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I just replaced the passenger side mount and it seemed to help somewhat, but definitely didn't take care of all the vibrations (especially with the AC on). I'm going to probably just go ahead and do the other two mounts, but i have no idea where the third one is. Any pics?
 

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The third mount is under the car and ties the transmission to the engine cradle. I found mine was very spongy and replaced it with one from CFM. Seem to help out, but I sold the car.
 

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I replaced the passenger side mount myself, then had a mechanic replace the other two. Turns out the transmission one was pretty bad, but even after all this has been been done, there is still a decent amount of vibrations (even though it is better)...especially when i pop the hood i see how much the engine is vibrating. The only other thing i suspect is that the spark plugs need to be changed. They have at least 25k on them and i have no idea when the previous owner changed them.
 

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I just went into the dealer today with this problem. I just changed all three of my mounts but still have the loud vibrations. He said that many times mechanics won't "neutralize" the engine before fastening the mounts down tightly. This causes the engine to be mounted in a sort of weird positioning. I guess you're supposed to loose the tranny mount and passenger and then kind of push the car with your knee untill it sits where it needs to...then fasten it down. He also said that having the OEM parts really make a huge difference when changing mounts. IDK about all this but i'm gonna try to "neutralize" it first to see if it helps.
 

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I'm having what appears to be the same problem you are. I changed out all the mounts and am still having a vibration problem at idle. It almost seemed to make it worse after I changed the mounts. I also noticed that the rubber tube coming from the PCV valve going into the manifold was collapsed so I changed that too. Still, I can't get rid of the vibrations. Have you made any headway on your problem?
 

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I want to tell all of you on this thread how much it has helped me with possibly diagnosing my problem with my 2003 Focus. Has about 45,000 miles. Don't know anything about the engine specs at this moment as I am not savvy on such things. It's an SE, if that helps. Was googling my problem and found this thread and registered to thank you and ask for help.
It just started doing the deep bassy vibration thing when the temps here in Florida dropped severely this past couple of weeks. It's worse in reverse, better in drive. The colder the temp, the worse it is. Once the car warms up completely, you can't really feel it at all.
I checked under the hood and the engine shifts from front to back noticeably when in gear and then back in park.
My question is, if it's the mount(s) can I drive it a long distance before fixing it? I have to take my son back to Savannah on Monday, 12 hours round trip. I just moved to a new town and have no connections here. Can't find any place to get it fixed before New Year's. Everyone is closing real early tomorrow for New Year's Eve. My old mechanic is two hours away, he's great. He says he can do it tomorrow if I get there real early when he opens, if it is the motor mount problem. But maybe not if it's something else. I have to decide if I want to make that long of a drive not knowing if he can actually do anything about it, in case it's not the motor mount and is something else. But based on the info in this thread, it sure sounds like it.
It is also making that squeaky sound you hear when a belt is going. It's on the left side of the engine (when facing the engine). Could that have anything to do with the mount? Or maybe just another problem?

Thanks for listening and helping out.

Edit: Just realized there has been no reply on this thread since early Nov., so I can't expect a reply right away. Bummer.
 

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You would have to be really trying to get mounts twisted out of shape on these, nine times out of ten the problem is non-stock Ford mounts. They when new will never approach OEM smoothness, most especially the passenger side.

If you bolt down solid with bolts pretty much right in center of holes in plate then you are good enough to go unless car has been in an accident. The dogbone is pretty much self aligning.
 

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Just went through this myself. Car started vibrating last winter, I finally got around to replacing the upper passenger side motor mount with an aftermarket part. That lasted about three months, so I replaced the other two as well. That didn't help, so I got a Ford upper motor mount, and the car drives like new. The one that I took off was leaking fluid. Consensus seems to be you can get the transmission (drivers side in the US) and torque strut (under the center of the car) from the aftermarket, but you definitely want a genuine Motorcraft upper mount.

It's actually a pretty easy job. My car is a 2002 ZX3 with the 2.0 Zetec, others may be different. You'll need a socket set from 10 to 19 mm, plus a 21 mm one, and a small blade screwdriver. For the upper mount, remove the one bolt holding the coolant reservoir, then insert a small blade screwdriver in the clip that's holding it to the strut tower. Move the reservoir out of the way. You'll then need to support the engine under the oil pan, most likely with a trolley jack and a wood block. Put just enough pressure on to start to move the car up - you don't want to support the whole car under the oil pan. There are two nuts on studs attached to the engine, loosen and remove them with an 18mm socket, Next up, there are three bolts holding the motor mount bracket. Loosen and remove them with a 15 mm socket. You'll probably need to tap or pry the motor mount away from the cylinder head. This will be made much easier if you raise the engine up enough to where the motor mount bracket is just off of the chassis. Once you get this out, there's one bolt holding the mount to the bracket. Use an 18 mm socket to remove this. Assembly is the reverse of removal. On the motor mount, there's a tab that fits into the bracket, make sure the tab and slot are lined up before tightening the bolt. For assembly, attach the mount to the cylinder head first. Then move the engine around so the holes in the bracket line up with the fasteners in the chassis.

For the transmission mount, remove the battery and the battery box, and unscrew the airbox cover. Move the airbox cover out of the way, then grab the airbox and pull it up out of the way, it snaps out. Support the transaxle with a jack, then remove the four mounting bolts and the one large nut that holds the transaxle to the transmission mount. I believe that this is a 21 mm nut. Assembly is just what you'd expect.

For the torque strut, you'll have to work under the car. it's towards the center of the car at the back of the transaxle. It's two bolts. The mount on the transaxle is one of those where the bolt pulls a sliding sleeve over to remove any slack, so removal will be a little difficult. if I had to do it over again, I'd try tapping it up to see if it would disengage from the sleeve. Once you get that loose, you'll need to pry the engine and transaxle forward with a pry bar. While you're looking for a place to pry, make sure you don't pry against the brake line that's running along the steering rack. Once you get the engine and transaxle far enough forward, the mount will drop out. Before replacing the mount, you need to get that sliding sleeve in the transaxle's mounting bracket pushed back or you'll have a hell of a time getting the torque strut back in. The only thing I've ever found that worked was a large C clamp. I used a little piece of square tubing on the outside of the bracket as a bracing point, you could use a wrench or other piece of metal. I can't generate enough force with Channellocks, the only thing that works for me is the C clamp. Once this is pushed back, pry the engine forward and put the torque strut in place. If you got the sliding sleeve pushed back, it will easily slip into the bracket on the transaxle. Now, reattach the two bolts. Do the one in the transaxle bracket first, it's much easier that way.

This makes all the difference in the world. Now when I drive, it's easy to forget that the Focus is a 4 cylinder.
 

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I can pretty much tell you with about 90% accuracy that if you have bought the Anchor branded passenger side mount sold at both Autozone and O'Reilly that you have screwed up, if it doesn't show immediately it will pretty soon. Calling those parts 'lifetime' is one of the biggest errors in the use of the english language I've heard. I returned so many when I worked at the auto store it was not funny.
 

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I can pretty much tell you with about 90% accuracy that if you have bought the Anchor branded passenger side mount sold at both Autozone and O'Reilly that you have screwed up, if it doesn't show immediately it will pretty soon. Calling those parts 'lifetime' is one of the biggest errors in the use of the english language I've heard. I returned so many when I worked at the auto store it was not funny.
They are indeed Anchor, but they came from Rock Auto. If (when) they fail, they're going to get replaced with Ford parts. It's gotten to the point where the aftermarket parts just don't work. I've decided that with the possible exception of shocks/struts, brakes, and filters, where I can get parts from a known brand that isn't made in China, I'm going with Ford parts only. I get the impression that the super cheap parts from China have driven most of the other aftermarket parts out of the marketplace. That aftermarket motor mount that failed was a name brand, though I can't remember now. i wasn't too impressed when I saw the "made in China" label on it, and sure enough, it let me down. The damn thing was leaking fluid when I took it off. I used to like dealing with RockAuto because they had a variety of brands, but now it seems like, with the exception of things like brake pads and belts, they now only have the cheap brands. Bummer.
 
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