I would do the flywheel. no one has dyno sheets yet of the t-body and I personally would like to read more posts about reviews and also see if the product may have issues like the ORP did.
I could be wrong, but isn't it best to replace the clutch and flywheel at the same time? the flywheel thread that is going on someone mentioned about the design of the clutch and it working specifically for the dual mass flywheel. Hell if I know, but the swap may run more than just the flywheel. Also though, take into consideration install fees if you aren't doing it yourself.
I will be doing the installation with my cousin, he is a mechanic, so I´m not worried about the installation fee, as for the cluth I will wait for mine to brake, because It will be like another $500 for a good clutch. I read that you can install the FS Flywheel with the original clutch, the only thing is that you have noises from the gears (I´m right?) I also read that the dual flywheel it´s to heavy for our clutch, so do you thing the aluminium flywheel will put less stress on the clutch?
If you are going to go to the trouble to install the FS flywheel wait until you have the money and do the clutch at the same time. The aluminum flywheel will not help or hurt the life of the clutch if you understand the dynamics of what is going on.
The lighter flywheel will allow the engine to accelerate faster (quicker throttle responce) but will carry less kinnetic energy (stored energy) so it will take you some time to get used to taking off from a start again. When you step on the gas it revs further before you start to engage the clutch but if you dump the clutch the engine is more likley to bog. So you will slip the clutch more at a higher rpm until you get used to it. = MORE CLUTCH WEAR. It is easy to get used to but it will take a little time (lots of fun on a steep hill with someone right behind you at a light)
If you don't have a hoist and air tools plan on it taking 6 hours or so. Make sure you read up on the job in the shop manual before you start, it is not very straight forward (for instance you have to REMOVE THE FRONT CROSSMEMBER) It took me 4.5 hours on a hoist with air tools and I figured out a couple of short cuts (fabricated a holding fixture for the crossmember so I did not have to completly remove it for one) IF you are going to do this in your garage on jack stands make sure you have a second set of stands and a real floor jack to support the engine when the trans is out. Believe me you only want to do this once!