make these items a bad idea from a budget standpoint too. Since your rotors are going to see some very high temperatures, when fitting them to the car, smear a thin coat of high temp anti-sieze on the hub face and snout. When it comes to change rotors, they will come off much easier. A thin smear on the front hat face will help with the inevitable tire rotation as well. For anti-sieze, I always use 1600F Mil-Spec as it has never failed me. While quite possibly massive overkill, I like the cushion.
4) At the track, you should thoroughly inspect your brakes after every day. Pull the wheels, and check for pad thickness first. If you came with new pads, and they are over half gone, it is safe to say that you won't make it through the second day! Be aware that in my experience, pad wear is not linear. The second half wears away much faster than the first. Also, the lack of mass will make them fade faster. Be aware of this, especially considering that you are (hopefully!) getting faster as the event wears on. After looking over the pads, check the rotors for scoring. They will not be mirror smooth, but there should be no major grooves in them. Uneven wear (one face or one side) could be indicative of a problem. Also, check the top lip for wear. A big step indicates a lot of wear and could be showing you that you need to modify your pad choice. Remember, pads outside their temp range are often very harsh on rotors. Next check the calipers for residue. If there is oil or sludge on them, check the connections at the brake line and the areas near the guide pins. The factory lube is pretty low temperature and will make a bit of a mess. Again, the Mil-Spec anti-sieze is put to use. Finally, look over your brake lines. Make sure that the connections are dry and that they are in all the factory clips. If you are running stock rubber lines, check for discoloration. A lightening of the color of the rubber can often indicate swelling. A failure could be in your near future. Replace it or park it.
5) My brake tool box includes:
Brake part cleaner
Anti-sieze
8mm wrench for rear bleeder
10mm wrench for front bleeders
Torx key for the guide pins
Flare head wrenches for the hose unions
1/4" ID 3/8" OD clear plastic tubing
6 bottles of Ford Motorsport fluid
Blanket to lay on
Turkey baster to remove old fluid from resevoir
A friend to pump the pedal
Yes, I still use the old tried and push the pedal method to flush and bleed my fluid. I have used both vacuum and pressure bleeders, and have found that nothing gives the consistency of the old fashioned way.
6) Don't forget the little things. Look at the brake pedal linkage and check it for wear. Look at the pedal pad too while your head is under the steering wheel checking the lever arm. Make sure that your fluid resevoir cap screws on easily and securely. Remember that hot brake fluid expands, so filling to the maximum level is not a good idea. You will quickly have a messy overflow. Be nice to your brakes and let them have a true cool down lap. Sitting in the pits with hot brakes is bad news, so use that last lap to get them a good supply of fresh air.
Preparation is the key. Oh, and spares never hurt anyone either...
[ 03-09-2003, 01:25 AM: Message edited by: MichaelXi ]
First thing I always think about is my brakes. After all, it really sucks when they don't work. Here are some guidlines that might help:
1) Fresh fluid is a must. Most clubs require it, but it should be at the top of your list regardless. When I say fresh fluid, I mean a full flush, not just a bleed. When selecting brake fluid, look only at the dry boiling point. Since it will be fresh, wet means nothing. Consider 500F to be the absolute minimum you consider. This will give you margin of safety even if you never see those temps. I use the Ford Motorsport (formerly known as 'Blue Can' in track circles) as it has a 550F dry boiling point, is readily available and not very expensive. If you are running high temp pads and a two day event, a quick flush at the end of day one should be on your itinerary.
2) Brake pads are the number two concern. Selection of pads should be based on the same criteria as fluid: heat capability. However, unlike the fluid, higher temp is not always better. Be realistic about what your requirements are. If you do not need pads that are capabable of withstanding 1200F, then do not get them. Invariably, they will be poor at low temperature and harsh on rotors. For lapping days, my recommendation for most beginning and intermediate drivers is to select a pad that is designed for lighter cars, irrespective of the weight of your automobile. Usually, these will be easier to modulate and less agressive towards your rotors. Some advanced drivers and some tracks (CMP springs to mind) will require full race pads. Be prepared, as these pads can often take some getting used to. Once you have determined the basic type of pad you can use, experiment with different brands until you find one that has the modulation and bite characteristics you prefer.
3) When buying rotors, only buying high quality, name brand, standard style rotors. Slotting and drilling will not help significantly on track with modern brake pad technology. The risks of cracking and the accelerated pad wear make these items a bad idea from a budget standpoint too. Since your rotors are going to see some very high temperatures, when fitting them to the car, smear a thin coat of high temp anti-sieze on the hub face and snout. When it comes to change rotors, they will come off much easier. A thin smear on the front hat face will help with the inevitable tire rotation as well. For anti-sieze, I always use 1600F Mil-Spec as it has never failed me. While quite possibly massive overkill, I like the cushion.
4) At the track, you should thoroughly inspect your brakes after every day. Pull the wheels, and check for pad thickness first. If you came with new pads, and they are over half gone, it is safe to say that you won't make it through the second day! Be aware that in my experience, pad wear is not linear. The second half wears away much faster than the first. Also, the lack of mass will make them fade faster. Be aware of this, especially considering that you are (hopefully!) getting faster as the event wears on. After looking over the pads, check the rotors for scoring. They will not be mirror smooth, but there should be no major grooves in them. Uneven wear (one face or one side) could be indicative of a problem. Also, check the top lip for wear. A big step indicates a lot of wear and could be showing you that you need to modify your pad choice. Remember, pads outside their temp range are often very harsh on rotors. Next check the calipers for residue. If there is oil or sludge on them, check the connections at the brake line and the areas near the guide pins. The factory lube is pretty low temperature and will make a bit of a mess. Again, the Mil-Spec anti-sieze is put to use. Finally, look over your brake lines. Make sure that the connections are dry and that they are in all the factory clips. If you are running stock rubber lines, check for discoloration. A lightening of the color of the rubber can often indicate swelling. A failure could be in your near future. Replace it or park it.
5) My brake tool box includes:
Brake part cleaner
Anti-sieze
8mm wrench for rear bleeder
10mm wrench for front bleeders
Torx key for the guide pins
Flare head wrenches for the hose unions
1/4" ID 3/8" OD clear plastic tubing
6 bottles of Ford Motorsport fluid
Blanket to lay on
Turkey baster to remove old fluid from resevoir
A friend to pump the pedal
Yes, I still use the old tried and push the pedal method to flush and bleed my fluid. I have used both vacuum and pressure bleeders, and have found that nothing gives the consistency of the old fashioned way.
6) Don't forget the little things. Look at the brake pedal linkage and check it for wear. Look at the pedal pad too while your head is under the steering wheel checking the lever arm. Make sure that your fluid resevoir cap screws on easily and securely. Remember that hot brake fluid expands, so filling to the maximum level is not a good idea. You will quickly have a messy overflow. Be nice to your brakes and let them have a true cool down lap. Sitting in the pits with hot brakes is bad news, so use that last lap to get them a good supply of fresh air.
Preparation is the key. Oh, and spares never hurt anyone either...
[ 03-09-2003, 01:25 AM: Message edited by: MichaelXi ]
