Maybe I should say it's like the fuel rail / pump is shutting off when that happens. I'd appreciate any help or suggestions, as now I officially have 190 miles till the warranty is up.
WTF?
Ok.. stick with me here. I'm driving to work this morning, and I'm about to hit the on ramp, and decide to pass one more car in 2nd. I'm at about 5k, and WHAM- feels like I hit the rev limiter. I looked down, and I hadn't crossed 5.5k. Thought to myself how weird that was, so, I shifted in to 3rd and took it easy on to the freeway to see what's really going on. Cruising at 70-75 on the freeway in 6th at ~3000, and same thing - can't accelerate, CEL, fuel light, and battery light come on, all gauges go dead except speed for one second, then everything comes back on like normal. If I maintain an engine speed about about ~2800 or higher, this continues to happen at 20-60 second intervals. It does NOT happen if continue changing gears, or pushing the clutch in, drop the revs, bring them back up, then let out the clutch. Just happened today, and I received my car back from the dealer Wednesday, so this didn't happen at all yesterday.
They did flash the ECU to the YRF0.
First thing I did when I got to work 15 minutes later is check the fuel cap, which being loose shouldn't cause the engine to attempt to shutoff, but was secure (I never tried before, but the weird thing is I can take the cap off without pushing down before turning now). As of Wednesday, there were no exhaust leaks, and the o2 sensors are secure. The ONLY thing that has changed since I received the car from the dealer was the breather filter I put on the hose, and my CAI. I DID notice, however, that I missed one of the two screws on the MAF that secures it to the intake pipe.
Could any of these things actually be causing my problem, or is it something totally different? (or has no one ever heard of such a problem?)
Thanks---
They did flash the ECU to the YRF0.
First thing I did when I got to work 15 minutes later is check the fuel cap, which being loose shouldn't cause the engine to attempt to shutoff, but was secure (I never tried before, but the weird thing is I can take the cap off without pushing down before turning now). As of Wednesday, there were no exhaust leaks, and the o2 sensors are secure. The ONLY thing that has changed since I received the car from the dealer was the breather filter I put on the hose, and my CAI. I DID notice, however, that I missed one of the two screws on the MAF that secures it to the intake pipe.
Could any of these things actually be causing my problem, or is it something totally different? (or has no one ever heard of such a problem?)
Thanks---
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Sorry I can't be of help to you, but this is the kind of crap that worries me about the SVTF.
SOOOO much can go wrong (complex, convoluted design), that I fear the day my warranty ends.
Used to be that I could expect a car to have maybe a couple of small issues needing resolved when young, and then... a good solid ride to about 120k miles before starting to need repairs.
But, no more (certainly not with this car).
SOOOO much can go wrong (complex, convoluted design), that I fear the day my warranty ends.
Used to be that I could expect a car to have maybe a couple of small issues needing resolved when young, and then... a good solid ride to about 120k miles before starting to need repairs.
But, no more (certainly not with this car).
Never heard this one before! I would get thee hence back to the dealer to pull some codes. You can guess at it endlessly. The OBDII Gods should get you going in the right direction.
~Dave
~Dave
Geez... this is going to be tough, I have to work all weekend and drive 35 miles each way, with less than 200 miles to go. Guess I'm gonna have to work some magic or something.
I would make sure that the incident is documented with the dealer, in general, if they know the car is below warranty mileage and they are made aware of the problem, it existed before the warranty expired, and they should fix it accordingly. Also, you just had the YRFO done, so that repair, modification in itself should carry its own warranty.
New update - It happens at ALL engine speeds, in or out of gear.I would make sure that the incident is documented with the dealer, in general, if they know the car is below warranty mileage and they are made aware of the problem, it existed before the warranty expired, and they should fix it accordingly. Also, you just had the YRFO done, so that repair, modification in itself should carry its own warranty.
For anyone with an intake, you'll know what I mean when I say this: Immediately after the problem happens, the engine brings the revs back up to the warm-up range, ~1500 rpms. 10 - 15 seconds after that, they drop to the normal idle range of 850. It's like the ECU thinks I'm just starting the engine. It's resetting or something. I don't know how to better explain it, but I'm calling my dealer shortly.
soooo much can go wrong with the SVTF???
our cars are like the original Volkswagen Beetle compared to the latest Mercedes Benz or BMW cars..
our cars are like the original Volkswagen Beetle compared to the latest Mercedes Benz or BMW cars..
Well Nalar, you don't have to worry about needing a car at least... Remember, they give you a LOANER, WASH, and VACUUM. =) And to save miles, you could even tow it there, as long as it's under 36months/36k miles, Ford will foot the bill.
2 theories...
1) missing screw on maf, so it's loose..causing erronous reading
...did you replace screw? I think it's a #20 torx
2) somethings whacked on your ecu
I'd put money on 1, unless you replaced screw already.
If you did then ecu will need several on/off cycles to "learn' behaviours.
Keep us posted and you do get a loaner! so take advantage of it.
1) missing screw on maf, so it's loose..causing erronous reading
...did you replace screw? I think it's a #20 torx
2) somethings whacked on your ecu
I'd put money on 1, unless you replaced screw already.
If you did then ecu will need several on/off cycles to "learn' behaviours.
Keep us posted and you do get a loaner! so take advantage of it.
I have an appointment at 3:50 on Monday... at 35,880 right now, so I'm driving an Escape my father doesn't need currently. Well, I've actually come to believe it's more of an ECU/electronic issue, because after driving it home, it happens regardless of engine speed, regardless whether it's in gear or not. Also, if the revs are over 1500 while it's in gear, the engine/fuel system won't begin operating again until I DEPRESS THE CLUTCH, or just wait 8-10 seconds. I'm telling you, it sounds like the ECU or something. The best metaphor I can create is like this - It's like you're hitting the reset button on your old computer; some of the fans stop, and the system halts until you release the button. It's like the computer in the car forgets the engine is running and starts the normal startup/warmup process (all of you with the intake would know what I mean, because when you first start your car, the engine makes a LOT of noise, like it's pulling more air than normally necessary, trying to heat the engine quicker or whatever).2 theories...
1) missing screw on maf, so it's loose..causing erronous reading
...did you replace screw? I think it's a #20 torx
2) somethings whacked on your ecu
I'd put money on 1, unless you replaced screw already.
If you did then ecu will need several on/off cycles to "learn' behaviours.
Keep us posted and you do get a loaner! so take advantage of it.
Did you replace the missing screw? YES=ecu theory, NO=MAF theory.
You mention in the metaphor about air...definitely relates to MAF
New theory: MAF got dinged while loose. Instructions on AEM are quite clear about being careful when you reinstall.
Glad to hear about the appointment, perhaps it would be discreet NOT to mention missing screw when you take it in.
You mention in the metaphor about air...definitely relates to MAF
New theory: MAF got dinged while loose. Instructions on AEM are quite clear about being careful when you reinstall.
Glad to hear about the appointment, perhaps it would be discreet NOT to mention missing screw when you take it in.
Right, but it's not exactly loose, and it was never 'dinged' or mishandled. It continued doing the same thing after disconnecting the battery, then securing the end without the screw against the intake, and reconnecting the battery and retrying. Regardless, I'll be testing it out again tonight or tomorrow with a replacement holding it in.
I got a AEM CAI for my 02 SVT focus, I was driving down the road the day after i got it and it started raining and the next thing I couldn't rev past 5,000RMPs and then it just dies. So i tried the old trick of pulling the spark plugs and didn't get anything out. so like a little baby i ran home got my original intake put it on and called ford. after sitting there for 2 hours they said "oh it just started for us. SO What do I do,I'm scared to just this Intake again, it kinda sounds like the same thing that happen to you.
magnus6677,
I've driven through all sorts of rain (it rained a LOT in Maryland this year). I've even driven through 4 to 6 inches of floodwater (but very very slowly and carefully).
Anyhow, I had the AEM CAI on all that time, and there was never a problem. Took it off this fall and inspected MAF, TB and intake piping and they were clean as a whistle. Ran my finger across TB and piping surfaces, and there was not a specK of dust, dirt or oil.
These low-slung CAI are only dangerous when the filter gets submerged. I think the stock mounting loction is very reasonable considering what they had to work with (space wise) in the engine bay.
My troubles were happening even when the car was bone stock.
I've driven through all sorts of rain (it rained a LOT in Maryland this year). I've even driven through 4 to 6 inches of floodwater (but very very slowly and carefully).
Anyhow, I had the AEM CAI on all that time, and there was never a problem. Took it off this fall and inspected MAF, TB and intake piping and they were clean as a whistle. Ran my finger across TB and piping surfaces, and there was not a specK of dust, dirt or oil.
These low-slung CAI are only dangerous when the filter gets submerged. I think the stock mounting loction is very reasonable considering what they had to work with (space wise) in the engine bay.
My troubles were happening even when the car was bone stock.
Starting hasn't been a problem, it runs, and is drivable, but certainly -not- drivable if you know what I mean. It's not the CAI, but I'll just let the dealer take a look.I got a AEM CAI for my 02 SVT focus, I was driving down the road the day after i got it and it started raining and the next thing I couldn't rev past 5,000RMPs and then it just dies. So i tried the old trick of pulling the spark plugs and didn't get anything out. so like a little baby i ran home got my original intake put it on and called ford. after sitting there for 2 hours they said "oh it just started for us. SO What do I do,I'm scared to just this Intake again, it kinda sounds like the same thing that happen to you.
Yes, indeed, soooo much.soooo much can go wrong with the SVTF???
our cars are like the original Volkswagen Beetle compared to the latest Mercedes Benz or BMW cars..
Lots of cheap finicky parts mixed in with a few good ones make sure you will be in for warranty work plenty with this car.
If you haven't experienced that yet, then be patient, your turn will come. Just so happens mine started early.
In the past, I needed warranty work for only 2 issues out of 3 new cars (1 for a Jap car, and 1 for a Ford). This SVTF has needed over a dozen things fixed before it hit the 10K mile mark. None of them were broken from abuse, they just failed because they were prone to it.
K, resolution:
Before taking it to the dealer to have them look at that and the CD changer, I disconnected the battery... for 20 minutes.
Hasn't happened since.
...
Best I can figure out is that when I pulled the wires off the battery the day before so I could manipulate the intake a little, the battery was disconnected only long enough to partially reset some of the components that require power to support the memory (maybe 2 minutes tops). It was enough to reset the clock/radio, but I noticed the trip odometer was NOT reset. 18 miles later, the above phenomenon occurred. I don't know how the memory in the ECU works, but is it possible that it could have been temporarily corrupted by the battery being off for a short period of time? Regardless, it's working fine now.
Note to self- If I take the battery off, LEAVE it off for at least 10 minutes.
BTW - The dealer ended up replacing the 9006, and while the display seems slightly different, I'm pretty sure it's not the MP3 compatible version (unless you have to do something different from placing the files at the root of the CD).
Before taking it to the dealer to have them look at that and the CD changer, I disconnected the battery... for 20 minutes.
Hasn't happened since.
...
Best I can figure out is that when I pulled the wires off the battery the day before so I could manipulate the intake a little, the battery was disconnected only long enough to partially reset some of the components that require power to support the memory (maybe 2 minutes tops). It was enough to reset the clock/radio, but I noticed the trip odometer was NOT reset. 18 miles later, the above phenomenon occurred. I don't know how the memory in the ECU works, but is it possible that it could have been temporarily corrupted by the battery being off for a short period of time? Regardless, it's working fine now.
Note to self- If I take the battery off, LEAVE it off for at least 10 minutes.
BTW - The dealer ended up replacing the 9006, and while the display seems slightly different, I'm pretty sure it's not the MP3 compatible version (unless you have to do something different from placing the files at the root of the CD).
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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