1) The focus engine would be easiest. Exact same rear tranny mount, driverside mount looks like its the same, pass. side mount is totaly different.

2) No idea about the ECU.

3)Yes.

4) The duratec and zetec use different bellhousings and a different passenger side motormount. Swap should be about same as a SVT swap. ie. get the motor/transaxle/ecu all together for pretty simple drop in.


I hope...

 

This is from our FAQ we are working on:

Can't I just swap a Duratec into my Zetec engine bay?
Provided by blueovalbaboon:
While a duratec will swap into a zetec engine bay, you should be prepared for some work. The motor mounts will have to be welded on as they are in a different location from the zetec. The duratec's computer uses a different ECU and an entirely new way of communicating from the old EEC-V. This means that the wiring harness and the ECU will have to be changed.

While the duratec should bolt up relatively easily to the zetec transmissions, I would caution against using a zetec automatic transmission. The duratec ATX, while part of the same family, uses stronger clutches and an improved torque convertor. It is a more heavy duty unit although probably still not too happy with any appreciable amount of performance modification.

I think we should continue this discussion, and I can add whatever information we find to make the FAQ complete in the 'duratec swap' section.

 

This is what was done on Andrew Gillis' race car, Pectel and all.

 

Look back a few months in this forum. I posted the swap info a while ago. You really need a donor car to keep things from getting expensive, hoses, wiring, alternator and such add up fast. The transaxle internals are interchangable, but the cases are not, and a new case is over $500. The only mount that is different is the passenger side, but loking at it closely, you could mod the Zetec mount slightly. Also, you can ditch the coil on plug in favor of wasted spark coil pack if you want to keep your EEC-V. The Pectel T2 would only run it if you mod the Zetec harness and ditch the COP. You will need to fab a fuel line too.

The Mazda engines would not be a good choice, because you would have no way to control the VVT really.

 

If I can find a body for the swap I'll play guinea pig and whip up a really detailed how-to. It's just finding a shell for under $3k has proven damn near impossible thus far.

 

I'm thinking 2.0L Duratec, so it could be prepped to Group 2 rules.

Sorry for the quasi-hijack Rob, but are you talking G2 SCCA rally? If so, you can go all the way up to 2.4L (like, for instance, the 2.3 Duratec)...which is nice...

</don't know the rules up north>

 

Hi,

Noobie here, I have a new PZEV and notice that no one has mentioned that the intake and exhaust manifolds are reversed, on the PZEV the intake manifold is up front and exhaust in the back. What is the reason for this and will it cause any problems for the swappers?

...Ed

 

Look back a few months in this forum. I posted the swap info a while ago. You really need a donor car to keep things from getting expensive, hoses, wiring, alternator and such add up fast. The transaxle internals are interchangable, but the cases are not, and a new case is over $500. The only mount that is different is the passenger side, but loking at it closely, you could mod the Zetec mount slightly. Also, you can ditch the coil on plug in favor of wasted spark coil pack if you want to keep your EEC-V. The Pectel T2 would only run it if you mod the Zetec harness and ditch the COP. You will need to fab a fuel line too.

The Mazda engines would not be a good choice, because you would have no way to control the VVT really.

could a custom SCT tune help?

 

Hi,

Noobie here, I have a new PZEV and notice that no one has mentioned that the intake and exhaust manifolds are reversed, on the PZEV the intake manifold is up front and exhaust in the back. What is the reason for this and will it cause any problems for the swappers?

...Ed

not a damn one.












I hope.

 

The Air Force Reserve Focus has a built 2.3 in a hatchback 05 body. They turned the engine BACK around so that it faces the same way as the ZETEC.

Frankly I don't see why anyone would want to do this swap, I mean to go through all the trouble of swapping an engine that doesn't drop in easily, and only swap in a 2.3 Duratec?? It doesn't make sense to me.

 

Frankly I don't see why anyone would want to do this swap, I mean to go through all the trouble of swapping an engine that doesn't drop in easily, and only swap in a 2.3 Duratec?? It doesn't make sense to me.

Right! As soon as I wear this thing out, I contemplate a Kugel V-8 kit! (If they're still around)

...Ed... PS. Anyone know why the head is "backwards"?

 

Anyone know why the head is "backwards"?

It's not backwards. They finally made it the right way, in through the front, out through the back. And if you don't think it's the right way then answer this: Why does the exhaust come out the back of a car? (Disclaimer: In most cases.)

 

Anyone know why the head is "backwards"?

It's not backwards. They finally made it the right way, in through the front, out through the back. And if you don't think it's the right way then answer this: Why does the exhaust come out the back of a car? (Disclaimer: In most cases.)

Because gas fumes would/could enter the car if it wasn't.

 

Right! As soon as I wear this thing out, I contemplate a Kugel V-8 kit! (If they're still around)

Oh PLEASE don't get started on stupid engine swaps.

Sounds like this swap is probably more trouble than it's worth. Anybody know the weight delta between a Zetec and a 2.0L Duratec?

Sounds like an SVT swap would be a better idea, easier, and it's already mildly "built". Weight I gotta think would be 50lbs extra, at most, right?

 

Right! As soon as I wear this thing out, I contemplate a Kugel V-8 kit! (If they're still around)

Oh PLEASE don't get started on stupid engine swaps.

Sounds like this swap is probably more trouble than it's worth. Anybody know the weight delta between a Zetec and a 2.0L Duratec?

Sounds like an SVT swap would be a better idea, easier, and it's already mildly "built". Weight I gotta think would be 50lbs extra, at most, right?

The Duratec is 40lbs lighter than the Zetec.

 

Frankly I don't see why anyone would want to do this swap, I mean to go through all the trouble of swapping an engine that doesn't drop in easily, and only swap in a 2.3 Duratec?? It doesn't make sense to me.

Right! As soon as I wear this thing out, I contemplate a Kugel V-8 kit! (If they're still around)

...Ed... PS. Anyone know why the head is "backwards"?

Because not all of us have that kind of cash lying around. Until I finish school, it'll be a whole year's pay in order to do a V-8 swap. This will allow me not to fix my totalled car and I still get my duratec...for others maybe not a good idea but I'm going to do it anyway since I've got the time and a shop to do it in with any tool I'll need.

 

The Duratec is 40lbs lighter than the Zetec.

The extra time and money could be much better spent than saving 40 lbs. I know that there are other advantages to the Duratec, but if you already have a Zetec and have to stay at a 2.0 (which Rob does), then IMO, don't bother. Of course, the smart thing to do is start with a Duratec, but for most of us, that ship has sailed.

 

Trade in for a 2005.

 

y go thru all that...yeh u could say u did it, but 4 all that. idk...

-Ult

 

Trade in for a 2005

Because the car is almost paid off, and has something stupid like 1000 hours of blood sweat and tear in it already.

Was thinking about the electronics a bit more. The Pectel harness terminates a pre 2003 (or whenever it changed) chassis to powertain 16 pin plug. This wouldn't interface with the Duratec plug.

Could I take an early Zetec harness, and hack it up to fit a Duratec? Convert to coil pack from a Zetec.

The big thing would be, are the crank sensor and cam phase sensor the same as Zetec? If not, I'm not sure I could get the Pectel to run it.

 

Go with a stinger stand alone. for about 1300 you get a flying loom kit and everything you need to take advantage of the coil on ignition in the duratec. It accepts ALL crank triggering and camshaft triggering. It is a map conversion but thats nothing, using a vacuum line if you have too. People who say just buy another car arnt looking at the whole picture. you should be able to do the swap W/standalone for under 2500 for this price. which is competitive since most F/I people go standalone anyways AND you get .3 liters of displacement AND an aluminium lightwieght block AND a better flowing head AND a more durable engine. Why wouldnt you do a swap. Its a givin if your going deep into power territory anyways.


Edit: I just looked up the parts on car-parts.com and you can get a engine/transmission for 1100 or so plus shipping so probably 1300 if you negotiated id IMAGINE you could get it shipped to you for a 1100 even just guessing because your buying alot of parts at once.

Now if your someone who has blown your zetec anyways and want to go F/I down the road this should bea givin. Or you cann also go 3.0L V6 swap for 600 dollars less but the passenger side mount has to be hacked pretty badly. Upside your putting down 170 whp and 170 whtq all stock with a very safe 7500RPM rev limit. With the tuning of a powerful standalone you would probably be sitting more at 180-190 of each as well. Add cams and bolt ons for 300 all motor reliable horsepower

With calculations saying 370whp is possible giving the heads and bottem end were devolped by porsche and sold to ford. The flow numbers are just rediculous on the v6.. Just think...for the amount most people pay for a forced induction zetec pushing 300. You can build an all motor engine for the same price and i gauruntee an allmotor beast like that would be faster then a forced one.

Not to mention 6 pistons of bling

 

so...

pretty much back to square 1?

Yes you can do it but it would make more sense to swap something better in?

 

The v6 swap is cheaper it keeps you fwd and it makes a hell of alot more power alot easier. You can get v6 3.0L engines for as little as 400 and contour 2.5L manual transmissions for around 300. so basically for 2000 your ready to bolt a turbo supercharger or nitrous on and tune it and leave 400 whp marks everywhere with more torque then a zetec could dream of. Not to mention the focus was originally fitted with a v6 but because of crash ratings ford didnt release it. SO there is no way anyone can tell me the v6 isnt going to fit easily. I think the only way you run into problems is if you try to deal with factory wiring. Rip it out drop the standalone in. The rest is easy. BTW the 3.0L and the 2.5L blocks are identicle the 3.0L has a larger bore but the same revability as the 2.5L bottem end because the stroke is the same. You can also buy BRAND NEW 3.0L short blocks from ford itself for 700 dollars if you want a new engine sitting in there.

 

I hear the latest thing is to swap 2.5 heads onto the 3.0 to get some really nice power.

 

Why would you go to the time and effort to put a heavy V6 in the Focus when the potential for 300whp ultimately lies in the much lighter I4. A running Duratec could be installed in a running Zetec car in less than two days time. There is no need for an expensive harness and stand alone, the EEC-V is more than capable with a good re-tune.