Ford Focus Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Came home from work today and decided I would re-hookup the J&S as per the original instructions. All I had to do was hook up ONE WIRE, since it was blistering hot outside I decide to pull my tractor out of the garage and back the Focus in so I could have alittle shade.

I pull the tractor out, but I left the front loader attachment inside since it was already off and just scooted it up out of the way. As I'm backing into the garage a co-worker drives by and honks the horn so I look up for a second and politely wave.

Before I get my hand down I hear a thud, followed by the car abruptly slowing down and the sound of thick metal sliding slowly across concrete. I backed into the #$%@% front end loader off my tractor


So I exit the car to look, a nice scratch on the plastic bumper. I think WHEW thats all, then I notice a scratch on the hatch down to the metal
I think "thats not TOO bad I can fix it"

As I stand there I look over to the passengers side and see another scratch.... about an INCH WIDE and 3-4 INCHES LONG
OH did I mention it was in a DENT


SO after dropping several F- BOMBS I hook up the J&S, knock on the engine, it LIGHTS UPS this time and it actually retards the timing


SO I take it for a test drive, and I'm driving up the road and its showing NO knock, at all. This is with the sensitivity turned up all the way. I put the J&S gauge where I can see it, take off down the road, get into boost and at 10psi around 6k I see one light, only one light. I do this a couple more times just to make sure, and the same thing happens just 1 light on the gauge so I'm thinking "cool" John at J&S told me that sometimes this does occure and you actually have a quiet engine.

I decide to do one last stent down the road, just to make sure. Around 10-11psi the car feels like the timing is being pulled, but no lights on the gauge or the unit itself. So I check the gauge plug in, everything is fine. I pull back out, ease into boost this time around 10psi it starts retarding timing. I go again this time around 9psi it pulls timing.

I think "AHA, the boost retard is hooked up" so I unplug the vacuum line and start for home, well around 7-8psi it starts AGAIN, feels just like it pulling alot of timing. So I pull over turn off the car unplug the J&S completely.... I was thinking that it maybe messing up, due to timing being pulled with no lights showing anywhere and the boost retard unplugged and capped off.

As I pull out and head for home I get into 4th gear ease into the boost and it feels like its pulling timing around 6psi. By now I'm thinking "BULLCRAP" this is NOT right


Then it hits me..... I've seen this before. I get home, pop the hood and low and behold.... a nice 8 inch long crack in my aluminum intake right in the weld

The crack isn't wide at all, but when you start boosting it must be opening up causing the missing condition. This is the second time its cracked as most of you know, the welding on it is real nice, and the aluminum isn't real thin. I believe its just the stress of boost on it making it flex and crack. I'll be sending it back again tommorrow for further study and repair, this time there will be more bracing added to help eliminate the flex.

Guess thats one of the downsides of having experimental parts on you car
 

·
TEAM Sponsor
Joined
·
805 Posts
I feel your pain man. I was in N. Carolina with a friend and i came outta the hotel and someone had put a large door dent on my STi. I wanted to kill someone. So i just got that fixed. I came outta Target on Sunday and noticed someone dented it AGAIN on the other side with their door. It's not that bad, but still....WTF?!?!?!? Dents piss me off.
 

·
Krunktronik Tuner Goblin
Joined
·
3,346 Posts
Your about to the point where you sell the car and buy a factory boosted already kick ass car (SRT4 anyone?).

I've seen it happen to many of my friends. They just get fed up with the [censored].
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Your about to the point where you sell the car and buy a factory boosted already kick ass car (SRT4 anyone?).

I've seen it happen to many of my friends. They just get fed up with the [censored].
I'm aggrevated, not retarded.

Besides this thing is paid for in full, I bought it brand new, that includes over $15,000 in mods (if not more)


This is just a daily driver, I drive it to work, the store, everywhere. If I wanted some with more power I'd just put a Vortec on my GT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
honestly if i were you i would ditch that intake manifold. it seems you have been having a lot of problems with it, that in turn, cause other problems. just my opinion, but it sounds like poor quality. sorry to hear about your car other than that.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,246 Posts
Experimental parts can cause trouble. Has nothing to do with quality!

edit-

btw, you sound like me. I have had some headaches here and there with my car, but when it comes down to it I don't plan on getting rid of it for a long long time. I absolutely LOVE my car. It feels great that everything but the suspension and wheels has been done by yours truly.

Before this car I'd never done anything beyond changing the oil on a car...have some mechanical experience but on the 2stroke two wheel variety


For some people, the end result is their goal...For me, it's the time spent getting there which is the truly fun part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Where did you get the manifold from and have you got any pictures of it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,615 Posts
Can you take photos of the manifold, I’m not sure putting 10psi in to it would make it crack. My guess could be ether vibration, thermal expansion. Is the manifold braced to the engine block in any way, as for the thermal part you have a nice cool air on the inside and hot on the out side you could be getting some weird expansion and contraction in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
777 Posts
I'm right there with you, nothign seems to work out, and when it does, sopmething COMPLETELY different goes wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
We think its just to thin, from what I heard the manifold will probaly be re made out of thicker aluminum.

When sitting in neutral with the hood open you can rev it up by hand and see the intake swell with the flow of air. everytime you hit the gas it swells up then back down and over time its causing stress cracks. The new version should be thicker and well braced.

That and I also put 13psi through it, used to be 15-17psi but I turned it down.
 

·
TEAM Sponsor
Joined
·
805 Posts
It should be a MIN 1/8" wall thickness for boost. We had an issue with cracking on Chibullsan's custom intake mani, but that had an M62 mounted on it and it hit the firewall once. Not a good combo for and aluminum intake mani.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
77, i know experimental parts can break, but usually you fix stuff after, and make it better. if its made correctly it shouldnt break, even if its experimental. especially something as simple as an intake manifold. but what do i know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The biggest thing is the manifold was designed to be on a NA car, not boosted. Since on NA cars it would have been under vaccum then the thinner aluminum would have worked.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top