the getrag..

 

Id say MTX 75. heres why:

the getrag uses a dual mass flywheel. The purpose of the dual mass is ease the shock on clamping. Unfortunately it usually just coauses chatter and failure. The dual mass flywheel is unneccesary.

The gear ratios are too close together. 6th gear is more of a novelty than a serious gear.

 

The dual mass prevents chatter, an aluminum flywheel is an easy if not cheap swap but that's where the chatter come in is with the aftermarket clutch and flywheel.

I love the Getrag in my car, the gearing is set up for road course use and works incredibly well to keep the engine in it's power band.

It seems to me that it is hard on a transaxle if a person shifts very quickly. Yes, MTX75's do have soft synchro's -- so you have to go easy on them. However, the repair costs on the MTX75 are, perhaps, reasonable -- and here's the kicker: I don't believe anyone has been able to source any internal parts for the MT285 Getrag. Only seals and half-shafts (the latter not really being part of the transaxle). A full suite of parts are, by comparison, available for the MTX75.

A Rebuilt-thru-Ford Getrag MT285 costs $6000 here in Canada, with a $1400 core charge added-on. Our Canadian dollar trades (currently) at a higher value than the Greenback ($US1.02 = $CDN1.00) -- so I expect the cost is the same in the US - i.e. very HIGH.

Lastly, folks, we have THE source of MTX75 prowess, here in North America -- in Haines Motor Sports. Renewal of the synchros on the MTX75 requires a hydraulic press and requires heating the gears. Haines can do it without a torch, without damaging the gear faces / hardening. Also, measuring end-play of bearings for the two shafts, when bearings are replaced. The necessary jig, to measure the output shaft, particularly. Also HMS upgrades the shifter mechanisms, with a superior-to-stock design. Finally, if folks are considering an ATB or Torsen differential, then set-up of the roller bearings / axial clearance is a necessity. Not to be done by gosh or golly. A special jig is required to axially load the diff, to enable measuring.

I would never consider buying a transaxle, particularly buying the vehicle used, if a full grouping of repair parts were not available, and if a clear specialist were not out there.... Such is the MT285. Guys, you need to baby those transaxles!

There is no such thing as a Ford reman Getrag, the only way to get one is a brand new unit.

That is a downfall of the Getrag, there are virtually no internal parts available for it but on the other hand they've been very reliable transmissions.

I've owned MTXs and my Getrag and overall I prefer the Getrag.

 

Id say MTX 75. heres why:

the getrag uses a dual mass flywheel. The purpose of the dual mass is ease the shock on clamping. Unfortunately it usually just coauses chatter and failure. The dual mass flywheel is unneccesary.

The gear ratios are too close together. 6th gear is more of a novelty than a serious gear.

Wow good info.
:thumbup:

 

Also, I hear that the MTX-75 can withstand much more power than the getrag.

 

I like the getreg in my SVT but I like the MTX-75 in my ZX3 just the same. The MTX can handle more power and parts are cheaper so I would stick with that if its what you have. Plus the close ratio gears in the MTX actually makes you faster off the line then the Getreg. The one good thing about the Getreg is that it is a well built peice with very few problems.

 

Being that I have driven with both an MTX-75, and now my Getrag I will say this about them. I had to get a new MTX tranny at 26k because of the imfamous third gear synchro. Oh well, such is life... so on and so on. I did LOVE the low end take off with the shorter gear ratio... I know my ZX3 would have my SVT at the line anyday.

On to the Getrag... I love the extra gear on the highway... the car settles in and cruises awesome at 3000 RPM going 70. The Getrag is far superior in acceleration in third gear from 65 to 90... it pulls good! :evilgrin: Thanks to the change in the final drive gear for 3-4-Reverse. Not that reverse means anything, I just want to cover my bases before some jack says... "YOU FORGOT REVERSE!!!" The Getrag also feels like a well built piece of machinery... and with a couple mods like a STS and lower tranny mount, the car really becomes it's own.

Both transmissions are totally different from eachother, and thus really help a driver of a ZX3/5 who upgraded to an SVT differentiate the two vehicles. Both trannys had a target market... the MTX-75 was built for city driving, and getting from point A to point B. The Getrag was a purpose built tranny that can get you from point A to point B just fine, but the gearing is such that it is wonderful for a weekend at the track... not drag strip... and that my friends is where the Getrag is going to shine.

 

The Getrag was a purpose built tranny that can get you from point A to point B just fine, but the gearing is such that it is wonderful for a weekend at the track... not drag strip... and that my friends is where the Getrag is going to shine.

QFT. alot of people dont understand that.. they think their svts are crap.. its a road course tranny not a strip tranny.

well said friend :thumbup:

 

its a road course tranny not a strip tranny.

well said friend :thumbup:

My personal views and experience differ.

An SVT uses 2-3-4 at all the tracks I've been to, and an MTX-75 uses 2-3-4 on the same tracks.

I really don't like the Getrag for a multitude of reasons. It takes longer to engage shifts, as it does not like to be rushed. The fourth gear engagement has a fragile, shallow feeling.

I'll take a 4.06 geared MTX-75 over a Getrag anyday, autocross, street, or roadcourse. I've never been to a strip, so I can't comment on that.

The SVT has a bunch of sweet parts that I like... The Getrag isn't one of them.

 

The SVT has a bunch of sweet parts that I like... The Getrag isn't one of them.

bumping from the dead to say that this is a great quote :thumbup:

... and to contribute MPH charts for a few tire sizes

https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...?hl=en_US&hl=en_US&key=0Al9iuU-9Uv1XdFc3M0gtcEN4bElMY2ViSWpoS21vR3c&output=html

 

I am trying to purchase an svt and also heard from quite a few people besides here that the mtx75 is better my question is how much of a headache and how much cash will it take to swap out the getrag for the mtx. THanks

 

Before even considering a swap... drive the car.

 

i know and i will but i was just wondering for if i do not like it i was just wondering how much it would cost to do a swap and how hard it would be it's just a question i don't plan on swapping it before i drive it by any means but in the future if i plan on doing it i was just asking in advance. thanks for the info.

 

Id say MTX 75. heres why:

the getrag uses a dual mass flywheel. The purpose of the dual mass is ease the shock on clamping. Unfortunately it usually just coauses chatter and failure. The dual mass flywheel is unneccesary.

The gear ratios are too close together. 6th gear is more of a novelty than a serious gear.

The dual mass flywheel can easily be swapped with a conventional setup. In fact, a lot of people do that. The flywheel is not a part of the tranny, it is connected to it.

6th gear is fine, I wish it was a little taller so that I could get some better mileage. OTOH, I don't need to downshift to pass people on the highway, it's right in the heart of the torque band.

i know and i will but i was just wondering for if i do not like it i was just wondering how much it would cost to do a swap and how hard it would be it's just a question i don't plan on swapping it before i drive it by any means but in the future if i plan on doing it i was just asking in advance. thanks for the info.

I don't think that the swap is that hard, but I don't know why anyone would want to swap the tranny out unless they just didn't like it. For a daily driver it is fine. I don't recall seeing unusually high reports of the Getrag dying. Upgrade the clutch (as you'd end up doing with the MTX75 anyway to hold more power) and you have a plenty reliable close ratio transmission. I think there are more than a few people on FJ running over 300 hp on the Getrag without issue.

 

Thanks that definetly answered my question as you guys always do. thanks for the info.

 

FocusSalvage does the Getrag6spd to MTX-75 5spd conversions. check their site.

 

Along with what TXFO said lets put it this way what does the RS use??? nuff said

 

Along with what TXFO said lets put it this way what does the RS use??? nuff said

...which also has a sweet close-ratio gearset.

 

The MTX-75 would be a 100 times better if it didn't have soft brass synchros that get worn out, and break.

 

Along with what TXFO said lets put it this way what does the RS use??? nuff said

Regarding the RS:

Power to the front wheels is through a heavy duty AP Racing clutch coupled to a revised and uprated version of the 5-speed MTX75 transmission.

Source: Ford

Yeah it's a MTX75. No, it's not the same one you'd get from a donor focus in the states.

I still stand by the Getrag 285 transmission and I see no good reason for swapping it out unless you were hardcore and/or just wanted the MTX75.

Both transmissions are good and most people will be fine with the one that came in the car from the factory.

 

if you every plan on forced induction then keep the getrag. The close ratios help keep you in boost all the time whether up or down shifting.

 

The MTX-75 would be a 100 times better if it didn't have soft brass synchros that get worn out, and break.

I suppose, but 112k and mine still shifts grind free.

I agree that there really isn't a good reason to replace a Getrag unless you really want an MTX-75. If I had an SVT, I'd leave the Getrag.

 

Here is very infomative post from Hal.

I replaced my stock clutch at 90k (still had another 10-20k left i'm guessing) with the ford tsb updated one.

Other than the extra tall 1st gear, I'd take a getrag anyday over the mtx75. I would agree replacement getrag's are harder to find and more expensive.

Since your rate of acceleration is highest at the Torque Peak for any engine, you want to keep the engine close to the RPM where the Torque Peak occurs. The way to do this is to determine the number of RPM that the motor drops on each upshift (watch the tach as you upshift). It will be different for each upshift.

Then figure your shift point as being 50% of the drop above the Torque Peak RPM. That will keep the engine centered on the Torque Peak as much as possible. Some cars where the Torque drops off rapidly after the peak work better with a shift point of 30% of the drop above the Torque Peak RPM.

Now for the Transmission part. The gears are a Torque multiplier. Therefore, the higher the drive ratio the more rapidly you will accelerate.

The final drive ratio (gear ratio X differential ratio) for the two transmissions are:

MTX-75 with 4.06 diff
1st - 14.902
2nd - 8.688
3rd - 5.887
4th - 4.181
5th - 3.126

GETRAG
1st - 12.789
2nd - 7.793
3rd - 5.651
4th - 4.615
5th - 3.828
6th - 3.126

Looking at the final drive ratios you will see that the car will accelerate more rapidly in 1st thru 3rd gear with the MTX-75/4.06 than the GETRAG. After that the GETRAG is better for 4th and 5th.

Another important point to consider, especially if the engine has a peaky torque curve rather than a fairly flat one, is the drop between gears.

Drop between gears for the two transmissions:

MTX-75 with 4.06 diff
1st / 2nd - 6.214
2nd / 3rd - 2.801
3rd / 4th - 1.706
4th / 5th - 1.055

GETRAG
1st / 2nd - 4.996
2nd / 3rd - 2.142
3rd / 4th - 1.036
4th / 5th - 0.337
5th / 6th - 0.702

The GETRAG has smaller drops between each gear which will make it easier to keep the engine at or near the Torque Peak. To me this makes the GETRAG a better road racing transmission unless you are on a very tight course where the greater acceleration rate of the MTX-75 in the lower gears would be useful.

Side Note: To find the speed of the car at any particular RPM in any gear use this formula.

((RPM/Final Drive Ratio) /833.6) X 60 = Speed in MPH.

The 833.6 is the approximate revolutions per mile of the tire for most of the sizes used on a Focus and the 60 is 60 min in an hour.

As for the statement about raising Horsepower by changing the final drive ratio. Since Horsepower = Amount of work(torque) done over time, changing to a lower gear ratio will allow the same amount of work to be done over a shorter period of time. So it will increase the horsepower.

 

Im glad this thread got bumped back up, it was a good read and saved me the trouble of not reading due to being too lazy to search

 

It seems to me that it is hard on a transaxle if a person shifts very quickly. Yes, MTX75's do have soft synchro's -- so you have to go easy on them. However, the repair costs on the MTX75 are, perhaps, reasonable -- and here's the kicker: I don't believe anyone has been able to source any internal parts for the MT285 Getrag. Only seals and half-shafts (the latter not really being part of the transaxle). A full suite of parts are, by comparison, available for the MTX75.

A Rebuilt-thru-Ford Getrag MT285 costs $6000 here in Canada, with a $1400 core charge added-on. Our Canadian dollar trades (currently) at a higher value than the Greenback ($US1.02 = $CDN1.00) -- so I expect the cost is the same in the US - i.e. very HIGH.

Lastly, folks, we have THE source of MTX75 prowess, here in North America -- in Haines Motor Sports. Renewal of the synchros on the MTX75 requires a hydraulic press and requires heating the gears. Haines can do it without a torch, without damaging the gear faces / hardening. Also, measuring end-play of bearings for the two shafts, when bearings are replaced. The necessary jig, to measure the output shaft, particularly. Also HMS upgrades the shifter mechanisms, with a superior-to-stock design. Finally, if folks are considering an ATB or Torsen differential, then set-up of the roller bearings / axial clearance is a necessity. Not to be done by gosh or golly. A special jig is required to axially load the diff, to enable measuring.

I would never consider buying a transaxle, particularly buying the vehicle used, if a full grouping of repair parts were not available, and if a clear specialist were not out there.... Such is the MT285. Guys, you need to baby those transaxles!

 

Correct on all counts..We build std & custom MTX75 units for Forcus,Contour,Cougar and X Type Jag and have also built specials for Noble's and a V8 Aerial 'Atom' etc etc...Terry Haines,HMS Inc

 

As an add on to the last two posts,we have,over many years working on the MTX75,made up our own custom tools (apart from the Ford tools) which make the jobe of removing and refitting the shrunk on gears(5th on input shaft & 3rd/4th on the output) a lot easier...FWIW for the DIY guys...NEVER EVER use a bare FLME to heat these gears...We use 'fire & ice'..working on these but not bare flames..you can ruin the hardness etc...Along with that we also have our own custom press plates to remove these gears and a 35 ton press...Don't try and mess with blockers & syncros unless you have the correct tools or a good shop that has experience with the MTX75..Over the past 10 years we have done over 1000 custom builds...