Sweeeet. Great turbo choice, heh....350whp isn't a problem in the slightest. That turbo *wants* to push out that much. Combined with the race mani, FRPP manifold and TB, it will be effortless. Considering the 8:1 compression, I'm thinking ~22psi, which is fine, not overworking the turbo.

 

^^Thx! I'm watching your thread closely to see what kind of powa you put down!

Right now I have the 14psi springs installed (one 8psi and one 6psi). I'm going to pick up some other WG springs so I can go higher.

 

No boost controller? Doesn't seem like you're on a budget. I recommend the Greddy Type-S along with the steering wheel-mounted button. Run 15 - 20psi in the corners, hit the button to go up to 30psi on the straight and absolutely destroy all the egos of Porsches and such.

 

^^ No budget? lol, I wish.

I've been on the fence about a boost controller, especially in a road race application. I'm not sure how easy it would be to switch 'modes' while trying to concentrate on the proper line through a corner.

 

No that's the thing....you go through the entire corner on low boost and when you are perfectly straight, you hit the big button. Only for big straights where you can shift you attention. When John would hit his button and jump from 12 to 20 psi it was awesome.

 

sweet build looks like its gonna be a beast ill be watching

 

Subscribed!

 

 

^^ :lol: I was wondering if any NC'ers would catch that. Go Pirates!

 

:lol: @ top speed!

 

Well we seem to have a slight clearance issue between the manifold and the t-stat housing.

From that pic it doesn't look too bad, but once the coolant hose is installed there's only ~1/8" of clearance. Obviously my concern is that the heat from the manifold pipe will cause the coolant hose to burst and/or melt the crappy plastic t-stat housing. This would not be a good thing on the track.

So, my initial thought was to draw up something in AutoCAD and have a local machine shop fab it up. Something similiar to this:

But now I think I'll just get a 3/4"-1" thick piece of aluminum and use it as a spacer. It should be relatively cheap and easy, just cut it to the proper shape and drill the necessary holes. The standard t-stat housing rubber gasket can be used between the housing and spacer and a paper gasket between the spacer and block.

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?

 

If there is clearance between the two, honestly you shouldn't have a problem, as long as its not touching. We have ran them for extended periods of time without have a problem with standard rubber radiator lines. Most of the time when you have things melt in an engine bay it is from contacting the manifold, not radiant heat from the manifold.

With that being said, I have never been fond of the stock thermostat housing. Something like this would be more ideal of course, also a spacer like you talk about would also help:

 

If there is clearance between the two, honestly you shouldn't have a problem, as long as its not touching. We have ran them for extended periods of time without have a problem with standard rubber radiator lines. Most of the time when you have things melt in an engine bay it is from contacting the manifold, not radiant heat from the manifold.

With that being said, I have never been fond of the stock thermostat housing. Something like this would be more ideal of course, also a spacer like you talk about would also help:

Thanks for the info. I agree that the radiant heat probably would not cause any issues, but I tend to over build everything since track time is so expensive. I think I'm going to space it out with some 6061 aluminum plate. Of course then I open myself up to another opportunity for a coolant leak.

I'm not a huge fan of the stock t-stat housing either. There are a couple active threads on that subject now, so hopefully something better will come out of those discussions. I like the HTP replacement unit but the price is too rich for my blood.

 

if the car is being build for the track why even bother running a t-stat?! it's not like you really need to worry about "warm-up" at the track, rather cooling!
i'd just build an outlet with no t-stat and call it a day!

Nice build so far!

 

if the car is being build for the track why even bother running a t-stat?! it's not like you really need to worry about "warm-up" at the track, rather cooling!
i'd just build an outlet with no t-stat and call it a day!

Nice build so far!

Thx! If I go without a t-stat would you suggest running some type of coolant flow restrictor disc to slow the coolant flow somewhat?

 

^^ very true

 

Bryan, you might notice who's old manifold that its is.


Dan, it's nice to see that you are starting on the build finally. I got the powerworks all up and running and found out that my o2 sensor was bad.

Oh as far as your boost controller. Look into the E-boost2 controller. It is very nice in its programmable to your needs. There are a few others they offer too. These were what i was looking into.

http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=42

 

Bryan, you might notice who's old manifold that its is.


Dan, it's nice to see that you are starting on the build finally. I got the powerworks all up and running and found out that my o2 sensor was bad.

Oh as far as your boost controller. Look into the E-boost2 controller. It is very nice in its programmable to your needs. There are a few others they offer too. These were what i was looking into.

[URL]http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=42[/URL]

Steven, Glad to know the PWSC is working well for you. I'm stoked to get this turbo kit up and going but I need to wait for my tax refund and bonus from work before purchasing any more parts and dropping the block off at the machine shop. Until then I'm just mocking up and making a list of everything I'll need. I'll check out the E-boost2, thx.

What about just swapping for the HTP thermostat housing?

http://forums.focaljet.com/htperformance/603157-htperformance-zetec-svt-st170-rs-thermostat-housing.html

Too much coin for me, plus it doesn't move the coolant hose any farther away from the manifold tube. I've been paying close attention to "Tousley Steve's" t-stat housing thread. Seems that he has found a better one piece unit from the Contour.

I wouldn't run without some sort of restriction like the thermostat. I've had problems in the past cooling cars after removing the thermostat.

I agree and was looking at the following. Now the question is which size restrictor to use.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-63440/

 

What about just swapping for the HTP thermostat housing?

http://forums.focaljet.com/htperfor...m/htperformance/603157-htperformance-zetec-svt-st170-rs-thermostat-housing.html

 

I wouldn't run without some sort of restriction like the thermostat. I've had problems in the past cooling cars after removing the thermostat.

 

Thermostats (or at least some restriction like a properly sized washer) is necessary to maintain a higher pressure inside the engine, and slow down the flow for increased heat transfer efficiency. Cooling ability is decreased when the tstat is removed.

Also, unless you never plan on driving in cold weather, I strongly suggest leaving a thermostat in. Stable coolant temps help fuel mileage, reliability, etc.

 

Seeing that this is a race car, I'm sure he only races it in season :thumbup:

 

Where I'm from, the 'season' is from February through December, with several of those days in the teens and twenties :thumbup:


And you could spray an intercooler with C02, which would not leak fluids on the track.

 

^^LOL, yeah it pushes like a biatch in the snow. :lol:

 

i agree to keeping the t-stat. u can have problems if u remov like said above. if it doesnt have time to stay in the rad it wont lose the heat and will overheat the motor.

 

once a Tstat is open, the WP is pretty much flowing coolant as fast as the engine will push it. removing a T-stat doesn't make a huge difference in the heat transfer in the rad only the heat absorption inside the block and head. ultimately you have built in restrictions in the system in the forms of the inlet and outlet on the block/head and of course the rad. adding in a restrictor somewhere can maked a difference.

the easiest thing to do is just remove it and see.
most race cars we run with up here have no Tstats and do not have issues with overheating due to lack of time in the engine or block

 

Dan, are you able to run a intercooler spray kit in the class you run in? If so, look into it cause it could help out a little bit.

 

With the exception of standard safety equipment/rules and having to run DOT-approved r-comp tires, my class is virtually unlimited. Since an intercooler sprayer has the opportunity to drop fluid on the track that might be an exception to the 'unlimited' rule. However, I have a Snow WMI kit that I'm planning on running for lower IATs. WMI should do equally as well, if not better, than an intercooler sprayer.

Speaking of intercoolers..... This past Saturday I found a Garrett 400hp intercooler on Craigslist, so I took a short drive and picked that puppy up. It was BRAND NEW and nearly half the cost of retail. That should help! :thumbup:

 

nice build u got goin here bro, but i got a question..

BY - Billet timing belt pulley from Gold Coast

U mean the guide/idler pulley correct?

 

nice build u got goin here bro, but i got a question..

BY - Billet timing belt pulley from Gold Coast

U mean the guide/idler pulley correct?

Thx. Yeah, I meant the billet guide pulley. :thumbup:

 

Those should be nice pistons and rods for the combination you're running. Both companies make quality components.

On the thermostat I'd probably run one if it were myself but before deciding what's best for your car you may want to consider the type and length of racing you'll be doing. Without a t-stat the car will probably take quite a bit longer to warm up which might not be a problem if you're doing some extended race intervals and can idle the car for extended periods at startup, but if the engine can't get up to temp quickly before racing it could accelerate wear, cause elevated oil pressure, etc. Also consider the engine management being used and how it will affect tuning if the temps run low.

 

On the t-stat subject..... My races are anywhere fron 20-45 minutes in length, so keeping heat in the engine isn't a problem at all. I also have the ability to let the car warm up sufficiently while on the false grid.

I dunno, I'm still on the fence about this one, as I see pros & cons in both directions. :dunno: